Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Flywheel Seized


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 25, 2014 - 07:21 PM

Sorry all this is a bit of a continuation of my other topic but I'm out of options.  The flywheel on my gt262 is seized, it's the Kawasaki FC540V.  I have tried:

 

- Candle wax

- PB Blaster (for days)

- Homemade penetrating oil

- I have used a flywheel puller until the end of the crank shaft is getting ruined and the puller is bent

- I have tried hitting the puller with a hammer

- I have tried heating around the shaft for 45 mins with a heat gun

- I have tried heating around the shaft for 45 mins with propane

- Hitting the flywheel around the shaft

- Prying on the flywheel and hitting the end of the shaft

 

The only thing I haven't tried is heating it red hot with an oxy torch which I do not have.  I don't know what else to do.  I'm trying to get to the stator since mine is only putting out 10V AC which I believe is not enough.  At this point I'm worried about ruining the engine somehow if I already haven't.

 

I'm out of options and not sure what to do next.  Does anyone have any new ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

Matt


  • petrj6 said thank you

#2 DougT ONLINE  

DougT

    Dog Approved

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 584
  • 5,729 Thanks
  • 4,286 posts
  • Location: north central Ohio

Posted April 25, 2014 - 07:43 PM

Matt, I'm not familiar with the engine. Is this a cast iron or aluminum flywheel? Can you post a pic of the puller set-up? I don't think I've ever sen one that tight. how hard did you hit the puller? I've found that one good swing will work better and less damage than a bunch of half hearted ones. Another thought would be an airhammer. Sometimes the vibration will free it faster than force.



#3 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,317 Thanks
  • 4,664 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted April 25, 2014 - 08:00 PM

Wow..  That thing is really on there!!  

 

Leave the Oxy-acetylene torch in the shed!  It's too hotl!

 

Apply as much force as you dare with your puller again..  I've had success doing this while others objected to it..  

 

Here it is:  

 

I use a MAPP torch (burns hotter than propane) and heat the flywheel a tad out / away from the crankshaft..  (~ 1/4") and move it around to raise the temperature of the flywheel only.  Don't heat the crankshaft!  Keep at it for a minute or so then stop heating & let the heat radiate through the flywheel..  

 

It will usually pop right off by itself with just the puller pressure once the flywheel expands..  If not, try a rap or two and then repeat the heating cycle..  

 

Once the thing is off, you can replace the Crank seal before reassembly if you had to really heat things up..



#4 petrj6 ONLINE  

petrj6
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 53717
  • 3,808 Thanks
  • 2,221 posts
  • Location: petersbrgh ny

Posted April 25, 2014 - 08:48 PM

  I took apart a briggs 243400 series engine awhile back and the flywheel was on that tight, I tried and tried but nothing worked.  finally I made a special puller out of a piece of heavy wall pipe, put a cap on the end and drilled for a large fine thread bolt, then welded two stout tabs to it, drilled holes in the tabs to bolt it to the fly wheel then hammered on the bolt with a good impact wrench till it was not going anymore, then after that I laid the engine on the floor and took a 3lb sledge to the end of the bolt.  voila off it came.

   the problem with most pullers is that they can flex and bend, as soon as that happens you lose your power.  I can get pics of the puller I made and show you tomorrow if you want, maybe it will work on yours if so I can send it to you to use.



#5 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

KC9KAS
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10038
  • 4,783 Thanks
  • 4,303 posts
  • Location: Holland, IN

Posted April 25, 2014 - 08:52 PM

What are the chances the flywheel is threaded onto the crank?



#6 propane1 ONLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 6,110 Thanks
  • 3,202 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted April 25, 2014 - 09:47 PM

Put a gasoline and oil mixture on it. Chainsaw gas. Then let it soak and keep adding. Then put your puller on and put tension on it. Then put a engraver tool on the puller and let it vibrate. Just a thought. Hope it comes off for you. Noel.

#7 propane1 ONLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 6,110 Thanks
  • 3,202 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted April 25, 2014 - 09:51 PM

What are the chances the flywheel is threaded onto the crank?

