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318 Check Valves


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#1 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2014 - 08:56 PM

The two check valves on 83 318 trany stuck. What is  the best way to free them up?


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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2014 - 09:20 PM

You talking about the Free Wheel valves that you use to roll the tractor? If so soak them up with penetrating oil overnight and work them in and out. Are they stuck down or up?



#3 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2014 - 09:39 PM

Not sure looks like not 1/4 inch of pin sticking up.


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#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2014 - 09:52 PM

You can gently pull them up with a pair of needle nosed pliers, just don't mark them up. Have you tried to tap them down to free them up?


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#5 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2014 - 10:44 PM

I'll tap on them after work tomorrow see if they break free. Thanks for  the help.



#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2014 - 05:48 AM

It's bad when they stick down so go easy when pushing them down. I have freed them by spraying them with a penetrating oil and then when I got them moving I continued to spray them to flush the dirt out from around the plunger. A lot of gunk came out before they truly freed up. 


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#7 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2014 - 05:49 AM

Hello Gopher

I had check valves giving me issues in the recent 1991 John Deere 316 that I built. They were seaping hydraulic fluid. I had the febnder pan off the Tractor so I started the engine which Put's pressure to them, Then gently pushed them down with my fingers. After a few times of this they stopped leaking or seaping hydraulic fluid. I believe since the tractor sat so long, the Valve's bled off and got dry. As soon as I pushed them down a few time's they got ample fluid to them to free them back up and make them stop seaping. I hope this helps, Hammerdown


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#8 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2014 - 09:29 PM

I went ahead and taped them down before I went to work come home still down. Went on to next thing changed switch and solenoid.Took the tin on right side all the way out fond pulse pump hose cleaned pump out.Primed it up fired right up no smoke at all not what I was expecting for a motor with lot of hours.As soon as it fired up the check valves popped up cleaned the pins with some micro sand paper.Now I can move the valves down with the rod bail. Now for the last glich on this is the out side hydrolic lever froze up. I beliefe this one controls deck that I don't have. If I get it freed up I will start on body work. I appreciate all the help.


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#9 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2014 - 03:06 AM

Hello Gopher

It is normal for the check Valves to sitick in the down Position if the Tractor is not running or has not run in awhile. When the engine fires up it it produces pressure to them so that is whay they Popped up when you started the engine. The Hydro lever's freeze up at the point of the lever that moves being the outer Knuckel around the lever itself. Simply spray that are well with pentrating oil and keep trying to work it eventually it will loosen up and work again. I hope this helps, Hammerdown


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#10 hdg4400 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2014 - 11:04 AM

gopher:

 

You are right about the outside lever. Here is a page from the Operator's Manual that tells what each lever controls. The rockershaft does indeed raise and lower the mower, and would control a 3-point hitch on the back, if you had one.

 

Attached File  Levers.docx   2.13MB   99 downloads

 

Harlan


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#11 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2014 - 11:13 AM

gopher:

 

You are right about the outside lever. Here is a page from the Operator's Manual that tells what each lever controls. The rockershaft does indeed raise and lower the mower, and would control a 3-point hitch on the back, if you had one.

 

attachicon.gifLevers.docx

 

Harlan

Hello Harlan

That is correct the same lever operates the rear rock shaft that lift's the mowing deck. If this Tractor was an H-2 style hydraulic system it would have Four quick coupler port's in the front of it Instead of Just Two as they have on them. Two are for Lifting a model 54" dirt hydraulic blade, and the other Two Port's would be for Turning the blade either direction. You can still run a Model 54" dirt dozer Blade on the front of these H-1 style hydraulic John Deere 316's you just would have no way to angle the blade. The Only differences between these late open Frame Model 316's compared to the 318's is that they lack Twin brake pedals, Power steering and the H-2 hydraulic option. Other than that they have the exact same Feature's & engine's and their drive line as the 318's. I hope this help's, Hammerdown



#12 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2014 - 08:34 PM

With a little work I got the valve freed up. I was going to start on body work but the kinks are working out relatively easy maybe to easy. I think I'll get some new gas line throw it all back together and run a couple tanks of gas see if it's going to hold up cause the fender pan is pretty rough. Don't want spend lot of time making it look nice for a trip back to the scrap yard. This one does have 4 ports on front.



