It looks like it will need some hood repair. I repaired the hood last year, but for some of the brakes and cracks in the plastic, it didn't work. I will have to try a different method. In two of these pictures, what are these little parts. They were in the carb bowl. They look like jets. It is a Briggs & Stratton 25 HP Intek V-Twin.
Woh! Laying loose in the carb?? Wonder they didn't suck in! Maybe someone was playing with carb and took apart, never got back together right and running again?? I had a V-twin Briggs once on a White that had a two barrell carb, foreign made, and no adjustments, you had to buy the right kit with the right jet numbers to re-build. Kits were $80 or more. Had to use spec info to get right one. I think that o-ring looking thing is just gasket on top of carb where the air cleaner bowl screws down. Think someone forgot some things and set H... with it! Now passed on to you! Modern engines are getting like New Cars/trucks and becoming too complicated for garage guy to fix them. Good Luck!
From what I've read and seen, those pieces are the two main jets. The O-ring goes under the special nut that the fuel shut of solenoid screws in to. The jets must have fallen out, but why? I wonder if the plastic piece they fit in is no good. I suppose someone may have worked on it at one time and put it back together wrong. I think I may try welding the cracks and brakes. I may put some mesh in the plastic where the main bolts go through. The owner has had trouble starting it and I couldn't, so maybe this is why.
New stuff suck's, I like my old stuff when it breaks you need a flat head screw driver, ball pien hammer and a 1/2" wrench. 10 minutes and you are on your way again. Good luck with that carb.
After your repair to the hood , I'd try mounting it back on with a rubber washer both under and over the hood tab. I would think that would isolate some of the vibration.
has any one ever tried the plastic weld method . I do not know much about it either but seen some test results it looks good, just wonder it will hold up under the vibration.
has any one ever tried the plastic weld method . I do not know much about it either but seen some test results it looks good, just wonder it will hold up under the vibration.
I've seen some good results too. I've tried, but have not had much success(one time I was trying to weld a certain kind of plastic with the wrong kind of rod). I would weld this, but I sure don't want to have it not work, especially when this is not my tractor. I would like to repair it though, and make it stronger. The two pieces together would cost over $100 new. Maybe I will give it a test weld. Then I will know if welding is a option. One problem is that I used a certain type of plastic repair glue and that must be removed before I try a different repair. The problem with this is that there are some tight little spots to try to remove it from.
Two pieces of flat stock about 1/16X1. Drillit for the main bolt the drill and tap another hole to bolt the plastic hood to. Sandwich the hood plastic between the two and drill for a new bolt.
Two pieces of flat stock about 1/16X1. Drillit for the main bolt the drill and tap another hole to bolt the plastic hood to. Sandwich the hood plastic between the two and drill for a new bolt.
That may be the best fix. I tried doing a test weld in a spot that wasn't broken. I don't feel real good about the results. Those little pieces are the main jets. The jets fell out because the O-rings are old.
I think the only way plastic welding can work is to find a donor piece of the same or knowing exactly what kind you have. PW has my interest but not enough to give up fiber glassing & the use of epoxies & like mentioned reinforcing with metal. Keep us posted on what you do.
I think the only way plastic welding can work is to find a donor piece of the same or knowing exactly what kind you have. PW has my interest but not enough to give up fiber glassing & the use of epoxies & like mentioned reinforcing with metal. Keep us posted on what you do.
The shield says ABS on it and the rod I used was ABS. I was able to mix the rod with the original plastic, but some of it seems to have burned( I'm not sure if it's the rod or both plastics). The instruction book that came with my welder, mentions only one kind of plastic that would turn slightly brown, and it wasn't ABS. It's hard to tell for sure if it's brittle, because I did such a small spot. When I tried to twist it, I thought it made some small popping sounds. Maybe it wasn't the weld. I think it may have air pockets too. The videos on the manufactures website make it look so easy. I would like to make a really good fix.
Before I get all down about this(not that I should get down about it, it's only plastic), I have had some good success with a product called Plastaid. I used it to make a replacement tab on our JD LT155 lawn tractor and it's been going for 2 years or more and hasn't broke.
Before I get all down about this(not that I should get down about it, it's only plastic), I have had some good success with a product called Plastaid. I used it to make a replacement tab on our JD LT155 lawn tractor and it's been going for 2 years or more and hasn't broke.
The shield says ABS on it and the rod I used was ABS. I was able to mix the rod with the original plastic, but some of it seems to have burned( I'm not sure if it's the rod or both plastics). The instruction book that came with my welder, mentions only one kind of plastic that would turn slightly brown, and it wasn't ABS. It's hard to tell for sure if it's brittle, because I did such a small spot. When I tried to twist it, I thought it made some small popping sounds. Maybe it wasn't the weld. I think it may have air pockets too. The videos on the manufactures website make it look so easy. I would like to make a really good fix.
I looked in my plastic welding book and going by the recycling symbol on the hood pieces, they are either ABS mixed with another plastic, or not ABS at all. This is probably why it did not weld right, I was using the wrong welding rod.
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