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Homebuilt 3Pt Hitch Specs?


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#1 nohope OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 09:27 PM

Hello guys I have a sears gt14 that  I aquired last year that it just parked in the shed and it is missng the lift bars and the round stock lift arms. Does anybody know the dimensions so I can build them ? I don't have any equipment yet but I do have a cultivator and a bottom plow for a slide hitch that I am going to modify to a 3 pt hook up once I get my parts built.


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 04:51 AM

Is this for a Sears 3-point or a regular Cat 0?


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 06:13 AM

Welcome to GTT. Check our Manuals Section for info too. Good Luck, Rick


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#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 07:00 AM

Instead of modifying the implements for the hitch, it might be a good idea to build an adapter for it. I built one and it works. Not pretty, but functional.

Let me look for a pic.

EDIT: found the thread: http://gardentractor...is/#entry309802
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#5 nohope OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 10:15 AM

Is this for a Sears 3-point or a regular Cat 0?

It has the center link and the lift bracket and  it is for the sears 3pt. I just need something to look at to build the flat stock arms and the round stock lift arms. I found some specs for the flat lift bars but now it  a diagram of the 1/2 inch diameter lift rods


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#6 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 12:11 PM

Try this thread, it has pics with about any and all the specs you would need.

 

http://www.mytractor...t=186452&page=2


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#7 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 05:23 AM

Sears used several different arm over the years. One is (roughly) 18", one is 15" and a couple of oddballs that go with stuff like the dump rake and other singular attachments I guess

The 15" seems to have been for tillers and the sleeve hitch adapter and the 18" is for regular attachments.
Again, these measurements aren't precise, just so you can separate what you are seeing when you look at pics.
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#8 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 07:37 AM

Yea, the 15" is the "short" arms used for the tiller and rake. The shorter arms slightly helped in making it easier to lift the heavier attachments. I think they may have used a short top link too.


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#9 nohope OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 08:06 AM

Got the homebuilt hitch parts on today. got to cut the right lift rod and weld a turnbuckle on it for adjustment. Any suggestions on what other options I have for the adjustment rod fab? Here is a couple of pics so far...got to clean carb out and replace a gas line soon and then I will be modifying  my sleeve hitch equipment to a 3pt hitch.

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#10 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 08:22 AM



Got the homebuilt hitch parts on today. got to cut the right lift rod and weld a turnbuckle on it for adjustment. Any suggestions on what other options I have for the adjustment rod fab? Here is a couple of pics so far...got to clean carb out and replace a gas line soon and then I will be modifying  my sleeve hitch equipment to a 3pt hitch.

 

If I was you, I would try to fab up a sleeve hitch adapter to fit your 3 pt as MH81 linked to. It will be less work it the long run and then you can still use attachments on a different sleeve hitch tractor and if you had to sell, much easier to get rid of. You could just use a couple pieces of heavy angle iron and fab it up.

 

I got ahold of the lower arm for a newer sleeve hitch and modified to my old Sears.

 

photobucket-4844-1385939605214_zpsf32421


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#11 nohope OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 08:22 AM

all the turnbuckles I found are to long...I need  a 1/2 turnbuckle about 4 inches long to allow for adjustment. Any Ideas?



#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 08:38 AM

If you must have the adjustment, you could always use a poor man's turnbuckle. It eliminates the LH Threads and cuts your adjustment in half, but they work.
Pardon the poor pic, not where I can use a PC right now.

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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 08:53 AM

If you must have the adjustment, you could always use a poor man's turnbuckle. It eliminates the LH Threads and cuts your adjustment in half, but they work.
Pardon the poor pic, not where I can use a PC right now.

Awesome drawing there, Alan!



#14 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 08:59 AM

The only time I ever really use any adjustments on my link is for hte moldboard plow. Then I only turn maybe 4-5 turns to get a littel angle. Usually mine are sitting level.

Do you have access to a welder?

You can kind of do like 81 said, cut your link in two, then cut them short. You can then use a threaded rod up top, weld a nut to a tube big that enough for the threaded rod to slide through then open end of tube weld tube to the other part of link. You would have to pull one of the link pins to be able to remove from mount and turn, but would work. You could actually use threaded rod upper and lower, then just weld rod and nut together on the bottom or now that I look at it, you could weld nut on bottom too like top. You would have to remove the links from mount and adjust independently, but that would give you longer adjustment.

 

 

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#15 nohope OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2014 - 09:15 AM

ive built 2 sets of rods and they are never the same size after bending them so this way I can even them up....lol


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