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Off To A Good Start, I Think...


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#46 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2014 - 01:15 PM

Oh, I also have another issue I may not have mentioned before... When pulling the input pulley, I didn't have a big enough bearing separator to get around the back of the pulley to put the force on the bushing hub itself... so I tried (knowing full well what would happen) to pull the solid tapered/keyed hub by pulling on the stamped pulley... and as you might guess, the pulley popped off the hub (and bent) and then I had to use a bearing separator to pull the hub off.
 
I'd been mulling around what to do about this... it has to be remedied before the trans can go back in, since it's impossible to put int on once it's in the frame.  I thought about taking it to grainger to see what they could fit, expecting they'd go with a taper-lock arrangement that would have been rather costly...
 
So I just put in an order for this...
DakZ9KV.jpg
 
It's stamped 6461H... my diagram calls for 6461H2.  The seller knew which specific model it came from (917.25350 Super 12), so I pulled up it's parts diagram on the sears site, and they're calling for a replacement with 6461H2.
 
So rather than go back with a stamped pulley... I figured why the heck not go back with cast... it was only $6 more than a used stamped arrangement, and in much better shape!
 
So the project list entails the following remaining items, if I'm remembering right.
 
1) Finish cleaning the other axle hub
2) Clean the brake mandrel
3) Do something to re-line the brake band, or sink (gulp) $50 into a new sears part with lining attached.
4) Put the new pulley on
5) Paint it?  I dunno... Probably a good idea, wouldn't take a lot of time...
6) Fill it.
7) Mount it
8) easy-out/replace the busted side mount bolt.
9) Finish reassembling the rest of the tractor.
 
Also... for those who like long, boring videos about workshops, projects, and sears tractors... here's a vid I made earlier last week, and posted up...
 
Put a face to the name and all that... get to see me being like a deer in the headlights when I turn the camera back around to face me again...  see the tractor.  Filmed before the SS14/Loader followed me home, so no blue and white loader porn... sorry. :)
 



#47 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2014 - 09:11 PM

uGFlwdG.jpg

 

I dunno how close this is to "authentic" colors, but it's really close to Rustoleum Gloss Black.  :D


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#48 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 08:12 AM

OOOOO looks pretty!

 

Make sure you get the parking brake bracket back up in hole in frame before getting rear back in place. Once the rear is in place, you cannot get it back in unless you disassemble the rod assembly....don't ask me how I know :wallbanging:

 

I have had mine out tiwce, has to come out a 3rd time. My shifter just twirls around in housing, didn't think to figure out why before I put rear back in. Now it comes back out so I can address that. I wil never get this tractor restored at the rate I'm going.


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#49 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 09:14 AM

Yeah, going to take my time putting it back.  I also almost missed that I'd left the trans in 3rd during bench testing before putting the gate back in, and then couldn't shift it out because I hadn't put the shifter into the right spot.  But this morning I'm also realizing that since I've reassembled the shifter for painting, that I've also forgotten I need the shifter off to "lock" the transmission to tighten the brake and pulley.   :wallbanging:   Maybe I can get away with it another way, because I worked at getting the shifter to seal up nicely.

 

But hey, look at it this way - you've become a pro at pulling and installing transmissions in this type of tractor!   :smilewink:

 

Also, a little googling pointed me in the direction of a decent choice of brake lining material, but I have some more research to make sure that I can do the job myself.  Otherwise, the $44 that Sears wants for a lined band might not be a bad idea... but definitely this is a skill that is required to be learned, because the price to buy the material is less than 10% of the entire replacement part.  



#50 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 11:22 AM



 

But hey, look at it this way - you've become a pro at pulling and installing transmissions in this type of tractor!   :smilewink:

 

Also, a little googling pointed me in the direction of a decent choice of brake lining material, but I have some more research to make sure that I can do the job myself.  Otherwise, the $44 that Sears wants for a lined band might not be a bad idea... but definitely this is a skill that is required to be learned, because the price to buy the material is less than 10% of the entire replacement part.  

 

Yea, thanks on the confidence :wallbanging:  :rolling:  :rolling:

 

I was actually hoping to write up a tech article before the deadline on pulling and replacing brake band on these. Not sure if I will get time this week to do it though. My 16/6 has no brakes at all, it's jsut a metal band for the brakes. What little lining is left is hanging out the side.

I actually bought my lining from LarryBL here on the site sometime last year. He had some leftover material from redoing his and sold it to me. Need to ask him where it came from as I need to purchase more, maybe he will chime in.  I think he got it from McMaster Carr. I know it's perfect width and actually semi -flexible. I ground out the rivets then just JB Weld'd it to the band. I think it will hold up.

 

Little heat from heat gun to soften it, JB Weld, and a bunch of clamps.....

 

photobucket-6373-1384564455135_zps8d1af8


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#51 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 12:35 PM

Yeah, the stuff I was looking at was strips of material from McMaster-Carr, Needed to double-check dimensions, but I think the 1" x 3/16" material is the right bet.

