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So what makes the drive trains on older Cub Cadets so desirable?


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#16 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2010 - 07:44 PM

Gear drive Cub Cadets built by International Harvester 1961 to 1981 are said to be way over engineered. They have continued their proven record for decades and are known to never give out.


How very true that is,in most cases.

#17 tweidman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 30, 2010 - 08:19 PM

it just mows so nice it is kind of hard to give up.


I know what you mean. I loved mowing with my 129, until we moved and I had 6 times as much grass. The small deck just wasn't cutting it (pardon the pun). That and the engine was about to die after 3 bizzillion hours. I loved how easy it was to work on. Sold it and bought another MF. I also bought a new bigger cub to cut with. Not nearly big enough, but it was all I could afford at the time. 4 years later and it still runs perfect and no issues at all.

#18 nra1ifer OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 07:12 PM

Here's one of the things I like about the Cubs..... happiness is a stout rear-end!!

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#19 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 07:19 PM

Here's one of the things I like about the Cubs..... happiness is a stout rear-end!!


They sure dont make them like that anymore

#20 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 10:07 PM

You can change over your hydro to a gear drive just hunt you up a gear drive trans clutch clutch hanger all the brackets and stuff from a cub with a frame similar to your and its pretty much a bolt in job all the existing wholes for the gear drive stuff is there its just either got hydro stuff in it or nothing at all. I know lots of pullers who have changed them over. Its not to awful bad of a job just a matter of tracking down the stuff and the best thing is that depending on which frame you have it doesnt matter what model it was as long as the frames are the same and the brake setup is the same it will fit so that makes finding parts easier.

#21 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2010 - 10:57 PM

Gear drive Cub Cadets built by International Harvester 1961 to 1981 are said to be way over engineered. They have continued their proven record for decades and are known to never give out.

YES Ditto.
We have kept up with those puppies with the 10/12 Massey's but we always had to keep our eye on belt tension and even add a spring here and there if needed.
Keeping up with that Kohler engine was the biggest challenge.

#22 hendershot OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 11:25 AM

i have a 1000 cub. can't keep clutchs in it. have put solit drive plate in it but, the clutch stills comes aparts. need help.:confuse:

#23 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 03:03 PM

Welcome Hendershot

You may get a faster response and more views if you were to post your question as a new thread.

We would love to see some pictures!

#24 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2010 - 03:42 PM

Hendershot:welcometogttalk:

#25 loggerhenry OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2011 - 05:15 PM

when i bought my 582 it came with a single stage snowthrower. i found on Ebay a high/low gear reduction for $250 all rebuilt. i installed it and started pulling things around the yard. i even hooked up to my Polaris XC700 snowmobile. 1st gear low range not a single problem.

#26 Dieseljon OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2011 - 07:17 PM

In the area I live in we have several mower shops scattered around and they all have garden tractor grave yards out back and some even out front. You can find just about any big name used tractor parts you want, as long as it's not for a Cub. I've asked all of the shop owners why they didn't have Cub part's and I always got the same answer "the pullers got em all" In my opinion (witch is usually wrong) this in a pretty good indication that the rear ends might be just a little better than most.
(here is were I contradict myself) While watching the local GT pulls I've noticed more old Suburbans with the high/low tranny kick the crap outta the Cub's and they seem to stand up to the abuse of being hooked to a sled just fine. Oh and the older green tractors do good too.

#27 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2011 - 09:53 PM

I prefer a Peerless 2300, they are fairly stout, JD's have them so plenty around to grab up. Then the high'low transaxle in the Craftsman (Caterpillar) does very well pulling whatever i have hooked the tractor to. I think the biggest thing is preference, you have to have one in order to think something is better than the other. Now, I am not saying the transaxles I like are the best, just saying they work well for my tractoring needs.

#28 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2011 - 10:40 PM

You can change over your hydro to a gear drive just hunt you up a gear drive trans clutch clutch hanger all the brackets and stuff from a cub with a frame similar to your and its pretty much a bolt in job all the existing wholes for the gear drive stuff is there its just either got hydro stuff in it or nothing at all. I know lots of pullers who have changed them over. Its not to awful bad of a job just a matter of tracking down the stuff and the best thing is that depending on which frame you have it doesnt matter what model it was as long as the frames are the same and the brake setup is the same it will fit so that makes finding parts easier.


While all this is very true, it is just not cost effective. For the money you would get involved in parts and the time you would have invested doing this it would be so much simpler to start with a gear drive in the first place. Assuming that a puller is going to be modified in the engine department, a complete tractor with a good non running block should be no problem acquiring for the price of the parts to convert a hydro. As far as the brakes the style shouldnt have any bearing on this as everything from the engine back in the drivetrain would have to be replaced in a conversion leaving only the pedal and the actuating arm on the pedal shaft. Thus changing the brake setup to whatever is in the rear you would put in should not be an issue.

To take this one step farther. If someone had a hydro they use in the winter and store say in an outdoor shed that had no heat and it started hard, there is a trick that can help out. The clutch setup from a gear drive such as a 100 can be put into a hydro such as a 147 in place of the existing driveline as a starting aid in winter. It takes a lot of juice in the winter to crank over that engine and hydro with cold oil from the starter/generator system and having the clutch eliminates said problem.

As far as why their so popular. Like has allready been said the layout is so conventional. The setup is just so accomadating to changing things easily beit thru the fact that it had the Kohlers which were so easily modified or could be changed from a 7hp to a 16 hp with only minimal modification to the framerails on narrow frames to no mods in wide frames. The transmission having come from the Farmall Cub makes it very stout but not completely bullet proof. There are many choices for gearing them though with IH parts. Having come from the Cub there are different gearsets that can be changed to provide different ratios. 2nd gear for example has at least three different ratios depending on what model it came from. Tractors like a 100 had a low speed set, a 106 would have a high speed set, and a 108 would have the intermidate set. The reduction gears leading into the transmission can also be changed in the same way. The weakpoint in the setup was what lies between the engine and the transmission. While the clutch and driveline were more than ample for whatever someone could throw at it using the tractor for its intended purpose it is a weakpoint for pulling. However places like Midwest Super Cub have made this issue almost non existent.

Edited by IHCubGuy, June 21, 2011 - 10:57 PM.


#29 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2011 - 11:01 PM

i have a 1000 cub. can't keep clutchs in it. have put solit drive plate in it but, the clutch stills comes aparts. need help.:confuse:


What do the Iso Mounts on the engine look like? If they are bad the engine will be in there shaking all over the place and it wont take long to tear up a clutch setup along with other things.

#30 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2011 - 12:49 PM

Cubs are IT for pulling.They have very heavy axles and easy accessible rear Pinion gears.Pop the cover off and Weld up the spiders.Bam instant Posi Traction.

Kohler engines are easy to work on BUT if they needs rebuilt,most of the time,they will also need rebored.They will run until the rings and cylinder wall no longer make contact.Even then they will try to run.
My 102 Cub ran fairly good but it needed an overhaul.Took the head off and there must of been 1/2 an inch of oil laying on top of the piston.But it still ran :worshippy2:

My Cub 127 needs Bored,at the bottom of the stroke you can almost stick your pinky finger between the piston and cylinder.Has Mega blow-by and slight power loss but it runs.

They make every part you can think of to make a K series Kohler kick some serious butt.Cams,cranks,pistons,heads,Billet flywheels,4 bolt Billet Rods with Bearing inserts,crank triggers,valves,Carbs and even complete Stroker kits.

Name another Stock short block and rear gear set that will hold up to over 7,000 RPM.

Edited by EricFromPa, June 22, 2011 - 01:04 PM.





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