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Leaks Repair ?


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#1 PennsylvaniaNewt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 07:49 AM

So I just realized both of my 1250's have a leak at the axle seal by the wheel. My question is how hard is this to fix? Does the whole transmission need to be disassembled to pull the axles or can it be done by pulling wheels and hubs. There are no 1250 shop manuals so I was wondering if someone who has done it could give me steps/tips etc.
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#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 08:42 AM

There are many brands with 1250 models. Which is yours. We want to help but more info and pictures will be needed. Good Luck, Rick



#3 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 08:44 AM

I am pretty sure he meant a Bolens 1250.
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#4 PennsylvaniaNewt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 08:55 AM

Yeah Bolens 1250
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#5 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 08:56 AM

They are my favorite GT. There are manuals in our Manuals Section. Good Luck, Rick

 

http://gardentractor...68-bolens-1250/

 

http://gardentractor...service-manual/

 

http://gardentractor...vice-bulletins/

 

Our manuals section is a great resource. Take advantage of it and if you can, add to it.


Edited by boyscout862, March 17, 2014 - 08:59 AM.

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#6 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 09:47 AM

 Does the whole transmission need to be disassembled to pull the axles or can it be done by pulling wheels and hubs.

 

You do not have to disassemble the hydrostatic transaxle! 

 

With care, the seals can be removed from the housing without removing the axles.  ....The wheels, hubs, and keys holding the hubs to the axles need to be removed.

 

Carefully drive a thin screwdriver into the face of the seal, without hitting the axle or the housing.

 

Once the seal is pierced, usually the seal can be pried out of the housing by levering the screwdriver against the end of the housing.  ....Sometimes, you can use the screwdriver to rotate the seal in the housing before trying to pry it out.

 

If you score or gouge the axle or housing, you will create a leak that a new seal will not fix.

 

Once the old seal is removed, clean the axle and housing to be sure no debris remains.  ....Dip the new seal in oil (to lube it) and slide it onto the axle with the lip-side (the open side) toward the transaxle, and against the housing.  .....Use a piece of PVC pipe, a metal pipe, or if possible a deep-well socket, to slide over the axle and push against the outside diameter of the seal.  ....Tap the pipe or socket to seat the seal into the recess in the housing.  .....Be sure the seal is not "cocked" on the shaft when trying to seat it.  .....Drive the seal in until it is flush with the end of the housing.

 

There are seal pullers made to remove seals with shafts in place, but it is doubtful you have one available.  ....The above procedure will work with many other lip-type seals, such as engine crankshaft seals (without disassembling the engine).


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#7 Guest_Fluid_*

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 10:21 AM

Nice description, very easy to follow.  Thanks


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#8 PennsylvaniaNewt OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 10:43 AM

Thank you!

#9 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 12:14 PM

Very good discription Bruce  !!



#10 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 02:00 PM

I've used that method with decent success. I have a home-made and a store-bought seal puller, but they often can't get to the seal if the axle is in the way.

Another method is to CAREFULLY drill a small hole into the seal, then thread a long sheet metal screw a couple turns into the hole, then pull out the seal. I sometimes pry with diagonal pliers on the axle tube--unless it's aluminum and would be damaged. Once the seal is broken loose it generally comes out with little effort.

Another trick I use is to apply a thin coat of black gasket maker to the outside of the new seal--the metal ring. Some seals already have a sealant on them, so it may not be necessary.

If the shaft has splines or a key way, it's good to put a sleeve over the shaft to keep from cutting the seal when you install it. An old yogurt carton works good.

And lastly...sometimes there's a groove on the axle from the previous seal. If possible, leave the seal protruding 1/16" or so will often ensure it seals better as the seal lip is riding on an unworn part of the shaft.

FWIW,

Smitty
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#11 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 03:00 PM

If the area where the seal rides on the axle shaft is badly worn, there are VERY thin sleeves that can be put on the shaft to repair that area and allow the new seal to work as it should. The thin sleeves were designed for just that purpose. I apologize for not remembering exactly where to find those right now
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#12 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 05:36 PM

If the area where the seal rides on the axle shaft is badly worn, there are VERY thin sleeves that can be put on the shaft to repair that area and allow the new seal to work as it should. The thin sleeves were designed for just that purpose. I apologize for not remembering exactly where to find those right now

I used to sell Stemco seals for over-the-road trucks.  The had a sleeve you could buy and use for worn axles--had to be driven on with a special tool.  I didn't know if the sleeves were available for Garden Tractors, but I think there's a product called Speedi-Sleeve that can be used in that manner.

 

Smitty


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