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MF8 Restoration


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#1 jj69chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 03:32 PM

So I started to restore my MF8, as you can see in the pic I started a few years ago, but then was deployed, then came the wife and kids. I have all the sheet metal off and got the rear end out of it last night. next step will be to tear it down and clean it up. I've never tore a rear apart before so I will be learning as I go. Tips are always welcome. One question to ask... what’s the best way to get the steering wheel off? I don't have a puller, I know I need to go get one, but by the looks of the shaft I'm not convinced that will work either, it look pretty rusty.
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Edited by jj69chev, January 08, 2011 - 05:31 PM.


#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 05:23 PM

From what I understand, on the rusty ones, the best action is Oil, Time & Prayer. & a couple of guys have made pullers specific to this job. Hopefully one of them will reply soon. Good luck and thank you for your service.

#3 jj69chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 05:33 PM

I put some penetrating oil on it last night, I’ll snap a pic when I get home tonight. Input on the type of puller i should get would be great, and thanks for the thanks..

#4 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 05:44 PM

If you can buy, or borrow a tool called a "Large Bearing Separator" (can be bought cheap at harbor freight) this can be placed upside down on under the wheel. This will give you a nice flat platform with 360 degree coverage. Now a three jaw puller can be used pulling the bearing separator and not damaging the wheel. It is best to place the nut on the end of the thread as this will keep the shaft from splitting or mushrooming. Ideally, a special tool turned on a lathe that would fit into the steering wheel, fit over the first 1/4" of the outside and have a 60 degree "V" for the puller to seat into. If I had another hard one, I would build this to keep the shaft from getting damaged. (BTW, there is enough room to cut off the damage and put a nut on still.... trust me)

If you think it will not come off without damage, let me know, I may have some time to whip out a tool like that on my lathe.


As for the teardown.... Photo EVERYTHING! organize your photos and keep taking them. It's also great to share the progress later, or to help someone with a photo. Then use zip log bags and boxes to sort and store it all. Label the bags for what the parts go to, and use lot's of bags. A bag that say's "bolts" is not going to make it easy on you. And share the photos here on line so you can see them if you computer crashes.... plus, we like photos!

#5 jj69chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 06:13 PM

Thanks for the info, I will look into the seperator, and when i get off work. Also thanks for the tips, unfortantely years ago when I started tearing this down I did not bag and tag everything, so there may be some challanges ahead, but from this point on i will be :)

#6 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 07:31 PM

Nice little MF8 with factory wheel weights, hydros were the better models especially when driving.
Just a thought here but do you really have to take the steering wheel off? If not just work around it.

#7 jj69chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:38 PM

I wouldn't say NEED to, buy planned on stripping it down to the frame and repainting everything. Here's pics of the steering shaft
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#8 jj69chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:42 PM

This is the project in which i still need a power plant the original motor is long gone, and the motor my dad put on it a while back is junk too. not sure what is going to go on it yet but haven had any luck finding a hm100 for it, so still up in the air. may be a little china diesel just for fun

#9 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:49 PM

That looks looks a solid shaft, my mf10 was hollow, a tube, you should be able to get that off without messing it up, mine I mushroomed the shaft too soft, not enough material in the shaft there.
Did you try to muscle it off?
Sit on the seat, put your knees under the wheel both sides push up, grab the top and bottom with your hands, wiggle up and down hard. Some people have good luck that way.

#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 08:57 PM

That looks looks a solid shaft, my mf10 was hollow, a tube, you should be able to get that off without messing it up, mine I mushroomed the shaft too soft, not enough material in the shaft there.
Did you try to muscle it off?
Sit on the seat, put your knees under the wheel both sides push up, grab the top and bottom with your hands, wiggle up and down hard. Some people have good luck that way.


Doug, I almost lost teeth that way... be careful.

#11 jj69chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 09:01 PM

I did try that i don't have luck that way, i get a puller in the next day or so and get it off that way. As for the seat i thought i remember seeing someone on here talking about a template for a seat pan, did that ever come about? I wouldn't need it now but towards the end of this project i will, as this tractor has no seat anymore.

P.S. Sorry that I'm all over the place with this, i just think of something the have to ask/ post about it

#12 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 08, 2011 - 09:06 PM

I have a few seat frames for mf10s, 12s and I have a mf8 gear drive tractor, I'll check tomorrow if the frames fit the mf8 and let you know.

#13 MF10 DIESEL OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2011 - 02:20 AM

I did the bearing splitter method on the wheel, on the hollow shaft models I use a grade 5 bolt that will just fit in the tube. You could use a center punch to make the puller center up on it. PB Blaster helps. Good luck pulling them off by hand, maybe if they weren't ever stored outside.

#14 NYMalloys OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2011 - 07:07 AM

This is the project in which i still need a power plant the original motor is long gone, and the motor my dad put on it a while back is junk too. not sure what is going to go on it yet but haven had any luck finding a hm100 for it, so still up in the air. may be a little china diesel just for fun


If you decide to go stock, you may find Tecumseh HM80 engines on some smaller generators or chippers. HSK80 motors were used on many snow throwers built in the past 15 years, including Ariens and Craftsman. There are some listed on my local Craigslist. I think the only differences between these Sno-King's and the stock HM80 were the recoil start, the carburetors (primer bulb type), and that they lacked air filters. Let me know if you need any measurements, I can take them off of my MF 8. Good Luck.

#15 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2011 - 10:26 PM

I have a few seat frames for mf10s, 12s and I have a mf8 gear drive tractor, I'll check tomorrow if the frames fit the mf8 and let you know.


Took me longer than a day but the seat pan frame from a MF10,12 has the same mounting holes as the rear fender pan on a MF8




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