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Jake 1450 Pics & Dilema ?

jacobsen super chief jacobsen 1450 jacobsen super chief 1450 jacobsen 53260

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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 10:13 AM

Here's a few pics of the Jake as of this morning. I have it running, though barely. I have driven it some. I 'borrowed' the AG's off the Ford as the turfs on it won't hold air.

Image013.jpg     Image014.jpg

 

I got the seat pan sort of straightened and added some plywood to sit on.

Image015.jpg

 

Now the dilema. I had taken the head off before I ever started it as it had no compression what so ever. It had a new head gasket on it and things 'looked' okay. But I didn't check the head. I put it back together and after running it for a bit got this.

Image016.jpg

 

I took the head back off this morning and found it warped between bolts 1 & 4 (according to the torque specs).

Image017.jpg     Image017a.jpg

 

If you look at these two pics you can see the warp.

Image018.jpg     Image019.jpg

 

There is about 0.015" gap between holes 1 & 4. Do you think I can clean that up? Or should I just look for a new head? I am going to investigate further. I may be able to take some material off around the #4 hole, then use the sandpaper on glass trick to get it back flat.


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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 10:22 AM

Kenny, I would try sanding it flat on a piece of glass, it shouldn't take a long time. Use wet paper and lots on water to keep the sand paper clear of build up.

 

I may have a extra head if you don't get it flat, I will look around.


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 10:25 AM

I was worried about taking that much off as it may take more than that to straighten it.


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#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 10:32 AM

I would sand it down til it just starts to touch the low spot and quit. The head gasket will make up some of the warped area.

 

From Brian Millers Site,

 

If you're pulling in class where the rules read that you must use a stock OEM cylinder head, stock valve lift and stock diameter valvs, and you want to get a little more power out of your engine, what can be done is "shave" or mill the head. This is when approximately .050" of metal is removed from the prominent/raised gasket mating surface ridge. To guarantee that the head is absolutely parallel, this must be performed on a milling machine with a flycutter and not on a sanding disc or belt sander. Use a sanding disc or wide belt sander only if the head is warped. Resurface the head until it's perfectly flat. If the sanding disc or belt is worn uneven (from multiple sandings), the head won't resurface perfectly flat.

 

Milling of the head (remove the raised ridge that mates with the head gasket) will increase the compression ratio about 3/4 of a point. And depending on engine size, this will add about 1-3 more horsepower. The engine will have a "snappier" response when the throttle is opened suddenly. Be sure to check the valve clearance before milling a head! If a lot of metal is removed from the head, then milling of the valve cavity to clear the head may need to be done. In most cases with a stock-lift cam, there should be adequate clearance once the head is milled. Always check the clearance with the valves at full lift before milling a head!

 


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#5 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 10:35 AM

Don't sweat it! Use 100 grit cloth backed paper glued down on a flat surface. You can take a lot off before you have issues like .030+
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#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 10:53 AM

Keith has given you good advice about the grit. Some people will tell you to use 400 or finer. It takes forever to do it like that. Use the coarse paper and then if you want, switch to something finer when you get close. Been there and done that on a Kohler head. Took hours using 400 grit. I just taped down wet paper onto the glass and used lots of water, rinsing frequently and turning the head often to average out any bias in my technique. 


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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 12:07 PM

I dont' have the 100 grit, so I broke out a little tool we used a lot in aircraft. First I gave it a minute on some wet 220 paper to identify the low spots.

Image021.jpg

 

Then I got this little guy after the high ones. It has a brown scotch bright pad on it. Be careful if you have not used one of these to remove metal on aluminum as you can gouge a spot real quick. Keeping the tool moving, you take very little at a time.

Image020.jpg

 

Then I would sand some and use the die grinder to help take it down. Finally, it was all sandpaper and here's what I have.

Image022.jpg

 

The area I got the 0.015" in before, I cannot get a 0.0015" into now. So I hope it works.

 

Brian, keep that head handy, as the plug hole has some nasty looking threads in it. Plus both the 1/4" bolts for the tin over it are broken off in the head. I'm gonna see if I can get them out now.


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#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 01:46 PM

Well, it looks like this is going to work. After the last post, I got the broken bolts out of the head and installed it. Fired it off and let it run a good 30-45 minutes. No sign of oil leakage out of the gasket area! Letting it cool now to torque the head again. It still has the exhaust valve sticking every so often. But I changed the oil and added some MMO to that and the gas. Just going to let it work for now. On to other issues!


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#9 Bill 76 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:15 PM

Check with a local auto engine rebuider--we have a belt sander with a belt about 2 feet wide that we used for warped exaust manifolds.I cleaned up many small engine heads with it and it only takes about a minute charged $5 sometimes free just for good pr.
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#10 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:21 PM

Well, it looks like this is going to work. After the last post, I got the broken bolts out of the head and installed it. Fired it off and let it run a good 30-45 minutes. No sign of oil leakage out of the gasket area! Letting it cool now to torque the head again. It still has the exhaust valve sticking every so often. But I changed the oil and added some MMO to that and the gas. Just going to let it work for now. On to other issues!

 

Good to hear Kenny, I hope it will be a god GT for you.


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#11 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:22 PM

Kenny, I would try sanding it flat on a piece of glass, it shouldn't take a long time. Use wet paper and lots on water to keep the sand paper clear of build up.

 

I may have a extra head if you don't get it flat, I will look around.

:iagree:



#12 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:24 PM

Well, it looks like this is going to work. After the last post, I got the broken bolts out of the head and installed it. Fired it off and let it run a good 30-45 minutes. No sign of oil leakage out of the gasket area! Letting it cool now to torque the head again. It still has the exhaust valve sticking every so often. But I changed the oil and added some MMO to that and the gas. Just going to let it work for now. On to other issues!

Good job on fixing the head! :thumbs:


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#13 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:24 PM

Kenny, That Coil pack should be mounted on the Shroud and not the head. That engine is one of the pointless ignition Kohlers, I've had a couple and they are great running engines.

 

post-2253-0-16291300-1399474797.jpg


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#14 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:41 PM

glad to see you got it running.

what are your plans for this jake? resto or just get it running and use it?

Tom



#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 02:44 PM

Kenny, That Coil pack should be mounted on the Shroud and not the head. That engine is one of the pointless ignition Kohlers, I've had a couple and they are great running engines.

 

attachicon.gifpost-2253-0-16291300-1399474797.jpg

I figured as much, Brian. With the short plug wire, it'll have to stay for now. I didn't know they made pointless ignition!

 

Tom, I'm not sure as yet. Still lots of issues to work around. Main thing at the moment is to see if it's worth the effort of new paint!


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