Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

Off To A Good Start, I Think...


  • Please log in to reply
72 replies to this topic

#61 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

TX_Dj
  • Member
  • Member No: 54173
  • 141 Thanks
  • 84 posts
  • Location: Sachse, TX

Posted April 05, 2014 - 04:07 PM

Ok, so an update with some pics!  It's been too long!

 

So anyhow, a few posts up, I mention what friction material I ordered, where to get it, and its part number there.

 

Below is a picture of the raw material, as specified on the label, it's 1" x 3/16" x 1' (Available in other lengths, but 1' is close to what I need here and I was hoping I wouldn't need to cut it).  I did cut it.  Heavy scissors, and some care to not try and cut too much at once, and it cut about like hard rubber.  Remember, this is the non-metallic friction material.  Also - if anyone reading this is going to do this - keep in mind, this stuff STINKS.  It smells like a burnt clutch.  I opened the box in my office and immediately regretted it.  

 

Anyhow... About 2" was cut off, as you can see by the piece that's in the jaws of my caliper.  I might have been able to keep the full length in there, but it was pretty tight with that much material around the mandrel and I was concerned that it may not "pull" right if I left it there (or would start delaminating, which I don't want either).

 

QukEize.jpg

 

So, I took the remaining ~10" and fit it into the band, test fit it with the mandrel in place, adjusted it around to where I had about 1/2" on either side of the last rivet holes.  This seemed about right... so taking a cue from one of the linked articles about doing this, I decided to use the mandrel as the clamping form for setting the liner on the band.  I taped up the mandrel to keep it from sticking to any excess JB Weld, put a thin layer of JB Weld on the band, slid the liner in place, pushed the mandrel in, and clamped it down.

 

Jx1fNu2.jpg

 

Voila.  I'll let that set up for 24 hours or so to fully cure, and then we'll see how I need to bend it a bit to get it to fit back right where it belongs.

 

So yeah, not terribly interesting, per se... but there's pics, and I know how we all love those.  :camera:

 

Also, turned the compost again this morning with the 14 - I can tell that the weather heating up, and using the loader so that I'll turn the pile more regularly is really going to kick this thing off.  It was steaming pretty well when I cut into it.  And to think, people throw away their yard waste... and then go buy compost....

 

Didn't do much *physical* work today, but I'm ready to be lazy the rest of the day, so that signals it's Beer:30.  :beerchug:


  • KennyP and Sawdust have said thanks

#62 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,440 Thanks
  • 39,677 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted April 05, 2014 - 07:06 PM

Thanks for documenting the process. Others may need this in the future!


  • TX_Dj said thank you

#63 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

TX_Dj
  • Member
  • Member No: 54173
  • 141 Thanks
  • 84 posts
  • Location: Sachse, TX

Posted April 06, 2014 - 05:56 PM

Ok!  More pics! :)

 

Done clamping it all together, so here's that...

 

JarhaSz.jpg

dLZ92ug.jpg

mS9tP0h.jpg

 

Now, this thing used to have some rust resistant coating/plating on it which came off when I sandblasted the rust that formed on it despite that... So we're gonna need to paint it up to keep it solid.

 

We'll start by taping over the face of the friction material to keep the paint off that part...

1ktEYkg.jpg

 

Then we need a good primer... Same stuff I used on the rest of the trans parts, Rustoleum clean metal primer in white...

x7UCO5B.jpg

 

And finally painted to match the other trans parts, Rustoleum High Gloss Enamel in black...

iAFHiRz.jpg

 

After that's done drying up really well, I'll pull the no-longer-blue tape off and we can get busy putting it back on the transaxle!


  • MH81 and KennyP have said thanks

#64 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

TX_Dj
  • Member
  • Member No: 54173
  • 141 Thanks
  • 84 posts
  • Location: Sachse, TX

Posted July 12, 2014 - 01:44 PM

Wow.  So I've not done a thing with this tractor since April.

