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Case 444 Hydraulic Lift Problems


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#1 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 10:21 PM

Hi everyone im new here and glad i found this site. Im hoping someone can help. I bought a case 444 and as soon as i apply pressure when the tiller weight engages on the sleeve hitch i have to high rev the engine to lift it but still moves about 1mm a second on the lift cylander. Im running 5w20 in the system but even when i bought it never lifted good. Looking at the switching valve the cylinder is moving both ways. It will let the tiller down instantly if i move the lift lever forward and it holds the tiller up for days once its up. The tractor drives normally just seems to have no lifting power though the tiller blades still till fine using my side lever. How can i diagnos if its my main valve or a seal in the lifting piston. I hope thats enough info?
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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 10:29 PM

Karlos, Welcome to GTtalk. I'm not a Case man so I can't help. But there will be some of the Case guys stop by shortly to help you out and if you get the chance, post some photos of your tractor when you can.



#3 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 11:05 PM

Ya i deff will and thanks but how do i do i post a picture?
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#4 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 11:48 PM

The hydraulics best performance is running at full throttle. If it holds the tiller up for days there is nothing wrong with the cylinder seals. You could try a 30w good oil see if make a difference.


Edited by gopher, April 16, 2014 - 11:59 PM.


#5 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 11:49 PM

Ya i deff will and thanks but how do i do i post a picture?

 

 

This link will help you on adding Attachments (Photos). Let me know if you need anything else. Good Luck.

 

http://gardentractor...file-uploading/



#6 Arti OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 04:26 AM

Welcome to GT Talk Karlos

When tilling the oil gets fairly warm. 20w 40 in the hydraulic system will give a lot better performance. This is the recommended oil down to around the 0 degree temperature range for this tractor.
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#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 05:40 AM

Welcome to GTTalk! I'm not familiar with the Case tractors but I would check the valve control linkage to make sure the valve is being activated fully into the lift mode. If it's only going part way it may be restricting the flow. You either have a flow restriction or a lack of pressure to the cylinder, assuming that there is no mechanical problem that would limit the lift capacity. If you remove the tiller and the sleeve hitch lifts quickly then you have the flow you need and are probably dealing with a pressure limiting problem.



#8 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 05:43 AM

Arti is right. I think the 5w-20 your running now is getting too thin. You should try changing to 15w-40 Shell rotella or Mobil delvac. Those are two most common oils used by most Case owners. I use Shell rotella myself. The tractor, tiller, and lift systems are all running on the same oil. Heat could be your enemy here. The thinner oils (ie: 30w or less) are designated for cold weather usage 32 F and below. They will work but will not give the best performance. Hope this helps.

Eric

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#9 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 07:29 AM

Ok ill try to change the oil that and see if that makes a difference though even on initial start up it still doesnt lift even before the engine is hot and its about 40 f in my garage. i tried adjusting the control linkage and it made no difference the cylinder in the valve seems to go full travel. Brian how would i check the pressure going to the cylinder?


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Edited by Karlos, April 17, 2014 - 07:34 AM.


#10 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 10:49 AM

OK , take a look at your valve that is running the lift. If it has a "PB" port on it and that port is plugged and has nothing connected to it, you need to remove the plug and look inside... There should be another plug inside separating the passages. If this plug is missing it will not allow any pressure to build. Also if it does not have this it could have a stuck relief in this same valve both of these will have the same effects. Easy way to test is to clamp off return line to tank for a split second as the valve is being actuated. This will increase pressure and make it work fast. But make sure its at an idle so the engine will stall if you don't release the pressure quick enough... You could blow the return hose off the valve.

#11 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 07:22 PM

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397780188.771374.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397780299.734082.jpg

Heres a pic of that valve


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#12 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 07:41 PM

Are you talking about the two aluminum cap nuts with the threaded core that adjusts the spring behind them. Also should i have the system drained to open them up or can i open then with minor leakage.


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#13 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 10:21 PM

Yes, those are the reliefs. The one closest to the lift valve is most likely the culpret . your going to get oil out of it for sure. Remove the relief adjuster screw and spring and make sure you don'tloose the checkball insode that is what seals and holds to make pressure. This is most likely where your issue is, something is preventing the ball from seating or it is missing if someone was in there once before.

#14 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2014 - 11:01 PM

Hi sorry been working i tried to till today it will till but as soon as i try to drive and till it will not drive forward and i cant barely go up a hill i think the pump is shot not the valve with the lift problems it was just a symptom of my pump issues. Anyone know where i can buy a new pump i live in canada and how hard is it to change. Is the motor tough to remove? Also which pump do i buy can i tell which one i need by the tractor serial number or do i need to pull the pump? Thanks guys for all the help!!


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#15 Karlos OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2014 - 11:39 PM

Found one at acklandsgrainger if anyone ever needs one :)


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