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Gator Blades On Cub Cadet Deck


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#1 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 02:02 PM

Has anyone ever used gator blades on the older cub cadet decks. I have a 50c deck on my 782 and 1812 I would like to try them, but have no experience with them.


any thoughts... good bad or otherwise

#2 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 02:59 PM

I had then on my Sears 16/6, 42" deck, I did not like them. I bought them used off a guy, I used then for a part season ,then sold them back to him cause he liked them so much. I think they are decent for lawns that get cut regularly and short, but I was cutting 8-12" field grass and they left a lot behind. I think cause of the slot in the fins that they do not create enough vacuum to lift the grass I needed to cut.

Just my $.10 worth...inflation!


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#3 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 05:59 PM

thanks for the input .  I have never used them ,  some people swear by them. 



#4 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 06:03 PM

I don't have a Cub with that style of round end deck but I have always heard only good things about them.  They supposedly make those 50 inch decks cut worlds better.  Wish I had one of those decks on something though as I have been told they cut better on tight turns then the old decks like are used on my 107.



#5 GlenPettit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 06:23 PM

I use them on 42" Wheel Horse decks and they work great!               (I use several different WH mowing tractors)

DSCN0100.jpg

 

Place the Gator Blades just above the original blades and at 90º to them, that gives me twice the cutting edges (12 now), the grass blades are kept air-born and cut again and again until they are about 1/2" long and then thrown out.  Being that small, they fall and decompose very quickly and are not seen.  Gator blades cost about the same as regular blades ($14 @).   Both decks are shown after a whole season of cutting, both have been used about the same number of hours, no grass build-up on left RD one.

 

The black on the left deck is "Slip Spray", actually a black liquid Graphite, what farmers use to keep things sliding, like in corn chutes.  One good coating will last all season for me, about 60 hours of cutting.  Graphite stays slippery, keeping moist grass from sticking to the underside, comes in a quart can ($15 = 3 coatings), or in a Spray can ($15 = 1 coating) from TSC stores.

Glen


Edited by GlenPettit, April 03, 2014 - 06:32 PM.

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#6 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 07:32 PM

Thanks guys.  I'm thinkin of trying a set on my 50 c deck. 

Glen  I use that graphite coating on all my mowing decks its great stuff. 



#7 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 07:34 PM

I don't have a Cub with that style of round end deck but I have always heard only good things about them.  They supposedly make those 50 inch decks cut worlds better.  Wish I had one of those decks on something though as I have been told they cut better on tight turns then the old decks like are used on my 107.


the 50 c deck cuts great nice around corners, got new John Deere's on either side of me and they get envious.
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#8 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 09:25 PM

Place the Gator Blades just above the original blades and at 90º to them, that gives me twice the cutting edges (12 now), the grass blades are kept air-born and cut again and again until they are about 1/2" long and then thrown out.  Being that small, they fall and decompose very quickly and are not seen.  Gator blades cost about the same as regular blades ($14 @).   Both decks are shown after a whole season of cutting, both have been used about the same number of hours, no grass build-up on left RD one.

 

The black on the left deck is "Slip Spray", actually a black liquid Graphite, what farmers use to keep things sliding, like in corn chutes.  One good coating will last all season for me, about 60 hours of cutting.  Graphite stays slippery, keeping moist grass from sticking to the underside, comes in a quart can ($15 = 3 coatings), or in a Spray can ($15 = 1 coating) from TSC stores.

Glen

 

I like the idea of using 2 sets of blades.  How do you keep them at 90º?

 

Might try to pick up some slip spray.  I tried painting the deck, but that didn't help much.



#9 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 12:43 AM

I use them on 42" Wheel Horse decks and they work great!               (I use several different WH mowing tractors)

DSCN0100.jpg

 

Place the Gator Blades just above the original blades and at 90º to them, that gives me twice the cutting edges (12 now), the grass blades are kept air-born and cut again and again until they are about 1/2" long and then thrown out.  Being that small, they fall and decompose very quickly and are not seen.  Gator blades cost about the same as regular blades ($14 @).   Both decks are shown after a whole season of cutting, both have been used about the same number of hours, no grass build-up on left RD one.

