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Uncle's B110 Not Starting Need Help


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#16 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2011 - 09:12 PM

Like they say ' a picture is worth a thousand words " thanks DH1 &MH81 !!!!!!

#17 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2011 - 09:37 PM

I use alligator clips or a pair of locking pliers. I find it easiest to lightly vise-grip the probe end on the battery & use the clip to hook onto the battery cable. If there is current flow (drain), the light will light.

Sorry about the crudeness of the drawing, just trying to get the point across.


Thanks for the help so far everyone.....thanks for the photo.....so basically the test light part that you would normally hook to the positive still goes to postive and then you get 2 jumper wires and hook one from the part where you touch stuff with a test to the terminal of the battery and then get another junper and also hook that from the same part where you touch the light but take that to the neg cable then????sorry im just really confused i havent used a test light in quite a few years.....i just went out and grabbed one i had and hooked the power part of the test light to the positive side of the battery and touch the negative and it lit up......just trying to understand this.....im more of the person that has to be shown then i will be fine....

#18 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2011 - 09:48 PM

Leave the positive cable connected on the battery.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Hook the alligator clip up to the cable you just took off.
Touch the probe end to the negative terminal on the battery.
Key in off.
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#19 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2011 - 09:54 PM

Leave the positive cable connected on the battery.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Hook the alligator clip up to the cable you just took off.
Touch the probe end to the negative terminal on the battery.
Key in off.


ah, i see now nice and simple thanks, sorry for my confusion, i really dont understand electrical, Thanks again though

#20 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 09:59 AM

I measured voltage when trying to start through the solenoid down at the wire by the starter gen and i get 6.75-7 volts and if i take the spark plug out i get maybe 7.30 volts or so. I measured voltage at the trigger wire(sends voltage to starter to turn over when trying to start) and get the same voltage....on the live battery side of the solenoid i get battery voltage.. Does this sound ok?

This statement doesn't sound right to me. When you tested the voltage at the batt side of the solenoid was it cranking also? Maybe you should do a voltage drop test. Put one lead of your meter on the batt positive post and the other on the starter post. Crank the engine and see what the reading is on the meter. It should be less than 1 volt (actually 1/2 v would be better). If it is more than that, you have a bad connection somewhere. Then start moving one lead back towards the other until you get a low reading on the meter. To explain how this works, think of your meter as telling you the difference between the leads. When you are on the positive posts at the battery and starter you would expect the voltage to be the same. If it is, the meter will show 0v. If not, there is a problem. This test can alos be run between your neg batt post and the engine block. This is a good test to find bad cables or connections. Also a fully charged battery will be 12.6v. Anything more is just a surface charge.

#21 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 10:45 AM

Ok im up here working on this thing now I checked for a drain like u said, I get no light until I put it to the start position then it lights up...there is no light when key is in off or run position only when in start position. Also I just noticed that when u crank it over between the time the stater gen stops moving when trying to start and start to move again air is slightly hissing out where the head gasket is. Also did voltage drop on pos and neg cables not even .1 volts when I do it from pos cable and starter post I get bout .3v so that's fine. If wires are left on to check for drain between the batt pos and starter post and im not cranking I get battery voltage...is this ok?

#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 10:57 AM

I'd do the check again, only this time substitute the Volt meter for the light. I don't have one handy to do the same with, but IDT you should see any voltage in the off position, but you should see something in run position. If nothing in run, then voltage regulator not working?

You should definitely see something when you hit start, that'd be the solenoid electromagnet.

As for the head gasket, are you sure it's leaking or is it hissing from the exhaust or carb. If the latter, it's either compression release or bad valves. If it's leaking from the head gasket, it needs fixed.

#23 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 11:11 AM

U can hear and feel air escaping from the gasket...I will do the test again with the light. I keep the battery cables hooked up to the battery for this right?

#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 11:52 AM

With wires all connected & key off, there should be ZERO volts from + post on battery to starter solenoid on battery side (where regulator charge wire connects) . I stick with the regulator being bad on this one. That head gasket is going to need replaced if it's leaking....for sure.

#25 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 04:26 PM

theres a guy up the street from my uncle who repairs the starter gen, we asked if he could check to see if it was ok and operating correctly and it turns out its not good, so he is going to get it repaired and as for the headgasket thats on order....going up next friday i will let ya know how everything goes

#26 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 04:35 PM

Ok im up here working on this thing now I checked for a drain like u said, I get no light until I put it to the start position then it lights up...there is no light when key is in off or run position only when in start position.


Yes that's good, the way it should be.

#27 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 04:41 PM

Also did voltage drop on pos and neg cables not even .1 volts when I do it from pos cable and starter post I get bout .3v so that's fine. If wires are left on to check for drain between the batt pos and starter post and im not cranking I get battery voltage...is this ok?


Voltage drop test you did is good, shows good connections.
Testing voltage between the battery pos. post and the starter post with the heavy wire that comes from the solenoid when the key is in off or run will show voltage.

As olcowhand says most likely the regulator is the problem here.

#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2011 - 04:47 PM

If wires are left on to check for drain between the batt pos and starter post and im not cranking I get battery voltage...is this ok?


Oh, I read that wrong the 1st time.....that is correct as you said it.

#29 RailmanB110 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 24, 2011 - 12:33 AM

I believe, if in OE configuration, that the key switch only serves to engage the starter and to kill by grounding the mag. The voltage regulators should kick themselves out when engine is shut down, but a faulty one keeps the starter live through the field. My Bush Hogs with starter/gen, and my Unico all have systems with regulator "on their own", separate from the key switch.


:thumbs:Olcowhand has a good place to start!

My guess is that the point contacts on the regulator are stuck/welded shut. When the engine isn't running, they should all be open. I remember fiddling with my B110 when I 1st bought it in used '78. If I remember right, I sanded some of the contacts, & fiddled with the gap to get it to charge right. Try removing the cover make sure all the gaps are open when not running.
Joe

#30 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2011 - 08:32 PM

was in fact the starter gen. fixed it all up today runs great, and no more drain!!!!




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