 

Hadn't thought about JB-Welding it to the band.

 

I suspect you're following someone's experienced advice, and the JB-Weld will hold up?  I've read some folks saying they intended to "glue it in place" and there are very few adhesives easily/affordably available to me that would hold up to it - but JB-Weld just might... it's like the duct tape of 2-parters!

 

If that's the case... I much rather the idea of a few bucks of material + s/h vs. the $40+ everyone else charges for the regular replacement... or what a shop might charge to re-line it, if I could find a shop locally that would do it.



#52 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 12:38 PM

Found this pic on a vendor's site...

AYP-101230K.jpg

 

Seems that one isn't riveted either.  At least that gives a good feel for how long of a strip of material/where it should end inside the band, which looks about identical to what you're doing there!



#53 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 01:36 PM

I would do the repair myself instead of the $40. Here is a member did the same thing. 

http://gardentractor...and#entry383213


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#54 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 03:03 PM

Thanks, Jim!  Yeah, between that thread and what Tahoe posted above, I feel less wary about using adhesive.  Guess I better measure the band to be sure of the material width, get some ordered, and throw that band in the blast cabinet to clean it up and get it ready for bonding and paint!


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#55 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 03:18 PM

not sure what they used, but I've pulled brake pads/shoes off of cars they are just glued/bonded on and that's stops cars doing 70-80mph or faster with a lot of heat. Doubt you get your tractor up to that speed :rolling:  :rolling:

I think Larrybl told me that is how he did it or I read online some one else glued theirs with JB so I will give it a try. Only issue I can see is JB weld gets hard when dry, hope it doesn't crack off when the band gets pulled.

Someday I will break down and pull the rear and replace mine and find out! :thumbs:


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#56 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 04:28 PM

Oh I hear ya... my question wasn't really that adhesives would be up to the task, but rather... adhesives that we can commonly get at an affordable price.

 

Worst case scenario, I buy a couple feet of that material and do it again with a different adhesive.

 

That other thread, he said he'd used a LocTite 2-part epoxy, I forget what part number... so long as it can grip the friction material and the metal well enough against the braking force and not break apart from the little bit of flex the band takes, it'll probably be good for a long time.  I figure even if the sears part held up for 25 years, and ya had to re-do the lining 5 times in 25 years with the DIY method, you're still in for at least half the cost. :)



#57 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2014 - 01:52 PM

Been a while here without an update - I was rather busy over the weekend moving dirt with the 14/FEL... 

 

But I got the new pulley sandblasted and repainted to match the transaxle, the pulley and brake mandrel are installed, the brake band has been sandblasted, and McMaster-Carr just gave me my update that the friction material should be here by the end of the day Friday!

 

For those interested, what I chose was McMaster-Carr part 6175K811 - 1" wide, 3/16" thick, 1 foot long.  I may need to trim it down slightly to be the right length, but a quick measure with my not-so-flexible measuring tape that was nearby at the time shows that about a foot is long enough.  Since shipping was the same for a few strips, I went ahead and grabbed a second strip as well in case I either screw up or need it later.

 

So, if all goes according to plan, that should be here on time, and that will all be buttoned down and ready to go.

 

I was not successful on running an easy-out on the seized trans side mount bolt, so I'll be dropping some helicoil in there instead.  Not my preferred solution, but better than leaving the hole without a bolt in it!



#58 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 08:55 PM

Well I'm a bonehead, it would seem.

 

So maybe I cracked the case slightly... the outside edge of the forward side mounting bolt hole, when trying to run the easy-out on it.

 

So I went to throw an insert in there this evening, and well, it would seem that there's inserts in there from the factory, but I didn't get dead on center with the bolt when drilling it out, so some of the insert was still in the hole when I started trying to tap it.  A small chunk of the front side of that aluminum came off, exposing the side of the bore.  Then I saw and removed the little bit of remaining factory insert.

 

I can weld aluminum, but it's been ages since I last did, and all I have is a mig (which is set up to be able to do aluminum) but I've never tried welding cast aluminum before (kinda seems a bad idea, actually, but I could be wrong).

 

So here I am pondering... try and actually weld it?  JB weld it and hope for the best?  Forget about it because in either case I technically have an out-of-round hole because the remaining piece of factory insert was directly opposite of the part that broke off?

 

I mean, there's going to be 5 bolts remaining of the 6 that originally held the transmission on if I do nothing about it... all of which are resisting torsion of the transmission.  I just have to wonder if it'd be solid enough in any way from any of the options.

 

Sorry, no pics of the carnage, I was so miffed about it I stormed out of the shop before I broke something else. :)



#59 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2014 - 11:20 PM

My SS12 has been one Bolt short since I got her. I just make sure the others are tight and no slop... Plowing, tug o war, snow duty, all good, no problems.
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#60 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2014 - 11:55 AM

Thanks, MH... That's a sigh of relief....  I feel like such a bonehead for this... so hearing that you've run yours rough a bolt short all that time really is great news.






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