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It Followed Me Home From The Country, Can I Keep It?!


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#31 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2014 - 11:07 PM

So the honeymoon is ending much sooner than I had hoped... The PO and I had talked for a while before I left with the tractor, and he told me that basically this project was something he was doing in his spare time, but he needed money so he quickly put it all together to sell it.  We discussed how there were a good number of "tweaks" that it would need, but we have some serious issues at play here.

 

What really ended the honeymoon quick was putting out an electrical fire that nearly turned into a fuel fire.  The non-insulated portion of the choke cable was routed directly over the terminals for the starter/generator.  Nothing major, the only thing that actually seems to have burned was some of the insulation on the choke cable. 

 

Where the carb was leaking out, the paint on the engine and some of the white frame bits have come off.  The engine seems to be running very hot- likely due to this carb problem, maybe due to timing.  The flooding issue is not helping me diagnose anything here...so the carb has to come off to figure out why the float is stuck.  At least I'm hoping it's just stuck, or something got into the seat... rather than the float being full of fuel...

 

I honestly hate working on carbs, I hate gasoline in general.  I'm a diesel guy at heart.  Seems a shame to pull this matching paint engine out to put something else in, but based on Tahoe's comment - I question if this is even the original engine.

 

Spending so much time underneath the tractor and under the hood, I'm really impressed at the lengths he went to during painting - the whole tractor is painted top and bottom.  But most of the white, or at least the hood, looks like a brush job.  Maybe he brushed some on to cover up some nicks in the paint from pulling the hood up while the loader was lifted up too high.  In the fenders and on some parts of the frame, there's some bubbles and orange peel, so it's not a super top-notch paint job, but it still looks nice.  Despite little glitches, it still looks good, and generally the adhesion seems that it's good enough it ought to wear well.

 

I lubed all the lube points, he stated that he had not.  Steering is less stiff now, but the bell crank plate that connects the drag link and tie rods together is *very* tight still.  Nothing like the silky smooth turning of my SS18.

 

The brake wasn't working because it wasn't connected (remember, I highlighted project and quickly above)  It probably was connected when I test drove it, but probably bounced out while on the way home, since there was no cotter pin in the link.  The idler pulley is really noisy, I didn't think to check the tensioner pulley, but I did move the idler down a bit (it was all the way at the top) and I was trying to get the thing to run so I could test to see if it would bite and not drag the brake.

 

Also, another thing he told me is that the seat isn't original (duh), but he didn't tell me he left nearly 2" of seat bolt hanging out the bottom, so it's digging into the oil tank for the hydraulic system.

 

This would have been a perfect trailer queen/show machine with a little extra work, but not something whose overall perfect looks would have stood up for very long with much actual work going on.  I didn't buy it because it was a looker, I bought it because it was a complete tractor/loader combo that ran and worked.  It just didn't run or work for very long. :)

 

It will again, soon... I really need to move this dirt, and get more once this pile is gone.  And more once that pile is gone... ad infinitum...


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#32 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2014 - 11:12 PM

Oh, forgot to mention... the FUEL LINE was also routed right over the part of the choke cable that was shorting out across the motor/generator.  The choke cable got hot enough that it did melt the fuel line enough to make it stick to the cable.  This, and the fuel that was dripping in the front of the engine bay were the reasons why I said "nearly a fuel fire".

 

Yeah, I know I'm stupid for trying to run it when I knew fuel was leaking in the engine bay... I just wasn't going to run it for long, and my extinguisher was 5 steps away.  Thankfully I didn't need to use it.

 

Also, despite the little things and my disgust over some of them... I still feel I got a great deal on the thing.


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#33 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 12:23 AM

I know you're in a rush to use it, but be patient and do one thing at a time. Get a rebuild kit for the carb and straighten out that ignition. Myself, I would put an original ignition back in it. I bought a 71 Suburban that was not running a few weeks back. The PO stripped the main jet seat threads in the carb and the carb flange was badly warped from over tightening it. It had a bad oil leak due to a snapped off case cover bolt and a crusty case cover gasket. The fuel line was dried out, the ignition and lights wouldn't work, and the idlers were noisy. The flywheel and flywheel pulley were shot and needed to be replaced.The electrical issue was just a bad negative battery cable. I replaced the carb with an LME I rebuilt,replaced the fuel line, replaced the flywheel, flywheel pulley and pulley bolts, replaced the voltage regulator and ignition switch (didn't need to but did), replaced the case cover gasket, valve cover and carb gaskets, broken case cover bolt and crankshaft oil seal, replaced the noisy idlers' added 1/2 qt. of oil to the transaxle, and fresh engine oil.
Well, I put the plow on it yesterday afternoon so I could start straightening out the driveway. It started right up like a new machine, idles and runs perfect, and I spent a couple of hours working on the driveway without any issues and no more leaks and noisy idlers.
It's worth the effort to fix every problem as it should be fixed. It's great to get on these old machines running and operating like new. Get that loader in order and enjoy the heck out of it!
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#34 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 07:53 AM

Hmm, that seems odd... since it has breaker points. :)

 

It's a B&S, Cast iron, but I don't know what model, any labels are long gone. The old spark plug wire from the magneto is still hanging out of the fan shroud.  The coil is wired up as one would expect for points/condenser ignition.  I've never been much of a B&S guy, all I've ever really done on B&S engines is clean/gap plugs, change the oil, pull the rope and go. :)

 

DOH, I'm stupid. I was thinking it was a Tecusmeh, didn't pay attn that it was a B&S.