 

Just the other day, my father reminded me that he needs a viable mower to tend his couple acres back home, and my idea had always been that I would use my Troy-Bilt until I could get a Sears, and get that Sears running reliably and mowing well, then I'd give him the Troy-Bilt.

 

As those who've read through the thread know that I came to realize that not only was the transaxle leaking fluid, it really had none when I bought it!

 

I tore things down, cracked the case, replaced all the shaft seals, inspected everything, reassembled with a new gasket, and re-painted it.  Then as you see in the last pics, I rebuilt the brake band with new friction material from McMaster-Carr. 

 

Then it started getting warmer out (this is Texas, after all) and I put the project on the back burner.  It was much nicer to work in the house, where the humidity and heat were much lower, and I had a lot of things that I needed to do in there, and even after all this time, I'm still getting things situated there.

 

Anyhow, since Pop reminded me he needed a mower, and even threatened to go drop $3k on a ZTR that he really doesn't have much need for, I figured I'd race against the clock and see where I can get on this old Sears.

 

Cx07hlk.jpg

jSsHRm3.jpg

 

Holy mackerel that transaxle is *much* more difficult to get back up into the frame than it was to take it out.  After I was done, I remembered Tahoe's advice about the brake rod, and I'm hoping I remembered it right when I was doing it, because I really don't want to drop that thing back out.  The rod isn't connected, but at least it's pushed through everywhere that it needs to be pushed through at.

 

At about 1pm local time, I gave up working anymore today because the shop AC's (yeah, there's two of them!) couldn't keep up with the uninsulated shop absorbing heat thru the walls.  Today's going to be a good 100+ degree day, and it was already over 98 degrees when I gave up and shut things down.

 

Tomorrow, if I can, I'll see about going out to get the tank/seat/fenders fitted, and if that works out, then I should be GTG for giving it its first summer start.  I did some maintenance to it this spring before I started tearing it down, so hopefully it will crank right up and be ready to roll.

 

After that, I'll have to tear into the mower deck and see what all I need to do to make it happy.  The mandrels seemed to spin well enough when I got it, but I'm sure it'll need all new belts and blades, at the very least.

 

Pop may still go get that ZTR, but at the very least if he does, I can put the Troy-Bilt onto craigslist and get some funds back in my account to help out with the stuff I need to do to the loader rig.


  • MH81 and Gabriel have said thanks

#65 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,281 Thanks
  • 28,615 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted July 12, 2014 - 03:09 PM

Good to see headway. That tranny should be good for a while now

#66 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

TX_Dj
  • Member
  • Member No: 54173
  • 141 Thanks
  • 84 posts
  • Location: Sachse, TX

Posted July 13, 2014 - 03:57 PM

Well, it was good and hot today as well... I had set the AC's much cooler overnight, so I was able to press on a while longer before the heat started getting to me a bit.  

 

ZF3CeQl.jpg

ZVGhf1p.jpg

5mjp1p4.jpg

 

took it out for a spin before that last pic was taken.

 

The P-brake is adjusted just about right, I think.  Yanking up on the p-brake will lock the wheels up without problem, and the brake "hook" assembly is slack when it's in the fully unlocked position and everything turns very freely.

 

The brake pedal on the other hand, isn't well adjusted at all... I get no braking effort at all with my foot fully down on the pedal.

 

But... the brake grabs hard enough now that the engine will either stall or the belt will slip when the p-brake is engaged.

 

Not a sign of a single drip, and she's full of 5 qts of 80w90 GL-4.

 

Next up... mower deck...


  • Gabriel said thank you

#67 TAHOE ONLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,483 Thanks
  • 4,943 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:54 AM

Cool that ya got her back together. 

Sounds like you need to adjust that turnbuckle up a little tighter. Mine will throw you into the steering wheel now and it will stall if you have the parking brake on  :thumbs:


Edited by TAHOE, July 14, 2014 - 08:56 AM.

