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#1 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 07:20 PM

I'm not happy with what appears to be the common disk setup because of the furrows it leaves behind.

Instead, I want to use a different style of disk, possibly called a two gang harrow.

 

I've attached a drawing:

Disk styles.png



#2 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 07:29 PM

I had two small garden tractor discs and wanted to combine them.  I had found these discs to be effective in my garden, but again, I did not want the furrows that were left behind.  So I've been doing a bit here and there with some steel left from other projects over the years.  This is how far I got this afternoon.

 

GE 003.JPG GE 004.JPG

 

A quick pull test shows I'm going to need to attach the disc to the tractor in a fairly rigid side-to-side fashion.  I'll also need to put an adjustment to regulate the attitude the disk assumes when it is being towed.  Right now, I'm trying to just put it together to test how it will work, and later I'll probably weld it up when I get it adjusted the way I want.

 


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 07:44 PM

I like what you are trying to do there. I'll be :watch_over_fence:  to see what you get figured out!


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#4 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 07:58 PM

MY FIL taught me haow to use a single gang, you make your first pass then only move over half the width of the disk for the next pass. This way the opposing disk will push the previous furrow back over. I made my own double gang too. I used a Sears single gand and one of the agrifab single gang. I have mine setup like your first drawing. It took a while to get them all lined up so that the back gang rolled over what the first gang left.


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#5 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 08:25 PM

we used a disc just like your set up back in the 80s in the Midwest they were call off set discs. looks great
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#6 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 08:37 PM

Looks great! Do keep us updated on your progress!
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#7 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 08:53 PM

MY FIL taught me haow to use a single gang, you make your first pass then only move over half the width of the disk for the next pass. This way the opposing disk will push the previous furrow back over. I made my own double gang too. I used a Sears single gand and one of the agrifab single gang. I have mine setup like your first drawing. It took a while to get them all lined up so that the back gang rolled over what the first gang left.

I had/have done that with mine, and I suppose it does work, but I thought I'd try this since I had the twin discs.



#8 Gtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 08:56 PM

 I assume the long arm that goes out of view in both photo's is the hitch.  If it is I believe you have the gangs backwards. 

They will cut better if you angle them the other way or just move the tongue out the opposite end.  If you want a smooth surface behind your disk the easiest way is to put a drag behind the disk.  An old twin bed box springs with all the fabric removed works pretty good - but anything you have laying around to use as a drag will help.  

I like the tandem build :thumbs: However the tandems might cause less seat time.....  :(  :wave:


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#9 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 10:29 PM

 I assume the long arm that goes out of view in both photo's is the hitch.  If it is I believe you have the gangs backwards. 

They will cut better if you angle them the other way or just move the tongue out the opposite end.  If you want a smooth surface behind your disk the easiest way is to put a drag behind the disk.  An old twin bed box springs with all the fabric removed works pretty good - but anything you have laying around to use as a drag will help.  

I like the tandem build :thumbs: However the tandems might cause less seat time.....  :(  :wave:

No, the tongue will be the short end.  From the short pull test I did, I won't be able to just pull it with a trailer tongue, I'm going to have to use two parallel bars so it can't crab sideways.  Getting things lined up has been difficult, especially without a full size reference.  I had made some plans for something welded and more adjustable, but didn't want to put the time in to lay it all out without knowing how well the basic concept would work.


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#10 Gtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 11:23 PM

This offset disk picture shows adjustment for side to side and up and down.  With a tongue designed this way you can control side draft and force the disk to track straight.

http://www.monroetuf...fset-series.htm


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#11 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted March 01, 2014 - 09:26 AM

keep us ipdated on your progress and pics please

thanks much

Rob
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#12 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 09:52 AM

Had an hour yesterday, so I just added a tongue to see what would happen.  First, the tongue I used was still a little high for the hitch, even though it looked lined up at first.  The result was that the rear discs tended to lift out of the dirt and the disc would steer for the left of the tractor, so it's not tracking properly.  I put on a short piece of chain, then added another piece of chain as a snub for side-to-side movement.  I then added 50 lbs to the rear.  The disc still tended to veer to the left and not track straight ahead.  I'm thinking I'll have to fab a 3 point style hitch to control side movement and adjust the disk for front to back leveling, which will also help with sideways movement and will keep the disk more or less aligned over rough terrain.

GE 001.JPG GE 002.JPG

GE 009.JPG GE 011.JPG

 

The penetration of the soil is encouraging, I feel like I've got a good angle on the discs.  Since I don't have any way to measure the angle directly, I ended up using a measurement of "rise over run", in this case as the disc mounting bar moves away from the central bar which will track straight behind the tractor, it moves 1 inch back (or forward) for every two inches of lateral run.  That works out to about a 26.5 degree angle, which the original Brinly disc had adjustments of 15, 20, and 25.


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#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 10:16 AM

Something that came to mind on the tracking. The front row is working in harder soil, so it wants to steer the whole disc? Can you easily try it with less angle to see what happens?  Or just more weight toward the rear to get down?


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#14 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 10:31 AM

Something that came to mind on the tracking. The front row is working in harder soil, so it wants to steer the whole disc?

 

One thing that is happening is that with the pulling force located above the resistance, i.e. discs cutting through the hard soil, it is tending to pull up on the back end.   That is why I'm thinking about a full on three point hitch, as the top link will act to control that rolling force.  Adjustment of the top link will also change the way the disc sits, more forward or more back.  So, adjust the top link so that the rear disc cuts deeper or shallower, counteracting the front disc.  


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#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 10:46 AM

I think that would help for this disc. Another thought would be a pivot just in front of the front set. A vertical up from there with an adjuster going at an angle to the rear so you make it push the rear down.

It does tear things up pretty good as you have it.


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