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Sears 3 Point Hitch Questions

hitch 3 point sears

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#1 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 07:51 AM

I am at a point where I want a 3 point hitch rather than a sleeve hitch.  I have Masseys, which have a straight back, rather than the Sears sloping back, and I'm not sure I want to try to engineer the Massey arrangement into a three point design, though someone on here has done just that.  

 

I'm interested in how easy they are to work, whether the "reach behind you and pull the handle up" method is as awkward as it looks, and how well does it handle loads?  Perhaps to clarify here, does it take as much effort to use the handle to pick up a plow as it would to bend over and pick the plow up yourself?  Or less?  

 

Also, since I've never seen one in person, in pictures they look very long, like they stick way away from the back of the tractor.  How long are the arms?


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#2 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 11:17 AM

Mind you, I've not used one - but from videos I've seen, it doesn't look like it's much trouble.

 

If you're concerned about it though, you might look into getting the electric 3 point hitch, or build one of your own design.  There are many folks who have DIY'd or converted existing setups to electric or hydraulic lift.

 

I've even seen one that had linear actuators both for lift and replacing the top link, so you can adjust your implement angles on the fly.


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#3 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 11:36 AM

I know others will come along, I will try to give you my experience.

 

I have only ever used the Sears manual lift and frankly, it's not that bad. Even with a shorter top link, they are able to lift the weight of a rear 3 pt  tiller with a motor. They are designed pretty well to be able to lift a lot of weight without a ton of effort from the seat. It takes almost no effort to lift my moldboard, little more for my box blade and you really never reach behind you, the lift arm is more down to you side or like at elbow height.

Maybe the angle of the rear of the Sears helps, I dunno. Maybe a little harder with your straight back, but that would be something to find out when building.

I am not sure how long the arms are at the moment, they do stick out, but I would have to say less than some of the sleeve hitch designs. I've seen some at plwo day that looked to double the length of the tractor they hung out back so far.

I would agree with TX, if you decide to build one, go either electric actuator or hydro cyl for the lift.

You can also make the lower arms whatever length you need.

Do some searching on the ole youtube for homemade 3 pt hitches or the likes.

 

Here are a couple pics of mine with both the late model sleeve hitch I modded to fit and the original.

 

photobucket-4844-1385939605214_zpsf32421

 

This hangs out pretty far, does take some effort to lift, but  not bad.

 

photobucket-7106-1385939704450_zps0c141d

 

Plow

 

downloadedphotos1209_zps5a195853.jpg

 

Nothing out back

 

photobucket-39151-1348097685534_zpsba715

 

 


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#4 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 11:58 AM

I have only ever used the Sears manual lift and frankly, it's not that bad. Even with a shorter top link, they are able to lift the weight of a rear 3 pt  tiller with a motor. They are designed pretty well to be able to lift a lot of weight without a ton of effort from the seat. It takes almost no effort to lift my moldboard, little more for my box blade and you really never reach behind you, the lift arm is more down to you side or like at elbow height.

 

Thanks, that is exactly the sort of feedback I was looking for.  I'd seen pics recently of Sear three points that had appeared to lift tillers off the ground, and I don't thing my sleeve hitch could come close to that kind of weight lifting.



#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 01:45 PM

Years ago, i had rotator cuff damage. It required physical therapy to overcome. I use the 3 point a lot during plow season and the Sears system is easier to lift than I thought it would be,but depending on how much you use it, and if you have shoulder issues, you might not be thinking it's "easy". Awkward isnt a word i would assign to it, just different.

It is a better system in regards to properly setting up the plow or other attachment, much more flexible, but it does require some reachback...and by the end of a full day of "playing", i really get to feeling it. It's worst is at the top dead center so to speak. I dont think adapting a sears 3 point is the answer

The lift lever on the MF10/12 is easier to lift IMHO because its in front of you and you can brace off your feet. What you need to find or build is a hydraulic system that lifts the sleeve hitch or homemade 3 point.

I forgot to add, most of the arms are around 18" long. A few (the ones designed for tiller and other heavy loads) are 15"
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#6 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 02:25 PM

Yea, I guess it can be awkward.

