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John Deere 314


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#16 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 10:42 PM

Cf would be a great choice! I was thinking aluminum as it is relatively soft.
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#17 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 06:38 AM

If you are hard bolting the motor down to the frame then the amount of movement to be compensated would be smaller. I think the 300/316 used a slightly different setup for the driveshaft. If you check the diagrams you should see the differences. I'm thinking the 300/316 used a metal disk with rubber isolators rather than the fibre disks used in the 314. The 317 has a u jointed drive shaft because the twin cylinder engine has a higher crankshaft and won't line up with the rear end without the u joints.  If you post this question on the Garden Tractors Pulling forum you should get some advice on how to optimize the drive train for pulling.


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#18 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2014 - 09:06 AM

Cf would be a great choice! I was thinking aluminum as it is relatively soft.

Aluminum would probably be cheaper.



#19 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2014 - 01:45 PM

Any idea how much a John Deere 314 would be worth with a broke connecting rod? no attachments.



#20 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2014 - 01:59 PM

I got my complete 312 without a deck with a broken rod for $250. FWIW


Edited by Trav1s, April 30, 2014 - 02:06 PM.


#21 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 04:18 PM

http://philadelphia....4465041317.html

$250

00J0J_ft7oqbjHr8n_600x450.jpg

 

i have a older john deere lawn tractor i have owned it about two years stored inside went to start it this year just wont start cranks over i think its a coil or carb issue the deck is a little beat up but works and is off the machine do have side covers and all the parts for the deck. these tractors are not cheap !!!!

 

 

Is this a fair price?


Edited by VintageIronCollector, May 28, 2014 - 04:18 PM.


#22 jdslednut OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 06:28 PM

I would say it's fair.  I paid $400 for mine and have modded it out with 317 hydraulics and brakes as well as power steering.  I really like mine.  If it's a simple issue, I'd say the price is good.



#23 grnspot110 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 06:44 PM

Just for comparison, I gave $1000 for my 80-314 3 years ago, in very good condition:

 

HPIM2158 - Copy.JPG

 

Lowell



#24 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 07:01 PM

Here's the pictures of the one that I said about before that had the broken connecting rod. Price is $300. What do you think?

 

Josh's John Deere 314.jpg



#25 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 07:02 PM

Quite frankly I don't think that I could go wrong on this one.



#26 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 08:08 PM

I think both are reasonable. Price is what I would expect on a Deere hydro. I bought a complete but not running '81 314 over a year ago for $300.
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#27 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 09:24 PM

I think both are reasonable. Price is what I would expect on a Deere hydro. I bought a complete but not running '81 314 over a year ago for $300.

Which one is better than the other one as far as the price?



#28 grnspot110 ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 09:27 PM

Here's the pictures of the one that I said about before that had the broken connecting rod. Price is $300. What do you think?

 

attachicon.gifJosh's John Deere 314.jpg

Looks in pretty good overall condition externally, I'd go for it!  ~~  Lowell


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#29 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 09:57 PM

Looks in pretty good overall condition externally, I'd go for it!  ~~  Lowell

I'll just have to check about space first. Oh yeah, and get the money too



#30 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 10:27 PM

The one with the broken rod looks really nice.  It would be my choice of the two.


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