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Here's What Came In The Shop Today And What Are These Parts


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#1 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 07:48 PM

It looks like it will need some hood repair. I repaired the hood last year, but for some of the brakes and cracks in the plastic, it didn't work. I will have to try a different method. In two of these pictures, what are these little parts. They were in the carb bowl. They look like jets. It is a Briggs & Stratton 25 HP Intek V-Twin.

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#2 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 09:39 PM

Woh! Laying loose in the carb??  Wonder they didn't suck in! Maybe someone was playing with carb and took apart, never got back together right and running again??  I had a V-twin Briggs once on a White that had a two barrell carb, foreign made, and no adjustments, you had to buy the right kit with the right jet numbers to re-build. Kits were $80 or more. Had to use spec info to get right one. I think that o-ring looking thing is just gasket on top of carb where the air cleaner bowl screws down. Think someone forgot some things and set H... with it!  Now passed on to you!  Modern engines are getting like New Cars/trucks and becoming too complicated for garage guy to fix them. Good Luck!


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#3 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 10:09 PM

Good luck on the repairs. You might try melting some screen or mesh into the plastic or at least glue it to the surface when you repair it.
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#4 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 10:42 PM

From what I've read and seen, those pieces are the two main jets. The O-ring goes under the special nut that the fuel shut of solenoid screws in to. The jets must have fallen out, but why? I wonder if the plastic piece they fit in is no good. I suppose someone may have worked on it at one time and put it back together wrong. I think I may try welding the cracks and brakes. I may put some mesh in the plastic where the main bolts go through. The owner has had trouble starting it and I couldn't, so maybe this is why.



#5 BTS ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 10:51 PM

That's why I don't buy new..... :(

I bet someone took it apart and didn't know how to put it back together, then they left it for you to figure it out :reading_the_manual:

Good luck with it, hope you get it figured out :thumbs:


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#6 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 05:22 AM

This labor rate sign has been around since the 50s.
image.jpg

You may want to post one. Good Luck, Rick
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#7 petrj6 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 05:43 AM

      New stuff suck's, I like my old stuff when it breaks you need a flat head screw driver, ball pien hammer and a 1/2" wrench.  10 minutes and you are on your way again.  Good luck with that carb.


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#8 JoeMopar OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 06:14 AM

After your repair to the hood , I'd try mounting it back on with a rubber washer both under and over the hood tab. I would think that would isolate some of the vibration.


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#9 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 08:27 AM

      when it breaks you need a flat head screw driver, ball pien hammer and a 1/2" wrench.

 

.....and duct tape.  Don't forget the duct tape.  :smilewink:


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#10 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 08:31 AM

The metal hooded MTDs do that too, just the plastic ones crack and break more, become brittle with age.

Ordering the replacement front grill is a lot of $$$$ so i find fender washers help and melting on wire screen on the back.


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#11 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 10:38 AM

love the labor rate sign ...how true it is. 


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#12 Guest_rdehli_*

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 10:47 AM

has any one ever tried the plastic weld method . I do not know much about it either but seen some test results it looks good, just wonder it will hold up under the vibration.

Edited by rdehli, February 25, 2014 - 10:47 AM.

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#13 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 03:04 PM

has any one ever tried the plastic weld method . I do not know much about it either but seen some test results it looks good, just wonder it will hold up under the vibration.

I've seen some good results too. I've tried, but have not had much success(one time I was trying to weld a certain kind of plastic with the wrong kind of rod). I would weld this, but I sure don't want to have it not work, especially when this is not my tractor. I would like to repair it though, and make it stronger. The two pieces together would cost over $100 new.  Maybe I will give it a test weld. Then I will know if welding is a option. One problem is that I used a certain type of plastic repair glue and that must be removed before I try a different repair. The problem with this is that there are some tight little spots to try to remove it from.


Edited by Gabriel, February 25, 2014 - 03:06 PM.


#14 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 08:36 PM

Two pieces of flat stock about 1/16X1. Drillit for the main bolt the drill and tap another hole to bolt the plastic hood to. Sandwich the hood plastic between  the two and drill for a new bolt.


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#15 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 08:54 PM

Two pieces of flat stock about 1/16X1. Drillit for the main bolt the drill and tap another hole to bolt the plastic hood to. Sandwich the hood plastic between  the two and drill for a new bolt.

That may be the best fix. I tried doing a test weld in a spot that wasn't broken. I don't feel real good about the results. Those little pieces are the main jets. The jets fell out because the O-rings are old.




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