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Cub Quick Attach Deck, Qna.


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#1 Gfann OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2014 - 05:35 PM

How long are the two arms shown in the picture on a typical Quick Attach deck? I'm retro fitting the undercarriage from a pin attach deck. I think these two arms need to be longer. So I need to know how long they are on a normal Q-A undercarriage. It doesn't look they need to be very much longer.

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#2 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 03:50 PM

I"ll measure tonight and post

 

thnx


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#3 Gfann OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 03:53 PM

I"ll measure tonight and post

 

thnx

 

 

Id appreciate that, Thanks.



#4 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 05:05 PM

Where you have the red lines in pic 1 above is 8.25" on my 108 QA frame.


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#5 Gfann ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 05:32 PM

Where you have the red lines in pic 1 above is 8.25" on my 108 QA frame.

excellent, I WAS off a bit more then I thought. more like two inches. thanks I really appreciate it.  


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#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2014 - 05:35 PM

Glad to help!



#7 Gfann ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2014 - 07:49 PM

Glad to help!

Hey KennyP, did you measure from the cross bar or the full length of the side rails? I was working on the deck again today and all of figures aren't really jiving. If I measure out from the cross bar to the ends of the rails that are stubbed in the front and add enough to get to 8.25" it extends it to far and hit the other part of the undercarrage but if I measure out the entire length of the rails I'm pretty much at the 8.25".  

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#8 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 06:42 AM

My lift is different from yours. It's on a 108. What's yours on? The deck looks the same though.

The measurement was from the pins at the rear to the front (where your green line is above). From where the mower deck pins (center of hole) at the rear to the front is 20.25" +/-.


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#9 Gfann ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 07:31 AM

My lift is different from yours. It's on a 108. What's yours on? The deck looks the same though.
The measurement was from the pins at the rear to the front (where your green line is above). From where the mower deck pins (center of hole) at the rear to the front is 20.25" +/-.



The deck In the photo, I recently picked up. The lift/undercarriage is off a 100 and 125. The 125 has a QA mule drive but the deck it had was a pin. This deck being a QA, I just needed to fab the lift Mech'. My measurement was 20.25-.50 rear hole center (where the qa pin is) to front clevis.

Seems like everything is actually closer to where it needs to be then I thought. Well I guess, I'll just have to put the deck on and see how it fits. My concern was when the deck was lowered the front (where the clevis's are) would fall off. Ive got to weld a support bar from the two side rails tha connect to the rear of the deck.
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#10 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 03:09 PM

Mount it up and it will be good to go.  I have my 100 setup with the mule drive from a 100/102 style tractor on the front of a QA style undercarriage.  It is all IH parts with no modifications and I use either my 38A or my 42" quick attach decks on it and either one will fit right under my 107 just the same.  You are right you will have to do something to keep the arms spread out.  I used a piece of flat stock that I can put into the pins to keep them apart as I didn't want to modify the undercarriage at the time allthough welding would be nicer.  Good luck with it.


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#11 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 05:53 PM

If the back is pinned solid, the front can't slide off!


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#12 Gfann ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 06:10 PM

If the back is pinned solid, the front can't slide off!

When the deck raises and lowers the side rails that slide into the clevises shift back and forward. If they are too short, my thought was that when I lower the deck they would slide back and out of the clevises. but if they're too long then they interfere with other areas of the left mech'. 

 

I'm working on it right now actually. I did have to alter the middle piviting component. I though I might be able to use it as it was, but the stabilizing arm ( I guess its called ) needs to be offset to clear some other components by the feet rest which are not present in the 100. When I get it done I'll take some pictures so you can see my handy work. 

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#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 06:17 PM

It shouldn't come off unless you drop it down with a hole below the front of the deck!


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#14 Gfann ONLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2014 - 07:16 PM

It shouldn't come off unless you drop it down with a hole below the front of the deck!

Well I got it on and it more or less works. I do need to redo my stabilizing bar. the off set part needs to be farther down to clear the underside of the chassis. But it raised and lowered like it should. everything else worked. Tomorrow when I redo the arm I'm going to cut of down a little further and bend a flat bar to look more like the actual part. The thing I made sort of looks hidious.

 

I'll tell you what though the cub runs super rough. Hard to start and get it to run smooth. it takes a few minutes for it to warm up then it smooths out a bit but still pops and cracks, back fires a lot. I adjusted the carb' to see if that would help while I was doing that deck. I bought an engine gasket set over the winter, I guess I'm going to have to do use the set after all. 

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#15 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2014 - 04:54 PM

Check the timing at the points plunger on the engine before you go to tearing it down.  My 107 would start really hard and labor for several minutes till it warmed up then it would run ok but not great.  I regapped the points and it starts super easy and runs well with more power than it did before.






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