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My electrolysis tank setup for the garden tractors.


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#61 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2011 - 02:46 PM

I feel sure the SE-4020 will do a great job.

#62 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2011 - 03:07 PM

I hope so ,that was the best part of the other video, very little going on for most of the vid., then a big bloop!!!:bigrofl:

All in good fun George .

#63 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2011 - 04:25 PM

I think the big charger SE-4020 will do fine, I tried 3 or 4 different chargers on my 50 us gal drum setup even took some voltage and amp readings, found that the biggest charger I used (similar to the 4020) worked the fastest. Was able to get the highest volt + amp readings from the anodes to the part in the tank with that charger.
But if the anodes were not clean the amps dropped off fast.
I found that after 3 pieces had been put though the tank it didn't seem to work any more until you cleaned the anodes.
The key to keeping it working fast is to clean the anodes, I was cleaning mine after every piece that I put in it. Found the fastest way was to use the bench grinder with a wire wheel on it, or the angle grinder with a wire wheel will do the same job.

#64 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 10:01 AM

Well I got home last night and the amp gauge on the big charger was showing 20 amps and was set on the 40 amp charge setting. We shut it down and pulled the parts out of the tank. The paint on the hood was bubbling in a few spots and cleaned off pretty easy but there is still a lot of untouched areas. So we pulled the rebar cage out of the tank and wire brushed the reabr and hosed it off. Then I took my 4" grinder and did a quick cleaning of the rebar.

We put the cage back in the tank and only put the hood in the tank this time and hung it upright from both ends. Turned everything back on and it is showing about 25 amps on the gauge. I think one thing we might need to do differently is to clean a bare spot on the part and then use an alligator clip to put the ground to it. I don't think we are getting a good enough contact since we just ran wire through a couple of openings to suspend the part. At the rate it is going though that hood will have to be in the big tank for a week and in all honesty if that is the case I would rather just sandblast it.

#65 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 10:02 AM

The other thing I want to do is get some 1/4" x 4" flat stock to use as accessory anodes and wire to the rebar cage to make for easier cleaning.

#66 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 05:21 PM

So the tank is still outside in the cold? All I've read is they need to be used in warm environment. I did a hood in less than 24hrs, but it was summer & it got the water pretty darned warm.

#67 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 06:29 PM

I found that the worse the condition of the paint the better it worked, I don't think it does a good job on removing good paint on a part, I notice that is does soften it up some and to use the angle grinder with the wire wheel on the part that you just took out of the tank worked fast at removing the good paint.

#68 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 06:39 PM

Well the electrolysis method definitely isn't winning me over yet. It is working but not near as fast as I thought it would and the left over scraping is going to end up driving me nuts.

Yes everything is outside right now so maybe the temp does have an ill affect on it?

#69 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 07:38 PM

I was worried about you trying this in cold weather. I never figured I'd do any electrolysis again until warm weather returns.

#70 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 10:16 PM

Since you are able to monitor the amps maybe you should start expirementing with the electrolyte. See if adding more will increase the amp draw through the solution. It seems to me if you are only getting half the amps it will work half as slow.

#71 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2011 - 10:23 PM

Did a little looking around on this. It appears that the conductivity of your average fresh water drops by about 2% per degree Centigrade. The equation is not linear, however and the more temperature drop, the less the 2% rule works. Going from 25 degrees to 10 degrees, the conductivity actually drops by about 2/3rds. You're at freezing (approx), so you're going to be much lower. I am not figuring in for the electrolytes, but the basic ideas should be sound.

Going up in temperature has a diminishing return. The curve begins to level off at 25-30 degrees C & there is very little difference beyond 30.

Summary: conductivity in water (and thus supposedly electrolysis) should be best above 20 degrees C (or 70 F).

Reference material: http://www.reagecon....P-07_Issue3.pdf

#72 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2011 - 06:16 AM

I guess we might have to try putting some heat tape on the tank to get the water temperature up. Either that or wait till spring. I do have high hopes for the electrolysis method but right now it isn't doing as well as I thought it would. I might be taking some parts down to the local guy that does sandblasting and save the smaller stuff for the small tank.

#73 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2011 - 08:24 AM

We are going to pull the parts out of the tanks and drain them tonight. It is supposed to get down to 8 degrees on Friday. Might put the tanks away until spring. It was worth a shot though and I am sure it will be worth it once the weather warms up.

In the meantime I am going to decide what I want to do with the Case.




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