#13 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2014 - 02:55 AM

Hello Gopher

The early 316's had the H-2 Option with Four hydraulic quick coupler's up front. Later on when they switched the frame's froma  closed frame Tractor to an Open designed frame just like the 318's had they dropped the H-2 Option and made it an H-1 machine meaning only one hydraulic lever. I am Not sure Exactly when the Hydraulic lever options changed but I know that the 316 I just built was a 1991 open frame Tractor with the H-1 Option and it is near the end of the time span for the 316 as they ceased making them in 1992 or so. Regards, Hammerdown



#14 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2014 - 11:39 AM

 A bit of info on the 300 series tractors and the two versions of the 316 FWIW:

 

From WFM:

Capable of using many of the same attachments as the JD 140, the 300 series of John Deere garden tractors began production with the 1975 model year. In that year, the hydrostatic model 300 was introduced, replacing the John Deere 140 and its seven-year production run. Although it shared many components from the 140, the 300 was upgraded to a 16HP Kohler K-series engine and had numerous styling changes. Major changes included a more squared off hood with integral headlights, engine side panels and a black plastic instrument panel. Realizing the liability of mounting a metal gas tank under the hood next to the battery, the model 300 had a plastic gas tank relocated under the rear fender pan with an increased capacity of 4.5 gallons. The John Deere 300 came equipped standard with a two-spool hydraulic lift system, a departure from the single or three-spool system available on the model 140. The charge pump and differential were largely unchanged from the 140, with the charge pump being manufactured by Sundstrand and the differential assembly by Dana. Individual rear wheel brakes also came standard on the model 300. Notably absent on the left side of the tractor was the clutch disconnect/ neutral return pedal found on the model 140. Identical to the model 300, the model 316 (Kohler powered) was manufactured during 1978 only. This particular model is often confused with the later series model 316, which was produced from 1984-1992. Being distinctly different tractors, there are few similarities between the early and late versions of the model 316.  Manufactured briefly from 1977 to 1978, the model 312 provided a basic, no frills 300 series tractor with 12 HP Kohler engine, no engine side panels, no ammeter, H1 hydraulics, narrower rear tires, and a single brake pedal for both rear wheels. Headlights were an option on the 312.

 

The early 316 was produced in 1978 and was powered by a Kohler K341.  Deere made 25k of them according to serial number charts that are on WFM and in my Deere 300/312/314/316K tractors.  

 

The production of the later 316 began after the change to the 318 in 1983:

In 1984, the 318 was joined by its little brother the 316. Basically the same tractor as the 318, but without power steering and having only 1 spool of hydraulics.


Edited by Trav1s, May 13, 2014 - 11:39 AM.

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#15 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 05:54 AM

Hello Travis

Thank's for the informative write up on the John Deere 316. I thought that they only offered it with the single cylinder Kohler 16 Horsepower engine for one year, and that tractor was of the closed frame style. I had only one Tractor with the Kohler 16 Horse Power single cylinder engine in it and that was a John Deere 216 which had the Optional Hydraulic Lift system. I can remember how that engine would rattle your Teeth out when it ran there was a Lot of vibration from it, But it was Very Powerful. I am Now spoiled with how smooth an Onan engine is and would never go back to a single cylinder design engine. The Later made 316's in my mind are a bargain as far as price goes as they do not pull the money that a John Deere 318 will pull.I don't see the lack of Power stering on the John Deere 316's as a minus as my son in law's steer's very easy once we got it greased up well it steer's very similar to how my 318 steers. He is only using his to mow with so there is no need for the H-2 hydraulics on it. He could mount my model 30 Hydraulic tiller on his Tractor as it operates off of the rear rock shaft as far as lifting and lowering it. Another option I do not use much on my 318 That his Tractor lack's is the Twin brake pedals. Back when I built his Tractor I adjusted his rear brakes through the backing Plate's as well as the Threaded rod's that it has and his brakes work fine.I did Place Rear tail light's on his 316 as it came with Red reflector's on it. I used the same light housings that are seen on the 318 and a set of 318 Tail Lights. I robbed the rear tail light harness off of the 1985 John Deere 317 part's Tractor that we bought as well as the 48" mowing deck. He is very Pleased with his tractor it worked out perfect for him and he does Not Miss his former Cub Cadet Tractor. Regards, Hammerdown






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