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Bush Hog JBI Diesel Repower (Hogzilla)


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#556 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2014 - 03:48 PM

Another big reason I wanted to make my own rims was so I could determine the offset.  These I built will align the inside edge of the rears to the inside edge of the front, which makes for easier plowing.


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#557 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2014 - 07:53 PM

Back home from fetching parts to repair Dad's well water line, and dinner at Huddle House.  Also got me some more white paint, so the rims are DONE!  Let them cure a day or 2, then maybe I'll have time to get the tires mounted later in the week.


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#558 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 05:42 AM

Great job on the wheels Daniel! It's always a privilege to watch your talents at work!!!


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#559 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 06:00 AM

Great job on the wheels Daniel! It's always a privilege to watch your talents at work!!!

You said a mouthful there!


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#560 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 11:56 AM

Got both the tires mounted on the widened rims, ballast fluid inside....no leaks.  Another thing better about these rims is they have the bead lock ridges.  The 6 lug wide rims didn't have the lock bead, and I have had leakage a time or 2 at the bead.  I don't think that will be an issue at all now.

  I LOVE the wide stance Hogzilla has now!  With the tires aligned proper, plowing should be much less strain on the tractor, plus do a clean plow line.

 

DSC00221.JPG DSC00222.JPG

 

 

Now to pick up some more 1/2" threaded rod to mount the weights back on.

 


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#561 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 12:46 PM

Just gets better and better as time goes on. :thumbs:


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#562 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 01:33 PM

The hydro pedal is off, and just a hand control will go back.  Up beside the dash tower, I'll have a track guide for the handle with a sideways notch for reverse like many have.  I'll have the neutral bottom of the guide plate adjustable so neutral is as easy as pulling the handle till it hits.  The tension brake at the hydro holds it in place great, so the lurching over the steering wheel or back whipping is a thing of the past.  Gonna be safe to drive now.

  Too danged miserably hot out, even in front of a fan, so came in to rest till chore time.


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#563 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:13 AM

That is coming together real nice, Daniel! I like the wheels/tires! The hand control sounds similar as the FF has. But it is connected to the brake pedal, so it you just move the pedal a bit, it goes to neutral stopping you dead! Sometimes this is good, other times it will throw you forward if you are at full speed. Need to look into that more, but not much time lately!


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#564 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 04:55 PM

Stole some time today to finish my neutral safety switch.  Those that may remember, I once upon a time started Hogzilla while standing next to it, and DUH....it was in forward & ran into the well house, but first it crawled up my calf & was spinning on it, ballast fluid, and weights.  NO, it didn't feel so good, but mostly scared me as in the "what if's".  So it now will not start in gear!  

  Was difficult to do, as the piece of flat edged metal needed to be ground to a curve that matched the pitch of the hydro control arm.  The worst part is that the control arm can't come off without removing the transmission, and this piece of metal is welded to the control arm.  So I had to hold a scribe to the metal while I moved the control arm to get a curved mark to go by.  Then I had to use a carbide burr in my angle die grinder, then polish with a sanding cookie.  It works perfectly, and it even surprised me that it did.  Close working quarters.  The switch is an original Bush Hog JBI neutral safety switch.

 

DSC00223.JPG

 

I also got a weight I bought a while back drilled to mount up to the wheel.  There is another 50lb weight under this one.  The right rear has just the one 50lb weight, but both tires have 12 gallons of fluid in them, which is another 100lb per tire.  I'll have plenty of traction.

 

DSC00224.JPG

 


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#565 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:39 PM

Roughed out a hydro control lever.  This is waaaay better & safer than the pedal, as I just got through giving it a test drive.  I tried & tried making the pedal assembly work safely & smoothly, but just couldn't come up with the right combo.  Actually, with the new friction hold system, the pedal may have worked fine, but I opted to drop it for lever only.


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#566 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 09:23 PM

 

 

I'll have plenty of traction.

I don't know Daniel, looks a little light in the hind end to me.  :bigrofl: 


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#567 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 04:31 AM

Roughed out a hydro control lever.  This is waaaay better & safer than the pedal, as I just got through giving it a test drive.  I tried & tried making the pedal assembly work safely & smoothly, but just couldn't come up with the right combo.  Actually, with the new friction hold system, the pedal may have worked fine, but I opted to drop it for lever only.

Looking good :thumbs: i would of chosen the hand lever too for the same reasons, we become very use to hand levers on tractors, i recall the Jonny Poppers, hand clutch and hand lever throttle.



#568 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 11:29 AM

 

 

 i recall the Jonny Poppers, hand clutch and hand lever throttle.

Used to hate trying to back up to a wagon tongue with those. As soon as the clutch started to engage your body would be moved toward the steering wheel increasing the pressure on the clutch causing the tractor to back faster. Oh for the good old days :(  


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#569 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 12:53 PM

Looking good Daniel, glad to see the neutral safety switch installed.

#570 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 07:22 PM

Got the hydro control arm system finished tonight.  Works great, and I'm pleased with it to say the least.

 Like driving a different animal....a more tame animal so to speak.  Got some paint on the parts curing, but just rattle can to stop rusting.

  The arm may look kind of wide, but there is a reason.  The lever arm has to shift to the side to get to the reverse slot in the guide plate up top.  So rather than making a hinge at the bottom end, I just cut out this arm from 3/32" sheet metal.  This lets it flex easy to change from forward to reverse.  I doubled it at the top where it passes through the guide plate so it won't bend.  Slotted the top of the lever, then welded in the end of a bolt for the knob to screw onto.

 

DSC00225.JPG DSC00226.JPG


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