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Questions On A B&s Engine

briggs stratton motor

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#16 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2014 - 12:23 PM

Marty, here is a video of someone pushing a QD style pulley apart. They drilled a couple new holes to take theirs apart because they stripped the original ones. You should be able to see how they come apart by watching this video. I hope it helps.

 

 

Here's another one that at the ends explains how to remove the bushing.

 


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#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2014 - 12:49 PM

Marty, The 3 holes that I have circled in yellow should be threaded and you need to use 3 Gr.8 bolts in those holes. They should thread into the outer part of the flange. Get all 3 touching and then only tighten them a 1/4 turn one each bolt. Each full turn of all 3 bolts lightly tap on the out portion of the pulley and keep tightening and tapping until they come apart. Once you have the 2 separated. you will be able to remove the broken bolts out of the back half of the pulley.

 

attachicon.gifCAM00136_zps27f6b7e0.jpg

 

 

BTW, I need that engine for my JB Bush Hog !! If you should want to trade of sell it. :D

 

I was thinking of you when I pointed out it was similar to the JB1 engine.  


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#18 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2014 - 07:21 AM

Marty, if you pulled them together, then you tightened it even further.  The outer hub, closest to you, has 3 blank holes and 3 threaded.  It is the threaded ones in the outer hub you use so that you "push" the inner part away from this hub towards the engine.

  If you used bolts that thread into the inner portion, this won't stop you from pushing the 2 parts away from each other using the outer threaded holes.  Put plenty of pressure on the bolts, then tap around the inner part till it begins to loosen.  

  :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:

 

Thanks Daniel. You made me realize I was trying to pull them together, I was thinking that's how they released, no wonder they didn't come apart.

 

 

OR, just let me take that off yours hands.  Looks like a lot of trouble for you to have to go through!  :smilewink:   Synchro engines are hard to come by.  The 325431 this engine replaced was used in the Bush Hog JB1 tractor and was 14HP.

 

 

Marty, The 3 holes that I have circled in yellow should be threaded and you need to use 3 Gr.8 bolts in those holes. They should thread into the outer part of the flange. Get all 3 touching and then only tighten them a 1/4 turn one each bolt. Each full turn of all 3 bolts lightly tap on the out portion of the pulley and keep tightening and tapping until they come apart. Once you have the 2 separated. you will be able to remove the broken bolts out of the back half of the pulley.

 

attachicon.gifCAM00136_zps27f6b7e0.jpg

 

 

BTW, I need that engine for my JB Bush Hog !! If you should want to trade of sell it. :D

 

 

You boys need to back off there on my engine   :poke: :D

 

 

I have one AC HB212 with a broken rod that needs an upgrade :thumbs:  :rocker2:

Been looking for one for several yrs and this one popped up. Came off a water pump on a Fire Dept brush truck, I'm betting it has like no hours on it :D

 

 

Thank for the advice, maybe I will try it the right way next time around.


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#19 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2014 - 07:42 AM

sometimes it's amazing how easy things come apart when you do it the right way :oh_shucks:  :wallbanging:

 

briggs pulley.jpg

 

 

The front bearing plates are totally different on these motors. If I can remove those studs, I think I will just leave it as is and paint it. The original motor has a bigger plate that covers more, maybe some other gear or something for that motor, but not needed on the new one? I know it doesn't serve a purpose as far as implement drive or anything.

 

new motor

briggs bearing plate new.jpg

 

 

old motor

briggs bearing plate old.jpg

 


Edited by TAHOE, October 09, 2014 - 08:18 AM.

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#20 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2014 - 02:03 PM

If the bottom one is the original, it appears to be a gear reduction motor. What is the model number? There are also 2 different sizes of output brg plates like the red engine has. They were used for centering the housings. you may want to measure the distance between the mount and the pulleys to see if the new engine will need to be moved over to line up. Usually the flywheel side is considered the front of the engine.



#21 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2014 - 07:16 AM

If the bottom one is the original, it appears to be a gear reduction motor. What is the model number? There are also 2 different sizes of output brg plates like the red engine has. They were used for centering the housings. you may want to measure the distance between the mount and the pulleys to see if the new engine will need to be moved over to line up. Usually the flywheel side is considered the front of the engine.

 

Sorry Doug, I somehow completely missed your reply.

 

Here is the original model number, it was a 12 Hp. 

 

So are you saying the cranks could be in different positions? I will never be running anything off the back side of this one, it hooks to driveshaft off the flywheel side. 

 

100_0752.JPG

100_0753.JPG

100_0754.JPG

 

 

And here is the reason for the swap....

 

 

100_0751.JPG






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