 

The black on the left deck is "Slip Spray", actually a black liquid Graphite, what farmers use to keep things sliding, like in corn chutes.  One good coating will last all season for me, about 60 hours of cutting.  Graphite stays slippery, keeping moist grass from sticking to the underside, comes in a quart can ($15 = 3 coatings), or in a Spray can ($15 = 1 coating) from TSC stores.

Glen

Glen, great idea with the two blade set up. But as for keeping them at a 90, how do you accomplish that? Don't they move around?

Also as far as grass buildup. The deck on the right has baffles and side discharge so the clippings have to go around through the front to exit the discharge opening, where the left deck is a rear discharge and no baffles, so the clippings exit a much bigger opening which would leave less debris, correct? Or am I missing something? :watch_over_fence:



#10 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 08:59 AM

I kinda like the 6 blade decks.   bet the grass  flies coming out the chute. 



#11 GlenPettit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 09:30 AM

• Keeping blade at 90º:  they tend to stay there - the RD left one is for the nice grass, well groomed so it's use is actually very gentle. The right one is for the field (4 acres, sheep pasture) and get much rougher use, and the blades do wander some with clumps.  When installing, I put two drops of 'Blue Thread locker' between each pair of blades and on the threads. Also, I use a thinner nut, about 1/4" instead of the 1/2" standard 7/8" nut.

• I do also have a 36" side discharge I use in the woods that has baffles, yes, baffles will slow the grass discharge . . . now I have Slip spray in all decks and it does reduce clotting in the side discharge decks, but not eliminate it, but when dry the clumps fall out easily.  The side discharges do throw the clippings much further, like twice as far now with the Gator Blades and much finer, looks like a mist in the air.  Have used Gator blades 10 years now, by having them slightly higher, they need a lot less sharpening and really show no wear, the lower blades take all the nicks.

• With the rear discharge, yes I got significant grass build-up and clumping on the front before the slip spray & gator blades, but none now (even with a little early morning dew on the grass blades).  With the side discharge, the dew will cause it to throw out small clumps. Personally, I like the "fine - neat - smooth" cut of the rear discharge and getting close with either side, but a lot of people will argue otherwise. Sharp blades are essential.

• I believe the extra three blades act a little like a flywheel, adding 2-3# of spinning weight to each spindle and keeps the momentum spinning maybe better - these decks have good bearings inside, both top & bottom, haven't noticed any extra wear, but the bearings are easy to replace, zerks are lub'd every 10 hours.


Edited by GlenPettit, April 04, 2014 - 09:33 AM.

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#12 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 09:55 AM

When you apply the slip-coat do you remove the paint that is left on the deck... as in media blast them first?



#13 GlenPettit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 02:46 PM

I stripped the shell down to the bare metal; etched, primed, and painted Aluminum white, lightly sanded then brushed on Slip Coat (but sprayed the spindle housing) [I'm known for "overkill"].  The White lets me easily see where the black Slip-plate is wearing off when I need to re-coat.   But, I think a real good cleaning to get down to the original paint would be enough, the sanding lets the slip=plate get a slight 'bite' into the paint.

 

Be sure to always wax the top of the deck each year, that "grass juice" is a real caustic acid that quickly eats through scratches in paint, and along with rust, eats through the metal.   Rather than a water rinse, we have a air-hose always available outside to blast dirt and grass off, done on the grass by the barn, works on dirty shovels & tools also and my wife doesn't mind using dry air for cleaning 'her tractor' (including blowing her dusty-self off after mowing).


Edited by GlenPettit, April 04, 2014 - 02:52 PM.

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#14 pattonacres OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 03:59 PM

Rob I had them on my last 782 44" and I thought they did well



#15 oldironmm OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2014 - 11:13 PM

I have them also on a 44" deck on a 782 and a 1250. I wouldn't use anything different. On the new Cubs (LT1045) I wish I had used something different. They seem to plug up, I think it may be because of the speed of the deck. New one has a faster speed than the 782 and 1250. Good luck.
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