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Case 448 tear down and rebuild / restore thread.


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#16 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2011 - 09:28 AM

The other question I have is about the grip/handle on the forward/reverse control lever. Is it possible to remove the old one without destroying it? I have to remove it so I can at least get the new bushings installed for the levers. The grip on the lift lever is already missing.


I've done similar many times & no problems. Even some with "dipped" rubber handles. I use an open ended wrench that will just slip over the metal, then hit the wrench lightly till she comes off. You could use an adjustable wrench too.

#17 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2011 - 10:30 AM

As Dan said i have done it this way a few times with luck.You can also use a set of vice grips clapped on the handle and twist it off.Just make sure you grip it tight enough to hold it and not dig into it.And don't worry if you break it i have a set of handles here if you need it.

#18 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2011 - 10:43 AM

I will try my luck with the grip tonight. I also want to separate the rear from the frame tonight. I have rebar being bent now for ties and some #6 bar cut to length for the annodes to go inside the tank. I am hoping to get a part or two cooked this weekend. At least one part anyway. I have some straightening to do on the grill on the hood which isn't much. Then I wanna start filling in the wear spots from the engine on the frame. I will probably use the electrolysis tank for the frame and dash tower but I will probably sandblast the rear end because I don't know what the tank would do to any of the seals.

#19 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2011 - 04:08 PM

I just walked over to our main warehouse / rebar shop to check on my rebar for the electrolysis tank and they had it all done. I asked him for my bill and he said not to worry about it. Can't beat free :D

#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2011 - 04:12 PM

I just walked over to our main warehouse / rebar shop to check on my rebar for the electrolysis tank and they had it all done. I asked him for my bill and he said not to worry about it. Can't beat free :D


Now that's a price I like!

#21 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2011 - 05:05 PM

That's the best price ever! I've had a few "bonus" perks like that from my job too. :thumbs: It makes you feel like they appreciate what you do for them. Keep us posted (with pictures of course) of how well the larger electrolysis tank works!

#22 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2011 - 06:52 PM

Alright guys, I am at the point where the steering wheel has to come off. I got the nut off the steering column and now it is time to try and pull the wheel off. I know you guys mentioned bearing separators or plates and then use a bearing puller. Does anyone have pictures of the setup or links to the tools so I know what I am looking for? Pretty please? LOL

#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2011 - 07:22 PM

Use this type under the steering wheel, with the flat side next to it. Harbor Freight carries them. Get the larger size so the threaded holes will reach just beyond the hub of the steering wheel.

bearing_puller_attachment.jpg

Then use a flat bar type puller, or a chickenfoot puller to pull from the top with bolts from top puller, threaded into lower bearing puller.

chickrnfoot.jpg

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  • puller6.jpg

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#24 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2011 - 08:20 PM

I am going to try and see if we can't get the stuff locally and if we can't I will order it from hardborfreight or northern tool. Thank you for the pics and description Daniel.

#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 15, 2011 - 09:43 PM

I am going to try and see if we can't get the stuff locally and if we can't I will order it from hardborfreight or northern tool. Thank you for the pics and description Daniel.


No problem George. You could just make a quick trip to my place & you can borrow my tools. :D

#26 mastifflawyer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2011 - 06:13 AM

The other question I have is about the grip/handle on the forward/reverse control lever. Is it possible to remove the old one without destroying it? I have to remove it so I can at least get the new bushings installed for the levers. The grip on the lift lever is already missing.


George- Apply heat from a heat gun. It will twist off.

#27 mastifflawyer OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2011 - 06:19 AM

Thanks guys.

Do have one question though. What would be wrong with the idea of using the same type of rubber mounts that are supposed to go under the frame and putting them on top of the frame between the frame and the motor? Seems to me having them under the frame is what allows the motor to move enough on the frame rails to allow the rails to get ground away. It wouldn't have to be the same bushings, maybe harder rubber material?


I know that we often like to think we can do it better, but this is one where you need to trust the engineers. Changing the height relationship between the crank and the pump knocks the lovejoy out of whack. Once you get everything back where is should be the motor won't move around. Remember it took 30+ years for it to get the way you see it and I doubt that anyone has ever tightened the mounts during that time.

#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2011 - 08:42 AM

But the pump/lovejoy is all fitted solid to the engine with the bell shaped pump mount, so no way to alter their positions with changes in the motor/frame mounts.

#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2011 - 08:43 AM

George- Apply heat from a heat gun. It will twist off.


Yep, bound to make it easier. I was lucky with most of mine, they came off without heat.

#30 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2011 - 08:51 AM

The only thing that I noticed if I raise the motor say a 1/4" with rubber mounts under the motor between the frame rail the only thing that would change is I would need to cut the hose from the pump to the hydro tank a tad shorter.




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