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Bolens Large Frame Brake Setup


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#1 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 11:01 PM

I need someone with a Bolens 1886 or similar to tell me if the brake setup is correct on OldBuzzard's 1886 or not.  I wouldn't doubt it, except it doesn't feel right to me, and since the tractor has been wrecked (bending up the forward/reverse pedal and ripping off the dash) there's a possibility incorrect repairs had been attempted back in the day.

 

Here's the way it is now, and the way it came to me:

 

IMG_8381.JPG IMG_8382.JPG

 

It may be correct, but my feeling is that it is tight.  There is no free play in the brake pedal (although there really isn't anyway there could be free play, so heck with that statement.)

 

The spring that is supposed to help return the pedal to neutral can't do its job because the linkage rubs tight on the fan guard.  My foot on the brake has trouble stopping the tractor.  And I've eaten my Wheaties. 

 

I'm wondering if that long linkage shouldn't run on top of the fan guard. 

 

Ben W.


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#2 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 11:23 PM

The washer should be there I forget myself if the rod goes on top or bottom I would have to look.

 

A brake on these is not really needed if your good with working the hydro with the pedal you never need a brake.   I have never in my use of a large frame had to use the brake.  Only use I can see is on a hill.   


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#3 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 11:44 PM

Yeah, the hydro does a good job of braking.

 

The only time I use the brake on the large frames is as a parking brake. 

 

In fact, the 1250, HT20 and HT23 Owners Manuals all say: "Use when being moved manually or freewheeling".

 

I'm going to assume that the 1886 manual would have said the same.


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#4 MyBolens1053 ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 11:48 PM

Surely not a challenge to your work, but, did you check the brake pad adjustment?

 

DISC BRAKES
After every 50 operating hours check clearance of
brake pads. If there is more than .010 inch clearance
between the brake pads and brake disc (see
Ref. "A"), the brakes need adjustment. To adjust
place brake pedal in the OFF position, then turn
nut (Ref. "B") clockwise to bring the brake pads
closer to the brake disc. The correct clearance is
0 to .010 inch.
NOTE: Be sure to adjust the brakes on both
wheels equalty to avoid uneven braking.
Check lor proper operation."

 

Seems the rod isn't to travel too far to begin with from the pivot shaft. I believe the brake rod moves upward by the pivot shaft when the pedal is pushed. And looking at the photo it looks like it's bending upward toward the pivot shaft now where it goes under the fan guard. My guess is that is goes above.


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#5 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 11:56 PM

Only brake on these large frames that worked as a parking brake were on the HTs.   

 

The eaton 12 should be in park at all time when your foot is off the pedal.     

Worst things about the brakes on these is the pedal should be on the left. Only large frame with a brake pedal on the left is my prototype 1886.... 


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#6 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 12:02 AM

Surely not a challenge to your work, but, did you check the brake pad adjustment?

 

DISC BRAKES
After every 50 operating hours check clearance of
brake pads. If there is more than .010 inch clearance
between the brake pads and brake disc (see
Ref. "A"), the brakes need adjustment. To adjust
place brake pedal in the OFF position, then turn
nut (Ref. "B") clockwise to bring the brake pads
closer to the brake disc. The correct clearance is
0 to .010 inch.
NOTE: Be sure to adjust the brakes on both
wheels equalty to avoid uneven braking.
Check lor proper operation."

 

Seems the rod isn't to travel too far to begin with from the pivot shaft. I believe the brake rod moves upward by the pivot shaft when the pedal is pushed. And looking at the photo it looks like it's bending upward toward the pivot shaft now where it goes under the fan guard. My guess is that is goes above.

 

 

 

Sounds like the sundstrand 15 or eaton 11 not the eaton 12 in this tractor.

 

I'll look tomorrow I'll have the 1886-03 with FEL out doing some yard work I'll see what way the rod goes if it still has it.  Or I may have to look at one of my other 15+ LF with eaton 12 in them.


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#7 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 05:22 AM

... Worst things about the brakes on these is the pedal should be on the left. ...

 

 

Indeed.

 

Sure would like to know who made the decision to put the brake on the right side instead of the left, and more importantly WHY.


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#8 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 06:35 AM

I realize we don't need the brake, and I never even tried it out until I was hooking things back up yesterday.  I just would like it to be available, so Dave can stop while he goes careening around the yard at 85 miles and hour.  :D

 

Indeed.

 

Sure would like to know who made the decision to put the brake on the right side instead of the left, and more importantly WHY.

 

It sure would have been more user friendly.  Its hard to get my big fat foot on it where it is now.

 

Ben W.


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#9 wilberj ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 09:59 PM

I realize we don't need the brake, and I never even tried it out until I was hooking things back up yesterday.  I just would like it to be available, so Dave can stop while he goes careening around the yard at 85 miles and hour.  :D

 

 

It sure would have been more user friendly.  Its hard to get my big fat foot on it where it is now.

 

Ben W.

 

 

Does this help?

 

1kokok 001.jpg


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#10 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2014 - 05:28 AM

Does this help?

 

Yep.  I think that solves it.  Thanks Jerome.  :thumbs:

 

Ben W.


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