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Woods Mow'n Machine 1850


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#16 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2014 - 10:51 PM

Thanks but it doesn't really matter, I was just using 3600 as an example. Actually I'm not sure what the Command 18 runs at but I'm sure it's pretty close to a briggs I/C 18. I've done some searches and can find tons of info on how to adjust the governor on the I/C18 but haven't found the RPM spec so if anyone knows can you please share that info?



#17 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2014 - 11:13 AM

The Kubota in the 721D is set to 3600 rpm max.

 

Thanks. :smilewink:

I know Diesels make their torque down low, but I was always under the assumption they ran at lower rpms over gas engines.



#18 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2014 - 01:44 PM

Since the drive shaft pulley is busted and will need replaced I am going to jsut replace it with a smaller pulley to compensate for the smaller drive pulley... I'm thinking a 4.25" pulley should get my RPM's up to 3360, which is as close as I can get to the original.

 

http://www.surplusce...Y-1-2BK45-E.axd



#19 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 08:38 AM

I got to work on the mower some last night. I cut the rag joint plate off of the woods driveshaft, then I cut the Kohler's cub driveshaft to the proper length. The original shaft from the I/C Briggs to the gear box was about 5-1/2", the new DS length is 6-1/16" long.
 

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To weld the woods DS tab to the Cub DS first I zeroed my angle finder to my vise. Then I stood the shaft up and adjusted to 90 degrees, next I put the woods tab on top and spun it until it was as close to true as possible. After that I tack weld it and adjust the tab till it is 0 degrees.

 

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Then I burn it in.

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This engine is shorter in both length and crank height and the mounting holes are not even close to the same pattern. So these two things combine to mean I have to build engine mounts/adaptors. I had some 2"x1/4" stock to work with so I cut two pieces to match the engine and two pieces to match the frame. The two separate plates are welded together to get my 1/2" of height correction. The bolts going through the engine mount tabs blind from the back so I counterbored them. The two forward bolts holding the mounts to the frame will inaccessible due to the engine so those will be welded in place. This makes for a simple set of engine mounts that can still utilize the factory engine mount adjustment slots.

 

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#20 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2014 - 09:24 PM

She is a driver! Engine fired immediately just like a good Kohler should. I test drove it around he garage and noticed the STRETCHED drive chains were popping a little. So a trip to TSC for a couple spools of #40 and #50 chain and she's in tip top shape now. The wiring is just a simple straight forward harness that was on the frankencub that the Kohler came from. I'll wire in the drive control micro switches for a safety, some fuses and the headlights.

 

I moved the battery tray from under the seats outside of the frame (opposite the fuel tank). I did this because the factory engine had a heck of a set of ducting to bring cool air into the engine. Since none of that would fit this engine I wanted maximum air flow under the seat. The battery originally set between the hydro's and the front panel (the flat spot between the seat and the foot pan. Now air can flow through the louvers and on to the engine.

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New drive chains.

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All four of the drive chains were stretched 2 links or more.

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They approve and cant wait to go for a ride.

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#21 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 05:37 AM

As the father of two girls older than the ones trying to claim the Woods, might I say that is a fine pair of future ulcers you have there.


Not sure what you did wrong when you were young to deserve daughters, but I know what I did. I even had the father of a gal I dated in HS send me a congrats card when my first daughter was born. All it said was:

Hahahaha
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#22 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2014 - 09:34 PM

Cat, I totally understand your point. Sometimes I sit and wonder if I will grow into the situation where I am watching some young "hard d$#k" driving off with one of my girls in this passenger seat. Okay, enough of that back to the mower.

 

I drove it around quite a bit today and after it warmed up and I shut it off it flooded itself. After pulling the air box off I could see the fuel dripping down the intake even after the engine stopped turning. I suspect the float is stuck open but will research it a bit.



#23 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 01:10 PM

Still driving great. I was about to rig up the cable to activating the PTO belt tensioner arm and realized the nylon bushing that it pivots on was worn pretty badly. I found replacement parts for $5 but decided to go with Oilite brass replacements from McMaster-Carr for $2.50. They should be here by the end of the week.



#24 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2014 - 12:39 PM

I got on Woods equipment website and submitted a request for a service manual and about 10 minutes later they sent it in an email... I'm impressed.

 

 

Attached Files



#25 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2014 - 10:09 PM

woot woot! The carb issue is fixed... I pulled the fuel shutoff solenoid out, along with the main jet and cleaned it all up and put it back together and she runs great wide open then will idle down and purr like a kitten. No loading up and no flooding when I turn it off. The only thing I'm pretty sure was wrong was the solenoid being stuck open. So every time I would shut it off the carb would dump the fuel that was left in the those passenger ways down the engine. I'm not sure how that was causing it to load up when running though. Before I cleaned it I could take the filter housing off and watch the fuel running in the main jet passage way and running down into the intake manifold. Now it just mists in like it supposed to.

 

I went ahead and mounted the new treads and gave it another test drive and the tires grip great.

 

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Edited by twostep, April 20, 2014 - 10:12 PM.


#26 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 09:56 AM

Where did you sneak them tires in from?  We need a new set for our GH, I actually took a angle grinder and cut the treads more square last fall so we could get another season out of them.



#27 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 02:32 PM

It's rare to see a set of mower/gt tires that are actually WORN out. One of the old turfs leaked and the other was just so old and hard that they spun way to easily. So I used some of my garden tilling income to splurge on these. $115 shipped for the pair off of ebay.



#28 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 03:08 PM

Ours aren't totally worn out, but the lugs are getting rounded. Not good as we have a lot of steep hills to mow and we drive down the bank of the pond also.

Is yours like a 21x11x8 or someting like that?



#29 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 09:51 PM

No, the manual says 20x10-8 but it had 18x9.5-8's so that is what I replaced them with. Smaller tires equal more torque (less stress on the hydro's) and slower/more precise speed control. Of course they also equal a rougher ride... Oh well the deck sets level with them so I'll run them.


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#30 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2014 - 08:55 PM

I got to mow with this thing a little today. I replaced the lower sheave and tensioned the belts with the idler pulley and spring, fired it up and went for it. Zipped around a little just to see if any bugs would show their ugly heads. No issues.

 

This thing is going to make quick work of my yard! I'll have to make sure I get the Kubota out to mow the back lot... just to keep her exercised!


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