Stupid replies come from a long work day and then playing on the internet :wallbanging:  :D


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#35 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 08:17 AM

That "Flo-Jet" carb is notorious for the emulsion tube not being sealed tight at it's seat.  It will cause fuel leak out the bottom of the carb, just like a stuck float/leaking needle.  This tube is under the main jet adjustment screw assembly & MUST come out before splitting the upper & lower halves of the carb.  They can sometimes be very difficult to remove, so be sure to have a screwdriver with a tip full width of the whole & with a good square tip.  I have a screwdriver I ground the sides off so it fits into the hole and provides a full with flat tip.   Sometimes the leak at this tube seat is simply a loose tube, and sometimes there is erosion of the aluminum seat base.  I have ground a bolt to the proper angle then used it with valve lapping compound to hone the seat.  One can also use a tiny gasket from another Briggs carb on this seat & gives good results.  I'll see if I can dig up the part number.


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#36 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 08:58 AM

It's worth the effort to fix every problem as it should be fixed. It's great to get on these old machines running and operating like new. Get that loader in order and enjoy the heck out of it!

 

Yeah, I guess I let the appearance override what I heard him say, and just got straight to work with it like as if it was like new.  Not all of the hoses need replacement, but the few that look the worst and/or are leaking will get replaced first.  I'm not so worried about the cylinder and valve leaks, and after having slept on it I seem to recall he told me he rebuilt the dump cylinders, but just didn't touch the lift cylinders or the valve bodies, and said the valve body (for the dump cylinder) just started leaking the day I came to get it.  He also hadn't noticed the one lift cylinder leaking until I pointed it out, it looked like a freshly started leak at the time.

 

I also want to put a filter on it, since it has none.  Now... I've built hyd hoses before, back when I worked in a shop, and I've replaced hyd parts before (I'm not dumb enough to, say, try and put my hand over a spraying hyd hose leak... the old man who showed me the evidence of how he learned that lesson has stuck with me since my younger days!) but I've never paid much attention to where in the system the filter goes.  I would presume on the suction side of the pump, so it filters what's coming from the tank.

 

I was thinking it was a Tecusmeh, didn't pay attn that it was a B&S.

 

 

No worries, I don't think I mentioned it was a B&S before then, and not sure how easily it could be determined by the pics. :)  I only know because he said it was, and because the shroud has the old B&S embossed to the left of the flywheel air inlet.

 

I'll see if I can dig up the part number.

 

Excellent, thank you sir!!!



#37 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 02:05 PM

Actually, most suction sides just have a screen, with the filter on the return side.  But thinking it better on the suction side, when I built my loader, I put my filter on the suction side.  That worked fine in warm weather, but in cold weather I had severe cavitation, so I moved it to the return side & haven't had problems since.


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#38 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 02:27 PM

Here is a link to the synthetic gasket I spoke of on ebay.  It's made for a carb for a small 3 1/2hp engine with a Pulsajet carb, but it works great as a seal for eroded main jet tube seats.  It comes with a roll pin which you don't need.  If you get one of these you'll think "what the heck, I could have made that", but it's the type material that makes it resist gas, plus it's very thin.  The Briggs part # is 391413, but that will be a 10 pack.  The 10 pack is only around $8 though, so you might check your local parts place.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...2638499?lpid=82


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#39 ericjr16 ONLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2014 - 07:55 PM

Great find and great looking machine!!!!!


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#40 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 09:45 PM

So a bit of an update here...

 

Tore open the carb last night, found the problem... there was junk in the float valve seat.  Cleaned it, put it back together, re-installed it.

 

Come home tonight, and get it running and tuned, found a problem with the way the governor linkage was set up, fixed that, then it was running better.  Still doesn't govern as strong as it should, so moving the spring up the arm a bit seems it will be in order.

 

Ran it a while, dug into my big compost pile (which hasn't been turned in months because I got too lazy to use the pitchfork on it), which has been dry and cold, so it wasn't really composting much.  Then started having some problems again.  Found the plug wire keeps popping off and/or grounding out on the hood.  It's not a right-angle arrangement, so something will have to be done with that.

 

Then I found the carb leaking again....

 

It was only at that moment that I had a serious "DUH" moment... there's no fuel filter on this thing... *sigh*

 

Even with me dialing it in as best as I could, it's still not quite as good as it should be.  The idle climbs a bit still, but I'm sure I can work that out.

 

If not, this may become my first diesel conversion tractor... I really hate working on gas engines, I hate storing gas, I hate the smell of gas.  But I also hate tearing a working engine out.

 

I'll try to remain positive in closing... at least the muffler didn't fall off this time!


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#41 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 08:26 PM


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#42 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 09:51 PM

Thanks for posting the video. It's amazing how useful these garden tractor loaders are. Is that the hydraulic pump drive belt squeaking? My Cub was doing that when I first got it and it turned out that they had a pipe plug for the hydraulic tank fill cap. I installed a vented cap and haven't had any problems since. Just a heads up in case that's the squeak I'm hearing.
I just watched the video again and it seems like the squeak is either the clutch pedal or drive belt, no biggie.

Edited by classic, March 27, 2014 - 10:00 PM.

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#43 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 10:58 PM

I just watched the video again and it seems like the squeak is either the clutch pedal or drive belt, no biggie.

 

Yep, that's the one.  The idler pulleys seem to have got some paint as well, and because of that I can see a hot spot on one of them.  Belt's glazed and cracked.   Both need replacement.  Don't much want to push it back to the shop... but one thing at a time.



#44 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 11:33 PM

It's all minor stuff and like you said, one thing at a time. I just bought a roll of the same rubber material that sears used for your foot rests. I'm making a set for my 69' Suburban and a set for my 71' Suburban. I'm using originals for patterns,so these new ones will be exact copies. I have plenty of material, so if you want a pair just let me know.
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#45 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 06:39 AM

Love that loader. Having something like that is on my bucket (pardon the pun) list.
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