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A 1991 John Deere 316 Rescue & Restoration Build


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#16 toppop52 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2014 - 01:30 PM

Just a note to to you guys with Onans, since I started using Sea Foam in my gas, I haven't needed to decarbonize either the B48M or the B43M. The 18 h.p. has been run for around 12 years and 800 hours.

 

That's a nice job on the 316, I love to see guys do the right kind of work.


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#17 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2014 - 07:53 AM

Hello Guy's

After Three tedious Day's I finally got the Floor pan, engine side cover's and grill sanded down for this tractor. The Powder coat paint was miserable to remove I ended up using 24 D-A sanding Disc's of 40 Grit to get it off of the parts. There were lot's of deep Pit's from the failed powder coat paint so I had to cover all of the metal part's with a Skim coat of body filler The foot Tread area had rust through Hole's in it so I metal patched that area &. I primed all of the part's once I had them stripped down and Yesterday I painted the floor pan, side engine cover's and Grill with John Deere green. Here is how it looked as we progressed with it. I have the hood, Hood support and Mowing deck to paint yet of which I hope to have done in the next couple of days here.

 

 

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#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2014 - 08:30 AM

That's looking real good! Thanks for the update!



#19 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2014 - 10:52 AM

You have done a really nice job on the 318 and that 316 is going to be just as nice. The fender pan is looking good after I'm sure you put a lot of time straightening it out. Have you thought about adding power steering to the 316, it's not that hard and your at the point of doing now. You still wouldn't have much money in it if you added it now.

 

Very Nice JOB!!

 



#20 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 06:44 PM

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#21 VintageIronCollector ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 03:58 PM

Looks great! :thumbs:



#22 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 03:59 AM

Hello

I worked all day yesterday preparing the 48" mowing deck for paint and Laid Four coat's of John Deere Yellow on it late last night. It was late by the time I got it all done so today sometime I will Place some picture's of it. The Temperature has been cold here it was in the mid 20's yesterday Morning as it is this morning so it delayed my progress on getting the paint on the mowing deck. I mixed the paint Fat and added hardener to it before I sprayed the deck it was only 57 degree's when I did paint it last night, but it came out nice, and once it is Mounted under this 316 the Project will be completed. it has been a Very Long Six week Build I am Glad it is about Over with. . Regards, Hammerdown


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#23 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 09:44 PM

Boy, it turned out very nice. The body work and paint look great !!



#24 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 05:28 AM

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#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 06:36 AM

That came out great!



#26 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:06 PM

Hello
Here is the two Tractor's side by side for their Father-Son Pictures. Regards, Hammerdown

 

 

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#27 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 09:45 AM

Nice John Deeres!



#28 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 04:21 AM

Nice John Deeres!

 

 

Hello Gabriel

I certainly appreciate your Kind word's. This Tractor restoration was a rough one on me. I had a major Back surgery where they fused my spine from my tail bone up to my rib cage back in late September, then I had half of my right Kidney removed due to a Cancerous tumor in Mid February. I was Very weak when I started this project but as time wore on with it during it's Six week time lapse I grew much stronger, which was my Intent in Taking it on. The Biggest problem of the restoration was removing the Failed Powder coat Paint and having to fill all of the body panels with a skim coat of body filler to fill all of the Pit's left behind from the failed Powder coat paint. There is No easy way to remove it, I used 24 # 40 D-A sanding disc's on the floor pan alone to get it Preped for paint work. The entire project took just short of a Gallon of body filler and a Lot of sanding to get it all smooth before adding the High Build primer to it. My 1983 John Deere 318 did Not have this Nasty Powder coat paint on it so it was much easier to restore. Both machines are now fully done and serviced and ready to take on, Our Long Nine Month Mowing season here in East Tennessee which will start this week as the grass is growing and ready to be cut. Regards, Hammerdown


Edited by Hammerdown, March 30, 2014 - 04:22 AM.

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#29 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 04:37 AM

That is very interesting about the powdercoat. I never realized how much thicker of a coating it was versus paint, aside from reading it was tough to blend into. Your pics and explanations in this thread have really opened my eyes. In the future, if I look at something that has been pc'ed and needs work, I'm mentally adding a lot of time and $ to what my estimate is.

Thanks for sharing. I have also learned that a skim coat of body filler and sanding it back down gives a much smoother surface to work with.

#30 Hammerdown OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 05:06 AM

Hello Cat385B

This was the first time I have had to deal with Powder coat Paint in my past 35 Year's of doing body work. I was told that there are some stripper's out there to aid in it's removal but I was also told that the Kind that John Deere used is not effected much by the use of these stripper's. So, The Only proven way to get it off is to Burn it off with a gas Torch, which I could not do to these panels as they would have warped Badly, so I had to resort to sanding it down. it flat refuses to feather edge so you must remove it completly from the Panel to get a smooth finish. Once it cracks or chip's it start's to rust under the powder coat which with salt air caused very deep Pit's and damage to the base metal. The foot Tread area of both side's of this floor Pan had rust hole's straight through the metal panel. One side had a rust hole the size of my Fist, and the other one was about a 2" X 2" area. I ground them out well then brazed in metal patch's to repair the rust holes. When I got done I sanded down the bottom of the floor pan and laid about Three coat's of rubberized under coating to insure that rust would not come back. I tried to use a moderate priced D-A sanding disc early on and it is a waste of time as it Takes the cutting action out of it in no time. I ended up having to buy 3-M Premium sading disc's to get through the powder coat and get the metal to show that it was sanded and clean again. I Feared sand blasting would just warp or weaken the panel's  & I was told it was Not effective on this John Deere Powder coat paint anyways so once I saded them down with 40 grit sand paper I washed them down good with a lacquer thinner to cleanse them, then added a skim coat of body filler over them to fill all of the very deep pit's. it worked well but when sanding down the body filler you must leave a Bit left on as the Pit's will show back up if you get too aggresive in removing it all. it took about Three skim coat's to fill all of the Pit's and leave enough body filler on the panle to make it smooth again. Once I ssanded down the body filelr skim coat's with 80 Grit sand paper I started Placing the high build gray primer on it. I then sanded it down in stages using the 120, 220 then finally finishing up with a 320 grit sand paper before painting the panals. The idea of going is stages with your sanding paper grit prior to paint is to remove all of the D-A scratch's. 95% of how  paint Job Turn's out is in the Preperation stages of it. I do not cut corner's by skipping stages of the sanding down process as it will show up in the finshed paint or within time when the finshed paint shriks down after curing. Here is what the Panle's looked like during the repair process of laying down skim coat's of body filler to make them smooth again.. I hope this helps, Hammerdown

 

 

 

 

 

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