If you look at my first two pics, you can kind of see where the arm is positioned when in "down" postition. The first one is kind of exaggerated, the attachment never lets it go back that far, straight up and down is about as far back as it goes.



#7 superiorpower OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 02:55 PM

I love my Sears but its the only one I have ever used. With that said, I have seriously considered buying an inexpensive ATV winch and mounting it on a bracket above the 3-point apparatus to do the lifting. I don't know if it would work or not, but I have been wanting to try it. My intent would be to mount the winch on a plate with a "hook" on it. Kind of like a flat steel stock "J" shaped so I can easily attach it to multiple applications. It would be easy to attach it to a frame to lift my front blade, or to the front of the mower similar to an ATV. Many applications. If it is designed well you could easily swap it from application to application. Perhaps use some quick connect/disconnect connectors to increase the ease of swapping it. I think a winch would be more adaptable than a linear actuator (though an actuator may be more dependable). Just my thoughts. 


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#8 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 03:23 PM

That's how mine is set up.  It was originally an electric 3-pt, but the previous owner couldn't find a replacement actuator, so he fabbed up what you see here.

 

cr6l9Bf.png

 

Two problems, though... 1: the winch bracket is too close to the seat, and the seat spring can't travel like it should, sometimes one side or the other of the seat gets trapped behind the bracket, and 2: the winch is in the way of the lift links and top link, making it hard to get enough rise sometimes.

 

It works, but I wouldn't say it works great- I'm probably going to switch it back to a linear actuator at some point.


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#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 08:30 PM

I used mine tonight for about an hour and half grading drive using rear box blade. It would've be nice to have electric actuator, but I found myself doing a lot of pushing down to get it to dig, could do that without the lift handle. 


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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 08:49 PM

I used mine tonight for about an hour and half grading drive using rear box blade. It would've be nice to have electric actuator, but I found myself doing a lot of pushing down to get it to dig, could do that without the lift handle.


Yeah, I forget about the down pressure... It's so second nature to do it.
It's a nice feature, being able to transfer more weight to the implement when you need to.

Please don't get me wrong, I LOVE my Sears, I am just trying to explain both sides for someone who's never run one.

I would advise you go to a plow day or visit a Sears owner and play with one first before you mod both the tractor and a 3 point.
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#11 superiorpower OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 10:35 AM

That's how mine is set up.  It was originally an electric 3-pt, but the previous owner couldn't find a replacement actuator, so he fabbed up what you see here.

 

cr6l9Bf.png

 

Two problems, though... 1: the winch bracket is too close to the seat, and the seat spring can't travel like it should, sometimes one side or the other of the seat gets trapped behind the bracket, and 2: the winch is in the way of the lift links and top link, making it hard to get enough rise sometimes.

 

It works, but I wouldn't say it works great- I'm probably going to switch it back to a linear actuator at some point.

I haven't decided what I will do. Does anyone have a photo of a 10/6 with an actuator attached? Or know what stroke length it needs? 



#12 toppop52 ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 01:55 PM

My Wizard had the integral sleeve hitch that used the lift handle for the deck, I took the deck off and sold it, and all was fine until the 6 speed bit the dust, when I converted to hydro from a blown engined GT 5000, one pulley is in the way of the flat bar connector that goes from hitch to handle. I caught a Warn 1700 on sale and put it on Sunday using a pully block to slow it down and double the lift capacity. It worked fine and would easily lift me at 250 lbs plus that heavy Gilson blade I had on there, but was way too fast jerky with the single line. So far down pressure hasn't been an issue, I graded my clam shell driveway that's over 200' and 16' wide with two double turnouts and it will dig plenty deep for that. Having said that it's better to be able to have down pressure, but this will do 95% of what I need and I can easily put weights on anything I use.


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#13 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 05:53 PM

one thing to keep in mind with the Sear manual 3pt is the fact they offered an extension, that bolted onto the arm. This makes it real easy to lift even the heavy roto=spader units.


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#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2014 - 06:55 PM

The extension with the 3" shorter arms would make it really nice.



#15 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2014 - 09:33 AM

I haven't decided what I will do. Does anyone have a photo of a 10/6 with an actuator attached? Or know what stroke length it needs? 

 

Most of the rear actuators only had a 4" stroke.


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