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Ignition Problem

bad coil condenser

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#1 Mark Speece OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 01:03 PM

I am looking for help on the ignition system for a Tecumseh hh100 engine that is in my Custom 10 XL. This is giving me real fits because I drove the tractor inside the garage, it sat for maybe 2 months, now I can not get it started. The first thing I discovered is the engine in it is not the original, however the shroud over the flywheel is original. The shroud says it is electronic ignition, but the engine has a coil and condenser under the shroud and a set of points on the other side of the engine. I think the problem is in the coil, but I do not know how many Ohms it should read. When I first started checking it out, I read less than one Ohm at the input and infinity at the plug wire. Then the plug wire actually came out. This is an encapsulated coil, and when I looked into the hole where the wire came out of, I saw like a tack point in there. I then measured the coil into that point and it reads about 8.8 k Ohms, so I checked the plug wire for continuity and it read OK, I mixed up some epoxy, being careful that I did not get any on the point in the hole, I put the plug wire back in and left it sit for 24 hrs. I then rechecked it, reading from ground to inside the plug cap and it again read 8.8 k Ohms. I thought I had it solved, reassembled everything and tried it, however it did not start. I then put an inline spark tester light before the plug and it was very dim. I took out the plug and grounded it with a large wire jumper and tried cranking it, on the first revolution of the flywheel, there was one nice spark at the plug gap, then nothing. My main job is industrial electronics, so I got my capacitance tester and checked the condenser (capacitor) and it measured .25 micro Farads, not knowing what it should be, I took another .25uF capacitor and tried again, with the same results, first revolution, one good spark, then nothing. I then tried going up to a .47uF capacitor with the same results again, one nice spark then nothing. Here is where my biggest problem is, I wanted to buy another coil to try it, but I can not find one anywhere. I tried the internet, all the local mower shops within a hour, from where I live, nobody has one. If anyone could direct me in the right direction, it would be most appreciated. I live about 50 miles North West of Philadelphia, PA.

Mark



#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 01:22 PM

:wave: Welcome to the forum. Someone should be along to help in a bit!


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#3 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 02:37 PM

I would change the plug, and then clean & gap the points before I went spending money on a coil.  JM2CW.

 

P.S. Welcome to the forum.  Don't forget to report back with the cure.


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#4 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 02:38 PM

:welcometogttalk:   Have you cleaned the points?


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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 02:43 PM

It could be that the points plunger is sticking in the block, not moving the points all the time.  The plunger is no longer available (NLA), so if it's the problem, treat it with care.  It is made of some composite material and not that hard to break.  Mine was sticking, so I removed it & lightly spun it in fine emery cloth to take the varnish off it.  Once I did that, I was off & running just fine.


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#6 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 04:28 PM

As others have said, put a new spark plug in it. It is cheap and sometimes it will make a BIG difference....Ask me how I know....

Where are my manners......... :welcometogttalk:


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#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 04:42 PM

When you say you re attached the plug wire to the coil by epoxying it in do you mean that there was a socket in the coil and a contact to fit that on the plug wire? If the plug wire was never meant to come out of there and the connection was broken I don't think your repair will hold up. It could be shorting out internally giving you a weak spark. Do you still have the 8.8K ohm reading on the coil?


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#8 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 05:00 PM

Welcome to GTtalk.  Please check with some of our site sponsors they may be able to help you out with a coil.


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#9 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 05:25 PM

That is the same set up as my Suburban 10.  This is what I did.  I removed the coil and cleaned up the contacts real good as well as the flywheel magnets.  Then as I put it back on, I used an index card to set a gap as I tightened each side.   I figured it is set 7 to 10 thousandths of an inch. also, my plug wire was in rough shape, then someone told me that as you put the wire in, you need to screw it in.. that pin is like a screw so giving it a twist, helps hold it. I did end up replacing it, but I had it running with the old wire. get a wire core plug wire if you replace yours.  I still had weak spark and finally replaced the points and condenser.

That points push rod was frozen solid and doing an internet search, found someone who sold them for 5 bucks, made out of brass rod.  I miced it and it was just 9/64 rod. I have the length written down somewhere if you need it.


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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2014 - 07:23 AM

I would also be suspect of the points, either corrosion or not moving properly. Take the cover off, file them and try it again, watching for proper movement.

If all good there,clean ground to coil and change Condenser.
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#11 Mark Speece OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 10:49 AM

I want to thank everybody helping on this, I will try everything here that I have not already done. The points were cleaned and the push rod for them is working fine as far as opening and closing them. Everything that your helping has said will be tried, prior to actually changing the coil, especially since I did not find one for sale yet. Thank you all again. Best Regards, Mark  


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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 11:12 AM

Mark, I keep hearing condenser in my head on this.
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#13 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 12:07 PM

Mark, I keep hearing condenser in my head on this.

 

Hearing voices again, Alan?  :poke:  :rolling: 


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#14 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 12:09 PM

Mark, have you checked with any of our sponsors on the coil?  Ben or Bob maybe able to help you out or at least give you some direction in finding one.


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#15 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 10:47 PM

Mark, for you to be blowing condensers like that blows my mind.  I've only seen that on systems where battery voltage was being sent to a condenser, like a battery ignition system, while it should be a magneto system. 

 

I can get you a coil.  Kohler used the same coil for their magneto systems.  It is almost $100.  I also have a coil in the box stamped by the OEM manufacturer for both Tecumseh and Kohler, REPCO/Phelon.

 

You could also join my test group.  I hear reports of a very easy to find (and cheap) coil that gave spark on Kohler engines with the same mag.  I've got a couple folks trying it, but unfortunately I haven't heard anything affirmative yet.  You can always join the test group.  :wave:

 

Ben W.


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