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New To Forum; Question About Mower Decks


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#16 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 19, 2014 - 07:52 AM

I have a late's 80's model that is similar. That one looks to be a bit heavier though than mine as it has bigger rear tires/wheels.

 

As for the deck, check your local craiglslist, these things get parted on a regular basis. I know of a local guy that probably has 3-4 decks that would fit that tractor. You shoudl have very little trouble finding a deck to work.

if you want, I can try to snap a few pics of mine tonight ( if I can remember) and post them of the deck so you can see what you are looking for. Granted, it's on the tractor in a dark barn, but maybe able to give you an idea of mounting and idea as to what it looks like.

I know mine is pain in the rear to get level. It has two trailing arms that mount it in front to the frame, they adjust the front to back position and then 2 fixed lift arms. I have a bear of a time getting teh rear of the deck level side to side, ended up being one of the lift arms up on the one side.

 

 

Check the frame where the front axle pocket sits. I had to have mine plated/welded on both sides as it cracked the frame right in the pocket area.



#17 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2014 - 08:40 PM

Sorry, late to catch this post. here is my 917-254450 known as RED. The Pearless 6 speed is good on this tractor but I would add grease just to extend it's service. Here is how I do mine. http://gardentractor...le-grease-easy/

 

This attests to the strength of the tranny. Please don't flame me, we were bored. https://www.youtube....h?v=kd-ucxYlzeU

 

And this was my restore. https://www.youtube....h?v=s0WeKMmfwOo

 

Closest I can tell it is a 1990 year.


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#18 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 09:09 AM

Welcome to GTtalk.  I think TX_DJ and OCH has pretty much answered your question on the tiller.  In addition to looking at Craigslist and ebay you may also see if there is a junk yard in your area that also has GT's or maybe a yard that deals nothing but GT's.  But as TX said you may find it easier to have one Tractor that is dedicated to each type of task.


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#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 07:00 PM

:welcome: to GTTalk.
Plus one for using the tiller with that machine. I see no reason why not.

The manual does spec ( http://www.managemyl...NM/L0801038.pdf ) it as a Garden Tractor. I would tend to argue that its more of a "LGT" (lighter than a GT, but heavier than a Lawn Tractor). I wouldn't hook up to a big plow or any major ground engaging pieces, but tillers and rollers and trailers should be fine.

Larry has a pretty good idea of the stamina of these machines, he's been using (and abusing :smilewink: ) his for many years and they continue to be valuable workhorses.

#20 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 08:10 PM

I really don't abuse them :D really. They all get pampered, detailed, and showed as often as I can. Oh, and they all are working machines that pull their own weight. Red mowes the 2.5 acres almost every weekend, BMP totes the trailer around for yard pickup, and Hulk II pulls the cut Cedar branches out back. All three could tow a self powered tiller, but I think I would prefer BMP for that chore as he has a hydro tranny and I can control the speed precisely. I take all of them to the shows and park close to the Big Boys. But I can compete with the racers.

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#21 LTM OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 08:35 PM

Well I have not done much with the deck issue as the steering was a problem.  When I turned the wheels to the right, there was a popping noise. I began to take things apart and noticed that the gears were separating and slipping.  I got on Sears Parts Direct and ordered a new bushing kit and a new nyliner.  I took everything apart and put in the new parts.  For only about 15 dollars with parts and shipping, the steering is now tight and works perfect. It has to be just like it came from the factory. There is only about two inches of play in the steering.  From what I read anything less than a quarter turn is good so two inches has to be darn near as perfect as it can get.  

 

After I got this all back together, I tried to start it and she would not turn over.  Nothing.  tried to jump the battery off my truck but still it would not start. I jumped the poles on the solenoid and she turned over and started.  I am guessing the key switch is bad.  Would it be wise to change this or could it be something else like a problem with the pressure switch under the seat?

 

I have looked on Pennswoods Classifieds and Craigslist but have not found anything local.  I found this deck    deck.jpg in Ohio which is the exact one for my model.  I just cannot drive 500 miles round trip to get it and also pay the price the guy wants.  It would be much cheaper to find another tractor locally that I could use just for mowing as suggested in earlier posts.  

 

Thank you everyone for your advice and input.  It has been very beneficial.  

 

LTM



#22 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 09:16 PM

 

After I got this all back together, I tried to start it and she would not turn over.  Nothing.  tried to jump the battery off my truck but still it would not start. I jumped the poles on the solenoid and she turned over and started.  I am guessing the key switch is bad.  Would it be wise to change this or could it be something else like a problem with the pressure switch under the seat?

 

 

 

Excellent work on the steering rebuild.  I've been really lucky so far that I've not had to do anything with the steering on my tractors.  The FEL rig is most likely to need steering work, due to the extra weight on the front end.

 

As for the starting problem - I'd test the seat switch first - if you have a multimeter, set it to either Ohms or Continuity Test (the beeper) and put one probe to chassis ground and the other to the switch terminal, and trip the switch.  You should get continuity in one position, but not the other.  If that works, out, you need to figure out the wiring to the key switch and test it.

 

Eliminate little things before replacing big things.  Sounds like you're already on the right train of thought there though.

 

Also, you might have other "kill" switches on your rig- for example, my SS18 has a clutch safety switch - it will not crank unless you have the clutch pedal depressed.  My Troy-Bilt won't start or run if the mower clutch is engaged, and actually has two kill switches on the seat- one keeps you from cranking it if you're not sitting on it, the other kills the engine if you get off with the transmission in gear.

 

It can be tricky to decipher the wiring diagrams sometimes, but they should be available for your tractor (the manual link earlier in this thread ought to have it).  Figuring out what all can keep you from starting is where to start from before assuming a switch issue.



#23 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2014 - 09:29 PM

Great job on the steering! I converted my plastic bushings to brass. As for the starting issue Pull the connectors from the ignition switch and PTO switch and spray contact cleaner in the connector and on the switches. Re-install the connectors. This is a common problem on RED and HulkII. Easy FIX.



#24 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 08:11 AM

That deck has a different mount than mine, guess I'm out in the help ya section  :(

 

I would make sure you check all theh safety switches, you may have a seat one, clutch one, and mowing deck one. If any are tripped or went bad, it won't start. You can do a temporary jumper line on them to test, but if bad, make sure you replace.

I know I fought with one forever for not starting, seems my mowing deck engagemnet lever was lifted just slightly enough to trip safety.


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#25 larrybl OFFLINE  

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Posted April 17, 2014 - 06:57 PM

The PTO switch has a safety switch internal with the PTO. I have had problems with mine and had to get a new one. (CAUTION) Do not try and dissemble this switch, it has more springs and contact balls than you have fingers required to hold all in place to re-assemble. Don't ask how I know.






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