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Tecumseh Ssi Replacement


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#1 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 07:29 PM

So I have been scouring the internet looking for a kit to convert my dead ignition on my HH120 Tecky engine. I have looked at enginesandmagnets  and A-1 Miller's and i'm not sure if i'm finding what i'm looking for as i have never attempted this before. Any help would be appreciated.

 

:help:   


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#2 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 08:15 PM

This is one of the most common problems for Tecumseh engines, and the one probably hardest to fix. 

 

I have used Ed Stoller's engines and magnets website to help some of my customers needing SSI units.  They do work.  It is not easy.  At one point, I was planning to make a unit and try selling them as a replacement, but it has not materialized yet.  It is a lot of work.

 

There are SSI units on eBay right now if you really want one.  Without knowing your HH120 spec I can't tell you which you need.   

 

Ben W.


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#3 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 08:42 PM

So I have been scouring the internet looking for a kit to convert my dead ignition on my HH120 Tecky engine. I have looked at enginesandmagnets and A-1 Miller's and i'm not sure if i'm finding what i'm looking for as i have never attempted this before. Any help would be appreciated.

:help:

You're on the right track with Ed's system. Threre is a ready made one from http://overnight-sol...s.com/index.htm and Tahoe has done some converting. http://gardentractor...ycoil-ignition/
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#4 MYMF10 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 08:44 PM

Well this probably wont help you to find one but when i bought my Massey Ferguson 10 the person i got it off of converted to an MSD ignition on it and it worked good.

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#5 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 08:58 PM

Im not 100% sure that it's the ssi unit. It may be the stator under the flywheel......either way its not cheap. Is there a way to test one without the other?

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#6 MYMF10 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 09:47 PM

Well Im not the best when it comes to wiring and stuff but when I lost spark on my tractor the has a 10 horse Tecumseh on it I just unplugged the three wires coming out of the engine and it had spark so I knew it wasn't internal.

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#7 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 05:36 AM

Just stumbled onto the post I was thinking of. A member here did a Stoller conversion here: http://gardentractor...nition/?p=77022


Im not 100% sure that it's the ssi unit. It may be the stator under the flywheel......either way its not cheap. Is there a way to test one without the other?
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As for testing the stator. Mr Stoller covers it pretty well on his site, but here is the nuts and bolts.
** WARNING, This Will Shock You, DO NOT DO if you are concerned for your health from electric shock**
**Keep all body parts a safe distance away from any moving engine parts or anything that could cause you injury**
(Sorry, have to do that from time to time)
Disconnect the wire that goes up to the kill switch. Tighten the terminal again with the wire that goes inside still under it.
Pinch the terminal between your first finger and thumb and jam you pinky against the flywheel tin. Have someone else turn it over (do not do it yourself as you'll get juiced in the other hand too, the key is grounded)
You will feel a tingle in your left hand. Ed refers to it as the "tickle test", I like to think of it more as akin to testing a 9 volt on your tongue. However you want to think of it, you will know its working if you get that sensation. I believe it's higher voltage but very low amps and because of the way it's generated, might be hard to accurately test with a digital meter.

If you still don't get anything, pull the wires out from under the screw and only hold the one that goes back under the tin from the stator.
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#8 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 05:38 AM

Well Im not the best when it comes to wiring and stuff but when I lost spark on my tractor the has a 10 horse Tecumseh on it I just unplugged the three wires coming out of the engine and it had spark so I knew it wasn't internal.
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That sounds like a bad ignition switch. Does it have good continuous spark with that wire unplugged?
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#9 MYMF10 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 06:26 AM

Yeah that's what it was I got it fixed now.

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#10 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 09:11 AM

Well this probably wont help you to find one but when i bought my Massey Ferguson 10 the person i got it off of converted to an MSD ignition on it and it worked good.

 

I would love to see details on that conversion, I'm curious on what they used for a pickup and coil.

 

 

I've had to learn way more than I wanted to about these SSI modules/ignitions. I went through 2 modules in 1 month and have 3 tractors that use them.

 

MH81 has posted some good info, I recommend you read Ed's website and he explains what tests you can do to determine what is good and bad.

Looks like you probably have an early gen system since you are working on an HH motor, mine are all later yrs OH160's, but info should be similar.

*First, make sure it's not the ignition switch going bad. Unplug the wires between the regulator and stator as they house the kill wire too.

*Check to make sure plug wire is pushed solidly into module. The are push in and epoxied from factory and can work lose.

*Make sure you do not have an chaffed wires. I also dealt with the feed wire from stator was bare as it comes out from under

   flywheel tin, it was grounding out on block.

* Stators usually do not go bad unless a wire comes lose, broke or they somehow get damaged. I burnt one up as I got water under

   flywheel then ran it with a chaffed wire. Still looking for a replacement.

 

I think Ed lists the resistance readings on his website for the different circuits.

Off the top of my head,

4000-7000 ohms for spark plug wire

125-150 ohms for feed wire from stator

 

If you figure you want a direct "plug in" replacement, go with the Overnight solutions ignition. Dale has done a great job in keeping the system as a stock one. All others convert to a battery ignition.

If you decide to convert to Ed's or Miller's system which converts system to a battery-coil set up, I would recommend buying from Ed's link to his buddy Mike Brown who sells a complete kit.

I have a buddy who designed a simple system for my tractor using jsut a pickup and coil, MH81 linked to my conversion also.

No matter how you cut it, for do a conversion you are in it at about $150. I recommend staying away from Ebay used modules, I can't see wasting that much money for a 40yr old part that may fail tomorrow when you can buy new systems with updated electronics and replaceable parts.

There are coming to light a lot of new sysems for these old tractors as guys are coming up with ways to get around the non working systems. Just need a way to trigger a coil to fire the plug and you are set.


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#11 GTpicker01 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 10:29 AM

Sounds good guys thanks for all the help. I have 4 tractors with the solid state ignition and this is the first one to go bad so I guess I should consider myself lucky. Another thing, when I bought this tractor I figured I was buying a basket case because every electronic piece from the switch to the engine had been replaced. Maybe the previous owner put a wrong switch on and fried things. I'll have to do some investigating. Ill take some pics and post them here and see what you guys think.

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#12 MYMF10 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 11:20 AM

These are the only pictures I have when it was on the tractor. But I changed the the engine and put a oh160 Tecumseh so I took off there setup. I don't know how much this is going to show you but I hope it helps you alittle bit.

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Attached Thumbnails

  • uploadfromtaptalk1395936695047.jpg
  • uploadfromtaptalk1395936761162.jpg
  • uploadfromtaptalk1395936791188.jpg

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#13 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 01:14 PM

These are the only pictures I have when it was on the tractor. But I changed the the engine and put a oh160 Tecumseh so I took off there setup. I don't know how much this is going to show you but I hope it helps you alittle bit.

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Thanks.

How was the trigger set up on the crank?

 

 

If he did put in wrong switch then yeah, could've very well fired your module.

Should be the same for your  tractor, here is the back of the switch from my 16.

 

Untitled.jpg


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#14 MYMF10 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 01:42 PM

I have my tractor apart right now for painting so I will probably be needing help making a new wiring so all this information will help me alot!!

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#15 MYMF10 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 02:47 PM

I'm not sure about what they used for the trigger.






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