  • Gabriel said thank you

#68 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

TX_Dj
  • Member
  • Member No: 54173
  • 141 Thanks
  • 84 posts
  • Location: Sachse, TX

Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:00 PM

Yeah, I probably need to tighten up the parking brake a hair as well.  I prefer to err on the side of caution with a first brake adjustment.  Man what a bugger it was to get that p-brake back into the hole.  I got it completely wrong the first time, and had "loose" and "really loose".



#69 TAHOE ONLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,483 Thanks
  • 4,943 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:30 PM

I made that mistake of not making sure the P brake was in the hole, haven't done it again. I guess I got pretty lucky, I had just minor adjustments to both brakes and they were pretty close. 

 

The scary part was when I put a new drive belt on too while it was out. WOT, 3rd gear and dump the clutch. Rode a wheelie half way across my 2 lane street. Had to check the draws when I got off.  :dancingbanana:


  • TX_Dj said thank you

#70 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

TX_Dj
  • Member
  • Member No: 54173
  • 141 Thanks
  • 84 posts
  • Location: Sachse, TX

Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:45 PM

Thankfully my belt is "new-ish" - still has some green on it, at least.  It will still try to slip a little bit if I have the clutch out and start throwing on the brake a bit.  But under the (ahem) "real world loads" I've put on it so far, it's held fast.  Nothing like the 14's belt, which squeels like crazy just trying to move the empty loader around.  Try and push the loader into something, and it really squeels.  That belt has seen better days, and the sticky idler bearing isn't helping matters at all.  I plan on swapping both idlers and the belt when I do the engine swap on that thing.



#71 diamond hunter OFFLINE  

diamond hunter
  • New Member
  • Member No: 63060
  • 0 Thanks
  • 1 posts
  • Location: buffalo,mo.

Posted November 06, 2014 - 10:13 PM

nice job tx new to site but I have a 1972 ss15 I would like to restore in my uncles memory but I am afraid that the tranny is to far gone, when you opened the case did you have it laying on its right side only and did anything try to fall out when you took it apart on mine I have no side to side on the shifter just forward  and back and the hi lo shifter will not move I think it set outside toooo many years and also if I remove the drive belts from the motor can I try and start the motor to see if it runs thanks for any info new to tractors but ready for the challenge thanks again diamond hunter



#72 TAHOE ONLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,483 Thanks
  • 4,943 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:06 AM

nice job tx new to site but I have a 1972 ss15 I would like to restore in my uncles memory but I am afraid that the tranny is to far gone, when you opened the case did you have it laying on its right side only and did anything try to fall out when you took it apart on mine I have no side to side on the shifter just forward  and back and the hi lo shifter will not move I think it set outside toooo many years and also if I remove the drive belts from the motor can I try and start the motor to see if it runs thanks for any info new to tractors but ready for the challenge thanks again diamond hunter

 

Daimond hunter, welcome to the forum.

 

Someone on here can probably help, we have a few experts, if you start a new thread with maybe pics, you may get more replies.

Sometimes those shifters get rusted from sitting outside, little WD or PB BLaster can free them up.


  • diamond hunter said thank you

#73 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,440 Thanks
  • 39,677 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 07, 2014 - 09:30 AM

nice job tx new to site but I have a 1972 ss15 I would like to restore in my uncles memory but I am afraid that the tranny is to far gone, when you opened the case did you have it laying on its right side only and did anything try to fall out when you took it apart on mine I have no side to side on the shifter just forward  and back and the hi lo shifter will not move I think it set outside toooo many years and also if I remove the drive belts from the motor can I try and start the motor to see if it runs thanks for any info new to tractors but ready for the challenge thanks again diamond hunter

:wave: Welcome to the site!  As Tahoe said, opening your own thread will get you some help faster. And pics do lots for explaining things. Pic help is in the BLUE link at the bottom of my post here!


  • diamond hunter said thank you




Top