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K321 Stator


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#1 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 07:07 PM

I have a jd314 and my question is. Has anyone tried or know if the engine stator can be changed with out removing the engine ?

Any help appreciated.

 

larryd



#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 08:06 PM

Hi Larry. The stator is behind the flywheel so you will need to pull the motor to get at it. It's not that big of a job to pull the engine. It's easier if you have some sort of lift or block and tackle to help hoist it. 


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#3 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 08:36 PM

Yep, as said, an engine pull is required.


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#4 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 08:44 PM

Pull it, not too bad, really.



#5 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 08:49 PM

I was afraid of that. I started to pull it a couple weeks ago and so far I just raise the hood and look. II guess I just need to dive in and do it.

I do have rig that bolts to my bench to lift it out with and a roll around table to set it on.

This will be a good time to replace my wiring harness also, and install my dual pedal brakes  and if I decide to spend the money it would be a good time to install h2 hyd"s so I can power angle my snow blade. All I need is levers, h2 control valve, hyd lines and couplers. My blade already has the angle cyl.

 

Thanks

 

larryd



#6 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 08:52 PM

Well Larry, it was said it wasn't that bad to do, but it IS harder than just raising the hood!  :smilewink:


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#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 06:00 AM

Larry, it sounds like you are talking yourself into a major upgrade/repair job. Have a good look at your motor mounts. The front ones are expensive but the back ones can be had for a reasonable cost and tend to be the first ones to go. It's a pretty tight fit to get the lines on those 2 channel valves. When I rebuilt my 317 last year I had some grief getting the lines back on. I was tempted to get a couple of rubber lines made so it would be a bit easier to run them but in the end I got them all back on and don't have any leaks.



#8 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 06:03 AM

Larry, I forgot ot ask why you need to get at the stator. It could be that you have a bad connection somewhere in the wiring rather than a blown stator.  Those connectors tend to develope bad connections after 30 years of dirt, heat, vibration and oil.



#9 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 07:25 AM

Larry, I forgot ot ask why you need to get at the stator. It could be that you have a bad connection somewhere in the wiring rather than a blown stator.  Those connectors tend to develope bad connections after 30 years of dirt, heat, vibration and oil.

Unplug the regulator and test the two wire on the plug that go to the engine with an OHM tester..  (.1 to .2 OHMs per service manual section #8)  If there is no continuity then the stator is toast as you say..  BTW  My 314 had a busted motor mount when I got it apart..



#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2014 - 11:05 AM

Unplug the regulator and test the two wire on the plug that go to the engine with an OHM tester..  (.1 to .2 OHMs per service manual section #8)  If there is no continuity then the stator is toast as you say..  BTW  My 314 had a busted motor mount when I got it apart..

When I got mine the PO had welded a broken mount directly to the frame.  Of course this melted the rubber mount and made it useless. It was a bit of a job to grind the mount off the frame and re drill the holes so I could replace it properly. The mounts are a problem area on these.


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#11 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2014 - 08:55 PM

JDBrian, I agree totally about the mounts. I really yhink I need tout new mounts on mine.

 

larryd






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