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John Deere 314


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#1 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 03:32 PM

I'm thinking about purchasing a John Deere 314 garden tractor to pull with. 16hp Kohler engine in it. Would this be a good tractor to pull with? Anything I should be worried about?



#2 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 03:53 PM

Was the original 14 HP replaced with a 16 HP? The 314 is a good solid machine which replaced the 300/316 with the Kohler K341.  It shares most design elements with the 317 and is a very different tractor than the later 316/318.  The biggest problem with the 314/317 tractors are motor mounts and driveshafts.  Bad motor mounts cause the driveshaft to go bad and both mounts and driveshafts are expensive.  


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#3 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 04:04 PM

The 14hp Kohler has a broken connecting rod and I would replace it with a 16hp Kohler instead of fixing the 14hp engine. Do you think the 16hp would bolt in?


Edited by VintageIronCollector, April 23, 2014 - 04:04 PM.

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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 04:33 PM

What Travis said. If I were using one for pulling I'd solid mount the engine and beef up the couplers/ isolators on the drive shaft. The Dana rear end is strong on these but you should check the wheel bearings before buying. They wear and it shows up as end play in the axle. You need to lift the rear end to check this. The price of the bearings from JD is about 100$ a pop. There must be a cheaper way to repair them. It's something you'd want to have in good shape if using one as a puller. 


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#5 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 04:36 PM

What Travis said. If I were using one for pulling I'd solid mount the engine and beef up the couplers/ isolators on the drive shaft. The Dana rear end is strong on these but you should check the wheel bearings before buying. They wear and it shows up as end play in the axle. You need to lift the rear end to check this. The price of the bearings from JD is about 100$ a pop. There must be a cheaper way to repair them. It's something you'd want to have in good shape if using one as a puller. 

Anybody have a diagram showing these?



#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 04:55 PM

DSCF9061.jpg

 

I can do better than that. Heres one of the axles from a 317. Same rear end as 314. Just for size reference the piece of aluminium rod next to the axle is 25mm or close to 1" in diameter. You can see the wheel bearing. I think they starve for grease when left un maintained for a long time and begin to wear. The retainer ring gets loose and then the axle /bearing can slide in and out. 

  If you want parts diagrams you can get them on jdparts.com. Do a model search for 314 and pick the 314 garden tractor out of the list. 


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#7 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 05:52 PM

Any ideas on how I would mount the engine directly to the frame? Also how could I "beef" up the drive shaft? Remember I got a budget to keep.



#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 07:14 PM

All you need to do for the engine mounts is to measure the height of the rubber mounts and then build up a metal mount to use in their place. If your mounts are Ok then don't worry about it, but  the front ones in particular are very pricey. The couplers are the issue on the drive shaft. If you are inspecting the tractor and can reach up under it and grab the drive shaft, check for rotational and up and down play in the shaft. On my 314 the rear coupler was shot. I got a replacement from JD but I'm not sure they are still available.  When the coupler wears out and the tractor is run that way it can chew up the input shaft on the hydro. This is a big issue unless you have another hydro available or can find another input shaft and do the replacement yourself. If you take a look at the parts diagrams you will see how the drivetrain is configured. 

   Shaft drive is nice, but in general I find it can be more expensive to repair than a belt and pulley system. 


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#9 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 07:36 PM

If you are inspecting the tractor and can reach up under it and grab the drive shaft, check for rotational and up and down play in the shaft.

If they're good should I let it go at that or "build up" the drive shaft somehow?



#10 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 09:37 PM

If you could come up with a solid replacement driveshaft there would be a market for the plans.  The K341 will bolt into the engine cradle on the 314.  


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#11 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 09:52 PM

If you could come up with a solid replacement driveshaft there would be a market for the plans. 

Couldn't you just replace the fiberglass discs with pieces of metal?



#12 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 09:53 PM

Couldn't you just replace the fiberglass discs with pieces of metal?

 

Possibly.  My 312 shares the same shaft so I will take a look at it the next time I am out to my storage unit.


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#13 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 10:01 PM

Possibly.  My 312 shares the same shaft so I will take a look at it the next time I am out to my storage unit.

 

Here's the diagram.

 

John Deere 314 driveshaft.JPG


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#14 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 10:17 PM

The 300/312/314/316k service manual shows them as plastic discs to allow for variations in alignment and to help with vibration isolation.  I would think you could duplicate the plastic discs in a different material.  The same shaft is used on the following tractors:

  • late 300 (>70,000)
  • 312
  • 314
  • 316

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#15 VintageIronCollector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 23, 2014 - 10:22 PM

 

I would think you could duplicate the plastic discs in a different material.

 

Maybe carbon fiber? Would be expensive though.






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