Good thought,, I can't say I ever seen it. Noel.

#8 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted April 25, 2014 - 10:16 PM

Put a gasoline and oil mixture on it. Chainsaw gas. Then let it soak and keep adding. Then put your puller on and put tension on it. Then put a engraver tool on the puller and let it vibrate. Just a thought. Hope it comes off for you. Noel.

Vibration is a good idea, an air hammer on low pressure might do it too.

Excess heat is as bad or worse than no heat,

 

There are hundreds of ways to do this particular job.

 

depending on the materials involved, different procedures result in different results.

 

I would really need to see the flywheel to see the best way to get it off.



#9 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

crittersf1

    GT Lunatic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 26142
  • 4,169 Thanks
  • 5,761 posts
  • Location: Newport, N.C.

Posted April 26, 2014 - 06:22 AM

Pics are warranted on this.



#10 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,317 Thanks
  • 4,664 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted April 26, 2014 - 07:17 AM

What are the chances the flywheel is threaded onto the crank?

Thats what I was thinking for a bit..  I looked the C/S up on Partstree and saw it is a tapered fit..  (Some of the old B&S had them threaded.)  



#11 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 26, 2014 - 09:46 AM

Good morning all, I have been hitting the puller with my impact wrench.  The puller is starting to bend, it's not good.  I would agree maybe that the metal is soft, I can tell you the top of the crank is not looking healthy but it should not affect reassembly.  I was thinking of using the mapp gas and trying that.  The thing is I got this mower as a learning experience to improve my skills well the thing is pretty much complete, I've welded the deck, replaced the bottom seal and the crank seal and a number of other things.  Nothing very expensive but still I don't want to ruin the engine and scrap the project.  I need the flywheel off to figure out why the stator is only putting out 10v ac.

 

I need the stator and rectifier to work right because this engine has a solenoid on the carb so the minute the battery wears out the mower dies, otherwise I would just keep the battery trickle charged and mow that way for now.  

 

The flywheel looks cast to me.  I will get some pics together when I get home today.  I was thinking mapp gas or something like CRC freeze off.  I think the first thing I should do is quickly reassemble and start it up and make sure it still runs fine then get back at it.  Either that or I have to figure out some way to keep it running with that solenoid on the carb. 

 

I hope some of these pics help.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG-20140426-00126.jpg
  • IMG-20140426-00127.jpg
  • IMG-20140426-00128.jpg
  • IMG-20140426-00129.jpg


#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,649 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted April 26, 2014 - 10:13 AM

Word of extreme caution...in the pics I can see the puller shaft isn't aligned with the crank.  It's tilted.  Very important you get it straight up & down or striking the puller with the tile can break the threaded end right off the crank!!!



#13 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,710 Thanks
  • 8,563 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted April 26, 2014 - 10:32 AM

Word of extreme caution...in the pics I can see the puller shaft isn't aligned with the crank.  It's tilted.  Very important you get it straight up & down or striking the puller with the tile can break the threaded end right off the crank!!!

 

I saw that but thought it was maybe the picture angle. I think I would also have the nut on the end to protect the treads and also prevent the fly wheel from flying off when it does brake free.

 

JD used this engine in the 320 so I looked it up in the service manual.  Sorry it wasn't any help.  It just basically says to remove the nut and us the flywheel puller to remove it.



#14 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,649 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted April 26, 2014 - 10:39 AM

Looking at the pic again, the angle might just be because there doesn't appear to be tension at the time.  Looks like maybe clearance at the one 5/16" bolt, so that would mean it's not tightened up.  So if she;'s straight when tightened up, just disregard me.  :smilewink:



#15 DougT ONLINE  

DougT

    Dog Approved

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 584
  • 5,729 Thanks
  • 4,286 posts
  • Location: north central Ohio

Posted April 26, 2014 - 12:29 PM

Get the puller straight and get good tension on it. Then give the puller bolt a good hard smack with the 3 lb mini sledge. It would be a wise idea to put the nut on first though. I'v seen them go flying when you smack it.






Top