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New Guy From Missouri.


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#16 stubbysteve OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 10:17 PM

sacsr has nailed it on the head. the yoke is stuck and wont move. Is it cast or is it steel? I sprayed liquid wrench on it and soaked it down, but didnt know if it would break if I tapped on it with a alumin hammer or not ? sorry no pics as of yet fellas but they are going to be taken. I promise.


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#17 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 05:25 AM

99% sure it's all steel. There is a spring and steel ball inside the yoke that keeps tension on the shaft and stops it on the indentions on the shaft. If you have soaked it pretty well I would tap it with a steel hammer. Some times I take a long screw driver and use the leverage to move the yoke. Hope it turns out to be this simple of a fix!

Edited by sacsr, May 15, 2014 - 05:28 AM.


#18 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 06:15 PM

It is steel, my 7 was rusted right up.

#19 stubbysteve OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 01:52 PM

yep not going to be a simple fix. the yoke is stuck for sure. but the cluster gear is shot. the front 9 teeth are totally gone. Does anyone have one for sale and how much and do I have to pull the complete rearend to replace? I am assuming so. I took a pic of the yoke but cant get a good pic of the cluster gear. I have the pic on my cell phone but not sure how to get it here on the pc.



#20 stubbysteve OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 02:49 PM

also all I had to use was liquid wrench to spray on the yoke. the gear oil is way down ( about 3 inches) in the case. I know I am going to have to change it anyway but could I add some disel fuel and just fill the case back up and soak it that way or what would you all recomend? also the gear oil looks red, is it suposed to or should it be like 80-90 gear oil. thanks



#21 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 05:15 PM

The yoke Scott referred to is what I called the shifter fork.  Very common for them to freeze to the detent shaft.  Not sure on the red oil, but it's gonna need dumped & the entire unit cleaned out anyway, so put 80/90 back in.  I have no idea where you will find thwe gear.  Most of us have to find parts tractors to have spare parts, and getting parts from a collector sometimes is harder than pulling teeth from a worm.   The oil should be down in the case a ways, as the gears pick it up & toss it around to lube the upper end of things.  Sitting for long periods lets the top side rust since it isn't getting regular showers of oil.


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#22 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 07:56 PM

Daniel , I read the Steve's post earlier but had not had time to respond till now. But after seeing he needed a cluster gear,  I was thinking........could you take two cluster gears where the one of the two out side gears were good......cut them off and weld them together to make a good one?? Often the "bad" ones have 1 side that may be okay and the other side is ruined.....I suspect the 1st gear is the one usually ruined for the most part?? I realize it might not be as strong, but is it an option? I know you did this with a motorcycle gear I believe.

 

Steve, I got a lot of promises out there right now. I have a parts tractor with a cluster gear that looked to be about 95%. I will pick it up in the next two weeks. If you are still looking at that time let me know. Like Daniel said, cluster gears and ring gears are gold. We don't like parting with them, because we need spares for our own tractors. Will try to help the best I can.



#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 09:27 PM

Scott, I don't think there's any way to cut & weld from 2 gears due to needing perfect alignment of the shaft spline, plus the lack of enough space between the gears for an effective weld.  What I did was turn down the stripped gear, leaving the shaft spline area intact, then took a gear from a lawn tractor (or was it a motorcycle trans gear?, I forget) turned out it's center to a press-fit, then welded a fine bead. Not a gear I'd put a real load on, so I used the welded side for reverse, and baby it when backing.


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#24 stubbysteve OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 11:23 PM

ok olcowhand, what about doing the same as you did with the motorycle gear on the cluster gear? turn down where the teeth are stripped, and weld/braze another 9 tooth gear on it? or again can it be done? And again what about filling up the case with diesel fuel and letting the yoke soak in that to get it broke loose? again I know it has to be drained and refilled. Also what about the bits and pieces of the old gears? thats not something that will be able to go down the drain hole is it? or does the rearend need to be flipped over and everything come out the shifter hole? Again thanks fellas. As for the cluster gear sacsr I will definately still be looking for sure. let me know how much you need for it when you get to it. no biggie right now.


Edited by stubbysteve, May 16, 2014 - 11:27 PM.


#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 03:46 PM

Sorry I didn't see your last post.  The gear could be machined & another gear pressed on, then welded, but it's tedious & doubtful it would hole up against a real load.  I flipped mine so the welded/fabbed side would be reverse, and I baby it like crazy.  The gear teeth need to come out.  I'd say it's best to take everything apart for a real cleaning.  No telling how much nasty crud you'll find down deep inside.  It all ends up back at the differential, and could damage the ring gear.  Axle tubes need to come off for a good cleaning.



#26 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 06:12 PM

Ditto what Daniel said about deep cleaning. I "cleaned out" a rear transaxle today before I pulled it apart.......when I broke it down I was surprised how much sludge was still in it -from front to back it was still full of sludge on the bottom.......if you are having to do any work on the transaxle, just as well tear it down, deep clean it, then put it back together.

 

I still have not gotten an extra cluster gear, but if I do, I will let you know.



#27 stubbysteve OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2014 - 10:44 PM

thanks guys. I have been away for a while. I talked to my machinest buddy and he says if he can get 2 messed up cluster gears, he can take and cut the good one off, and cut the bad one off and line them up on a main shaft and weld it back up. he did this on a big farm type tractor and it still works. I dont know if they are made from different material or what but I think it may be worth a try. Does anyone have 2 bad cluster gears they want to donate to the cause? I would even be willing to pay for them as well.

 

 

I also have another question. It is about the wisconsin engine. A buddy of mine has a TR 10D wisconsin engine, it is black in color, has a external coil (automotive type) with the generator/starter. everything works and runs. My engine is red, internal coil, dont run, carb is locked up tight. etc etc. He wants me to trade him a 2007 white outdoors riding mower with 54 in cut, foot controlled hydrostat, 22 hp v twin briggs engine. Now the rider needs some work but I only gave 200 bux for it and it runs fine. Plus the guy is willing to add some money too.

 

would you all trade mower for engine and cash? I dont know how much cash. Or how much cash would you ask for plus the wisconsin engine?

 

Again I know the black wisconsin engine isnt the original engine, I probably wouldnt use it for at least a couple years while restoring the bush hog. I am just trying to figure out my pro's and con's. Any one have any advice???? thanks in advance.



#28 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2014 - 11:05 PM

The cranks in the Wisconsin are specific to Bush Hog- so the Engine must be a BH version Wisconsin for it to fit. Not sure how to price it.

#29 stubbysteve OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2014 - 11:19 PM

Oh I see says the blind legless man..............thanks for the heads up. The bh engine has the splines on it for the clutch plate correct???



#30 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2014 - 07:22 AM

I think it is that the crank is tapered for the clutch. Daniel may can add to this




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