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Shibaura 14/1400


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#16 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 09:59 PM

not sure Cvans will try to find the right thing tomorrow...



#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 10:28 PM

I think the slot is to allow draining without completely removing the plug.  The slot should be deeper than the threads.


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#18 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 10:46 PM

Ha...yeah you`d think after 40 years in the pipefitting trade I`d have at least one of everything......no metric pipe stuff......

things probably 3/4-7/8 inch long and ain`t figured out if the slot is intentional or damaged goods....almost to perfectly shaped to be random damage...

Stuck a cork plug in it and run it a little bit.

Little difficult to get started the first time.....seemed to start pretty good after its good and warm.

Not sure about the glow plugs and how long to charge them before starting. Seemed almost flooded when it did start.....puffing some pretty good smoke until it cleared out....then no smoke at all.

Didin`t run it much and it is a 4 speed ...2 speed axle. The pattern seems reversed from American stuff. Hour meter is running and say 593 hours.

Pretty pleased so far. It is a Shibaura  SRE2H Roto tiller and gonna need some work and tines but all there except tines :wallbanging:

                                                             1091

Sounds like a Jap tractor.

The slot in the drain is made for daining without having to remove the plug.

Kubotas and my 1200 puff white smoke at start up too, small old diesels with preglow plugs do that before firing when it is cool or cold, you might put in some fresh high grade diesel with some Diesel 911 or non synthetic tranny fluid and give it a good run.

When using the glow plugs hold the keyswitch to the left for no more the 30 seconds at a time.


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#19 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2014 - 09:20 AM

There should be a peephole on the dash( probably chrome) you can see a small heating coil through the hole.

I hold the switch to the left till it glows brightly. Yesterday when it was 8 below I know I held it a lot longer than 30 seconds. But if they are not hot it is not going to fire below 60 degrees.

I usually crank the engine over a few times and if it does not fire I go back to the plugs. These engines need to spin pretty good to fire up.

Yesterday I had to go to the 200 amp boost on the charger to fire up my Ford.  It blows some white smoke when cold starting as well. I don't have a heater on in, so I shined a 65 watt Flood lamp on the filter and Pump for a while before I cranked it.

We set a new record yesterday for the coldest day in March ever recorded?  I had to move the Drift in the driveway or I would have left it sit (getting old and wimpy?) . And it was 12 below when I left for work this morning. 


Edited by JD DANNELS, March 03, 2014 - 09:26 AM.

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#20 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2014 - 11:13 AM

Glad I don`t live where you do JD. Thanks for the info....was wondering what that chrome doohickey was .

It does seem to have to spin pretty good before it finally kick. Wondering how hard that is on starter. Would like for it start easier to save on starter.

I worked on heavy equip many years ago and remember what a pain it was to get air out of fuel lines/injectors. I would like to try to clean the injectors and fuel system as much as possible without having to go thru that process. Little glass bowel ????

Thanks Trowel ....Is the Diesel 911 something to clean it . Wondering about Seafoam or Lucas stuff. Any thoughts??

The slot in the drain plug makes sense. Seems like I saw that in a old lawnmower or something. I`m guessing a brass plug would be ok for replacement. The boss it screws into appears to be brass.

 I imagine the glowplugs are probably original.... I`m thinking on installing new ones . I didn`t see where they are located with the quick look I`ve made so far....any advice there??

Anybody have any idea about crossover with Ford parts....what model?? It shows on casting #s that it is 742cc and from what I`ve found out  there are slight differences in the bore and stroke to make the different HP ratings.

One more Question....it seems to shift with very little grinding on gears but I`m wondering if it needs some adjustment on clutch. Seems very soft on pedal. Can that be done without teardown??  I see what appears to be rubber covers on both sides of tractor about where the clutch should be.

 

Thanks for all the help guys...keep it coming !



#21 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2014 - 11:43 AM

The Diesel 911 is supose to be used to get the fuel ungelled(their website says it does not prevent gelling). Though some are using it all the time to treat fuel.

