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Off To A Good Start, I Think...


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#16 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 11:07 PM

Ok, grabbed one of the crossbars. The u bolts, I had to make. The original ones were about a half inch to short because they were for the older, smaller 3 point.

If I missed a measurement, please reply with what you need.

BTW, I will usually not use the cross bars as they both have to be released to get the implement on or off

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#17 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 11:21 PM

Awesome, thanks!  I've been a bit busy the last couple days.  

 

First, I decided I'd go ahead and break down the spare wheels/tires and prep them for mounting new tires to, before the currently-installed tires give up the ghost.  I only got a spare set for the rears, which suits me just fine - that will let me have a set of turf tires, and a set of lugs for more aggressive work.

 

I've done a lot of tire work in the past, changing my own tires on my motorcycles and having worked as a mechanic at a country shop for a while some time in the past.

 

This bugger was the HARDEST tire I've ever had to break a bead on.

 

hbWdf5F.png

 

Someone had slimed, fix-a-flatted, and plugged this tire numerous times.  On top of that, with old dry rubber, rusty rim, and all that... the bead was practically welded on.  I would have broken out my larger tire changer rig, which has a great bead breaker lever on it, but my shop was so disheveled that I really couldn't do that.  So, tonight, I decided to tackle the bigger problem...  Clean up the shop!

 

yU5zgUe.jpg

 

Amazing how much floor space you find when doing something like that... there was practically NONE before...

 

I'll pull that weight off tomorrow and see if I remember how to draw things as well as you did that crossbar. :)


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#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 11:30 PM

Awesome, thanks! I've been a bit busy the last couple days.

So, tonight, I decided to tackle the bigger problem... Clean up the shop!

yU5zgUe.jpg

Amazing how much floor space you find when doing something like that... there was practically NONE before...

I'll pull that weight off tomorrow and see if I remember how to draw things as well as you did that crossbar. :)

Nice shop, worth the effort. Oh and and you're welcome. If we get more time, I'll get the boy to draw it up on the computer.
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#19 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2014 - 09:01 AM

 If we get more time, I'll get the boy to draw it up on the computer.

 

Yea, get on that you slacker  :poke:  :rolling:  :D


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#20 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2014 - 08:37 PM

MH81,

I took some pics tonight, and jotted down measurements and started marking up the photos with the measurements. I missed one... where the studs are located fore/aft, but as was pointed out - those measures should be the same as any of the other attachments that fit in that slot.

I think I got everything, if there's any question, let me know.

7obU8g2.jpg
YCmS68Z.jpg
LnSsR6F.jpg

On the side view, with the weight slot inset and the locating slot depth, sorry for the odd measures- i measured those with my digital calipers, and figured I'd put what they said- I imagine rounding to the nearest 1/8" is probably plenty good enough though...

Hope it helps!

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#21 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2014 - 10:48 PM

Oh man, that's perfect. I am thinking of making one just for looks, so I may be making it out of concrete. I might have a piece of Steel I can fab.... Might take more than one.

Thank you! Those are great.
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#22 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2014 - 06:41 AM

TX_Dj, great of you for taking time for the measurements. What is the overall length of the mounting bracket? Thanks!


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#23 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2014 - 10:39 AM

Kenny, OAL of the bracket is shown in the top pic as 13-1/4".

 

Also noticing this morning that I missed the inside channel width and/or the the narrow outside measure of the weight itself.  Since I show the outside at 5-3/8", and we know the stock is 10 Ga, I reckon we're looking (fudging a bit here, since 10 Ga is a bit over 1/8") 5-1/8" inside bracket width, and the weight's got about 1/8" of clearance on either side to fit in, so the weight must be approx 4-7/8" or so.  Don't take that for gospel, I haven't had much coffee yet this morning.


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#24 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2014 - 07:52 PM

Was out in the shop and took another look at it, looks like the studs are 6-1/2" from the front (weight end) of the bracket on center - note, the measure I did for their placement skinny-side was not on center, it was to the edge of the stud.

 

Also, the inside dimension of the channel is 5-1/8" as I suspected, and the weight is closer to 4-15/16", so I guess I was close enough for gubmint work!


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#25 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 06:07 PM

Well, I went out after work today with the intention to get some of the blasted mud/oil mix of the engine and transaxle, and I managed to get some off, but not much.  Granted, I didn't try terribly hard, either- just sprayed some degreaser on it, let it sit, and hosed it off.  Up front, it actually made some difference... I can see that both the frame and the engine were painted to match the rest of the yellow on the tractor.

 

In the process, I decided it couldn't hurt to go ahead and do a tranny fluid change, I have plenty of fluids on hand, and figured I'd take a look at what came out to get an idea of the last time it was serviced.

 

The entire contents of the transaxle's lubrication....

UFyUMuZ.png

 

:ah_shoot:


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#26 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 07:34 PM

Good thing you took a look see on that one. Looks pretty thick too.


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#27 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 07:42 PM

It was about as thick as I'd have expected- and still slick... just kinda looking rusty.  At first I thought there was water in there, but there wasn't (much, if any)... just a splash of oil, and a lot of rust.

 

 

Put some "cleaner fluid" (the dregs of partly-used oils of various types that have accumulated over the years) in there, up to about 4 qts or so, if I had to guess... and lo and behold, the right axle shaft seal started leaking.  

 

Hmm, I wonder if that's why there was a lot of gunk all over the back side of that wheel!

  :yeah_that:

 

4910H... and I gotta figure out how to pull it... doesn't look like it can be done without splitting the case.  Maybe if I was real careful I could drill it and screw in and use the slide hammer, but then I'd need to figure out if I have something long enough to drive it with the axle shaft in place.

 

The other half of my brain says "just split it, you're sure to find something else that needs TLC in there too..."


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#28 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 07:49 PM

holy cow, dunno what I was thinking.  too many fumes from running the tractor in the shop to spread that oil around, I guess.  for some reason the seal looked like it was solid from the outside, but I think it's just worn from the thrust washer between the case and the hub... 

 

I'm gonna leave it as is for now, put the hub and wheels back on and run it around a bit to help slosh the yuck out, drain it, and pull the seal.  Based on something I read elsewhere, I should be able to find it just about anywhere, looks like it may be 1-7/16" x 1" or something like that... I'll have to see if I can get a hook in there and pull it out... but that's a project for another day!


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#29 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 10:01 PM

The OEM oil is 30 wt, but I changed over to 80/90 and have Been very happy.
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#30 TX_Dj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2014 - 10:57 PM

I'm a big fan of gear lube for gears, yessir!  

 

From looking at the parts diagram, seems I should have expected to find two thrust washers per side, instead of the one each I found.  That might explain why it seemed there was too much play on the hubs.

 

At this point, since I'm waiting on parts... I think I might pull that axle and clean most of the gunk off of it... thereby creating more leaks...






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