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Made A Great Trade Today

3K views 48 replies 7 participants last post by  larrybl 
#1 ·
Got rid of the SNL's trailer eye sore and was given this. As far as I can tell the engine code is 60102 0304 01 7009, 3 hp or so. This might work on the MW tiller I have been needing an engine for.
 

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#5 ·
Got around to playing with the edger, I power washed it and it cleaned up good. I pulled the coil and used heat shrink tubing to re-cover the wires. Cleaned and adjusted the points to 0.020 and tested by spinning with the drill. I got a couple sparks from the plug then it quit firing. Nothing shows on the spark tester so I made a trip to ACE to get a new tune up kit, and a new muffler, I think it needed one.

The engine code is 60102-0304-01 S/N 7009033 Looks to be a 1970's vintage. Can anyone point me to a manual for this? I am assuming the points need to be 0.020, and not a clue as to the plug gap.
 

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#10 ·
Well, I had some fits getting the bugs worked out today, but I think I have a winner now for a 44 year old engine.

Had some fits with backfire through the carb and no start (turn your volume down for these).



Come to find a slightly bent flywheel key, replaced it and re-gaped the points and this is now what I have.

 

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#11 ·
Glad it's running again.
 
#14 ·
I didn't notice any slop, there isn't a dedicated bolt holding the flywheel on, only the spin on starter. I guess I may have offset the flywheel when spinning the starter on. I originally put the key on the shaft and slid the flywheel on the first time. The second time I installed the flywheel then inserted the key. Taped the key flush, then placed the large washer and spun on the starter.
 
#15 ·
This thing was running perfect after I replaced the bent key, but then started missing, then missing worse, then back to back firing through the carb, then a no start condition. It was an observable degradation over a couple hours. So I went all the way back to the points, they were still gaped correctly. I found my problem.... really amazed as how close these engines are timed. Just this little slop is causing my issue. I tried several OEM keys and the same result. So I took a larger key and ground it down to fit tighter in the key way. Engine is back to running smooth with no missing.

 
#17 ·
I guess... Really surprised that this little slop was causing all my issues. I would assume that if a nut was used to hold the flywheel on then this might not be an issue. With only the pull rope starter this most likely has allowed the key way to become worn enough to not allow a standard key to keep it in time.
 
#19 ·
Back to the drawing board! I made sure the starter was tight against the flywheel. I swear this thing is possessed! Replaced the flywheel key with a larger one, and had very little "slop" but wasn't as tight as I would have liked it. While testing I took videos every 10-15 seconds, First minuet or so it ran perfectly smooth with no missing, next minuet or so it started to pop once or twice every 10 seconds or so, then this is after about at the three minuet mark, really starting to degrade and miss badly then then the starter started screaming like a banshee!


I wonder if they still have starter assemblies for this? I hate to give up with about $40.00 invested.
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
That's the recoil clutch, it will rip the rope off and damage the recoil., pull the cover, spin off the recoil clutch, sand down the crank with sand paper and emery cloth, put a small drop or two of oil on it then reassemble.

I do it all the time on thoses little engines.
 
#23 ·
I know you have cleaned the tank and carb but being that it runs well could it kicks up dirt or scum and clogs up the pick up screen? Sounds like a fuel hiccup.

Just a thought.

Small Briggs....been awhile but What kind of recoil does it have? The one that bolts to the fly wheel and has a square peg on it? Or the cup and dogs?
Fuel seems fine, after a fit of missing and backfiring I reset the key and it purrs like a kitten, then acts up again. Every time I pull the flywheel (four times now) it runs fine for several minuets then... well you saw it.

It has the one that bolts on the flywheel with the square peg.
 
#25 ·
Still researching this. First, I did not know that there are two different type keys, one for electronic ignition, and a different size for points. I assume the new points kit I bought should have the correct key, but that key became deformed earlier on, and I used a key from my parts bin. Also I looked up the correct parts for this, and a tool that should allow me to tighten the starter correctly.

This is what I found at the Briggs site;
61760 Key for Points "Call Us" I have to order the points to get this.
399671 Clutch, Starter Used after code 6405220 $23.50
294628 Points kit (includes key 61760) $13.11
19069 Flywheel Puller $12.98 (Is this what I need)?

So basically another $60.00 or so. hmmm Now I am wondering if it is worth it. I checked Home Depot and these are running around $250.00 or so.

I'll probably go ahead and order these parts, Thanks for the help.
 
#26 ·
Before ordering parts I gave it one more try. I cleaned the starter, found a tool that let me tighten it good. Took it outside and started it up. Running good, so I let it run while checking on it about every 10 minuets. After 45 minuets this is what I found. Cleaned it up to see where it is leaking. Update, I have it back in the shop. Added oil, no leaks while NOT running. Hmmmm.
 

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