Whenever the Ford starts sooting more than I think it should or  I use the White Bottle Power Service Suplement(will prevent Gelling) and throughout the winter. to treat my fuel. These things use so little fuel I only buy a couple bottles a year.

I do keep a bottle of 911 on hand, just in case.  This is the coldest winter we have had in Iowa since 1950 and I have put it in my fuel twice this winter. First time since I have ran Diesels that I had any gelling issues.

 

I have never adjusted my clutch , but will look in the maunal tonight. I did adjust the neutral safety (clutch) switch once.


Edited by JD DANNELS, March 03, 2014 - 12:36 PM.


#22 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2014 - 08:09 PM

well I got out and found out the drain plug is a 12mm x1.75 bolt.  And my local New Holland dealer can get some parts for me. Also talked to Sheaffer in Illinois and he has a Shi 14 for manuals, parts and tines for my tiller.  I went to a couple of other tractor places and actual saw a 1210,1320, and 1500 fords for sale. Want $4000,4800 and 4800. No extras and they were pretty worn looking. I`m feeling pretty good on my deal.



#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2014 - 08:13 PM

Oh, 12mm is just a shade under 1/2", and 11mm is almost exactly 7/16".  Can't figure why 3/8" was too large??  Great you found a parts source!



#24 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 08:49 AM

Snuffy: I checked my owners manual last night. While it gives good instructions on most general maintenece I found nothing on clutch adjustment. I still need to get a Service Manual for the Ford.


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#25 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 08:50 AM

pipe thread (npt) vs  bolt I guess


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#26 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 08:58 AM

Snuffy: I checked my owners manual last night. While it gives good instructions on most general maintenece I found nothing on clutch adjustment. I still need to get a Service Manual for the Ford.

Sending you one Via PM.


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#27 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 09:07 AM

JD I talked to a guy yesterday that said he has manuals for my Shi 14.....Sheafer town and country tractor.com... Said he didn`t have operators manual but had one for ford 1200 ...so he probably has a service for you. He said he has parts manual for the Shi for 50 , service for 23 and ford 1200 operator for 34. Little high but hey ...what do you do !! Amazon has some I think....probably not for the Shi !!

 

Wonder what type antifreeze to use for the diesel ?? any idea ?  I`m also thinking about circulating a mixture of vinegar  water thru the system to flush out the calcium . If it`s been in KY all its life its probably had some pretty hard water run thru it. It works real good in cleaning out my coffee maker. Anybody got any thoughts on that ??? Probably couldn`t hurt.

 

I also took the radiator cap and got a replacement at Napa. Guy said it was  generic number and that it came in a 7 and 10 lb version. Anybody know what the cooling system runs at ???


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#28 SNUFFY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 09:13 AM

hey Trowel.....can you send it to me too...bound to something there I can find useful on the SHI

is it a pdf or ??


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#29 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 09:52 AM

I just tried to send it to Dannels and it failed several times, connection issues out here is hit or miss, will try again in a little while.

Huges Net suxs but is the only provider out here in the hills right now.


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#30 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2014 - 10:05 AM

I am not too fussy about anti-freeze. When I changed my water pump I used whatever 50/50 mix I found on the shelf at Walmart.

As cold as it gets up here if your not good to -20 on your mix it is risky.

I have never used vinegar to flush an engine. It may work well. I have always used off the shelf radiator flush.

 

As long as you have a water pump a standard mix anti freeze should be fine. Now I have heard that with Siphon cooled engines(some of the older Jap tractors ans some american made from the 40's & 50's were siphon circulated) that a mix over 20% could cause heating issues?

 

Being in Tenn, I would not think you would often have to worry about block busting cold. But it is wise to have antifreeze in the engine, when you have a winter like we have this year.  I know our Corporate office in La Vergne and DC in Memphis were running on skeleton Crews yeaterday due to weather.






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