Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Gt262 Not Charging


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 21, 2014 - 10:49 AM

As some may have seen in  my other posts I needed to replace the crankcase and crankshaft seal, that is now complete.  The last thing on my list is the charging system.  My battery is not charging, I measured the voltage out of the stator at the connector and only read 10V AC, my book says it should be around 34V AC.  I wanted to pull that flywheel off but as of yet I don't have a socket over 1" to remove that nut.  My questions are:

 

1)  Can someone confirm I should read 34V AC at the connector from the stator?

 

2)  Can the stator be cleaned or is it a replacement part?

 

3)  Is that flywheel hard to remove?  Are there any tricks to getting it off of there?

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

Matt



#2 Trav1s ONLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 2,603 Thanks
  • 3,750 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted April 21, 2014 - 11:37 AM

Thoughts on 3) - The flywheel should just pull off once you get the large nut off the crank.  You might need a gear puller to get the flywheel off of it.  Be careful if you do use the puller - put tension on it and lightly tap around the center of the flywheel with a hammer.



#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted April 21, 2014 - 12:44 PM

Check the stator with an ohm meter. It should read a very low resistance. Check the wires at the connector for bad connections. How did you measure the 10vac? Was it with the engine running and the wires disconnected or with the regulator connected?



#4 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 21, 2014 - 02:14 PM

Check the stator with an ohm meter. It should read a very low resistance. Check the wires at the connector for bad connections. How did you measure the 10vac? Was it with the engine running and the wires disconnected or with the regulator connected?

I started the engine and disconnected the stator, the motor was at high idle, then I used my meter set to AC volts and measured it across the connector from the stator, it measured 10.5V AC.  I think that's the right way to test it?  The stator resistance measures 00.8, if I touch the terminals together on the meter the internal meter resistance measures 00.5.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Matt



#5 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,316 Thanks
  • 4,663 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted April 21, 2014 - 02:27 PM

#1-  If you measure 34 V AC from the Stator with the engine running WOT your stator is most likely OK and the trouble is either a bad connection or a FUBAR Regulator (most common).  Verify that the stator is isolated from any ground when the regulator is unhhoked or it could have a wire shorting to ground.  Inspection will be necessary if there is..  

 

Removing the flywheel is moot if the stator checks out.



#6 propane1 ONLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 6,110 Thanks
  • 3,202 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted April 21, 2014 - 03:31 PM

Most likely a bad wire or connection. Check from one connection to the next connection to see if you have continuity. Also check the fuse for continuity. Some times even if the fuse looks good it may be broke inside. Happen to me once when one of mine was not charging.  Noel   



#7 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,709 Thanks
  • 8,563 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted April 21, 2014 - 04:14 PM

Matt, does your meter have a zero control on it?  If so zero the ohm meter out and read out to ground and then across your connectors.  Your reading seems a bit light to be reading through the stator.



#8 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 21, 2014 - 04:57 PM

Unfortunately my digital meter does not have a zero, I can confirm the readings with my analog meter.  

 

I got the nut off the flywheel but that sucker won't budge.  I very gently pried up on it and used a piece of wood and a hammer to tap the center of the flywheel but no luck.  I put penetrating oil around the shaft and will pick up a flywheel puller in the next day or two.

 

I know the stators rarely go bad and the rectifier is usually the issue but other then measuring the resistance and the AC voltage I don't know how to test the stator.  I tested the fuses and checked the connector, the connector before the rectifier is a bit burnt but continuity looks good through the connector.  I'd hate to replace the stator for no reason.  I measured the AC voltage across the two pins on the connector, not on each pin to the ground.

 

I would love to download the service manual but I know that is stealing and it's not easy to find anymore.

 

Matt



#9 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 24, 2014 - 04:33 PM

So I got a flywheel puller and that thing won't budge, I'm going to break the puller before it comes off, I torqued that thing all the way down with my impact wrench and nothing would budge.  I'm not sure what to do next, I don't have a torch that could heat that flywheel up.  I get the "feeling" that it's at the breaking point if I torque it down further.

 

What can I do next?

 

Matt



#10 dropped82 ONLINE  

dropped82

    Nut Case

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 9923
  • 1,401 Thanks
  • 1,230 posts
  • Location: Indiana

Posted April 24, 2014 - 04:53 PM

I'm assuming that's the 17 hp Kawasaki? Although I don't support, I'm guilty of a BFH on a 265 I got. I had the same issue with the flywheel. Mine actually sheered the key and wedged itself. Being on a taper shaft, its tough already. One solid smack (after trying pb blaster, puller, etc) and it popped right off. A little filing on the end to repair the first couple threads and I was back in business. Sometimes there is nothing else. Good luck.

Eric

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

#11 mattsse OFFLINE  

mattsse
  • Member
  • Member No: 40455
  • 21 Thanks
  • 51 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted April 25, 2014 - 05:38 AM

If it's not too much trouble maybe someone could measure the AC voltage coming out of their stator and tell me if I don't even need to remove my flywheel.  I'm only measuring 10v AC which is not enough.  If someone could confirm their measurements that would be great.

 

Matt






Top