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Case 444 Front Weights

front weights

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#1 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2014 - 06:47 PM

So, I've about given up on finding rear wheel weights for these 16" wheels.
Needed them to offset the weight of the 48" snow blower and provide traction.
Looks like I'll make some concrete weights this summer.
I didn't really need this machine for blowing snow.
But now that March is almost upon us.
I'm starting to think about roto tilling.
The manual recommends two sizes of wheel weights? and the weight box for the front.
I'm thinking that maybe suitcase weights will work.
I don't know why case didn't put holes in the front wheels to mount weights?
Anyway, I got three of these brackets when I bought the tractor.
This is the only one that has extra holes in it. (Two to the side of the big center one)
So, I'm thinking mount a bracket bolted through those holes and add suitcase weights to it.
Or, maybe just add a weight box to the bracket? But, what bracket. and, what weights?
Maybe I don't even need extra weight up front?
Suitcase weights are new to me. And I'm a little concerned about clearances.
What say you all?

Thanks,
Joe
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#2 GlenPettit OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2014 - 08:55 PM

Weight on the front will really help steering (just like in snow).  

I very much like weight in the tires, Rimguard, or steel weights,  but weight hanging on the front works fine,

and will probably be lowest cost, like you're considering doing with those hangers.

But also, very important, are the tires;  they need to dig in and hold the steering direction (the extra weight will keep the tires down on the ground when tilling and bouncing), it's that side-sway that is a problem, the tires need to dig into the ground to stop that.

Tri-rib tires are the best, but 16" Ag-Lug tires will work fine also, if you do use Turf tires, you must have chains on them.


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#3 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2014 - 11:52 PM

With tiller you'll  use 150 to 200 lbs on front for better control.


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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 06:27 AM

With front hanging weight you are right to worry about clearance. I used to have a 200lb concrete front weight mounted to a quick hitch on the front end of a JD475. I was using a 3pt dirt scoop and the front end would get light particularly when backing down a hill wwith a load of dirt. The weight needs to be high enough to not scrape when you are going up the steepest hill on your property. The other issue I ran into, so to speak, was that I couldn't see the front of the weight and it was easy to hit something with I when maneuvering in tight quarters. If you can use steel instead of concrete out front it will be much more compact.  One thing you can do for rear weights is to get weight lifting plates and build a bracket with 1" round sticking out to slide them on. If you can find large steel weight plates at a reasonable cost this works well. I have 180lbs on each wheel of my 2320 compact tractor and can put up to 100lbs on each wheel of the 314/317 GTs.


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#5 BowlBuilder OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 05:56 PM

You need to look for rear wheel weights from a John Deere combines rear wheels.  They can be found cheap sometimes and are very heavy.  I purchased a set of four (two for the outside, two for the inside) for $125, the outside set weigh 162 lbs. each and fits the 16" wheels like a glove.  The inside set (split set in pictures) weigh 52 lbs. per section for a total of 208 lbs., but wouldn't fit the inside.   I installed the 324 lb. set on my tractor and loaned the inside set to a friend, they fit fine on the outside.  So basically I purchased two complete sets of very heavy wheel weights for a measly $125.  Scour your local combine junkyards and the usual places like Craigslist and Ebay.  You'll run into a set sooner or later.  

 

3_Eb3_Jf3_He5_L35_Gb5_J9d3s7e8a9a9d66a51ed4.jpg


Edited by BowlBuilder, February 24, 2014 - 05:57 PM.

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#6 BowlBuilder OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2014 - 06:40 PM

A lot of people simply weld a heavy tube on the front of one of the mule brackets and use weight lifting plates on the front.  Probably the cheapest route.


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#7 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2014 - 12:27 AM

Here is some pics from one I built for my 442. Works great. I'm using 43 lbs. suitcase weights.
uploadfromtaptalk1393392276371.jpg
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I used a mule bracket from a deck. You do lose the ability of using it as a mule drive. I guess the tensioner rod could be extended to go all the way through to keep it as a mule drive. Hope this helps.

Eric

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#8 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2014 - 12:32 PM

Thanks Eric!
That's just what I was looking for.
Can you still open the hood without hitting the weight?
Do you run a roto tiller?
Seems Case recommends 140 lbs?
Can You fit two more weights on that support?

Thanks!
Joe

#9 boss351c OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2014 - 01:59 PM

I built the same setup as above and run 4 suitcase weights on it.  Use it when tilling or when pulling a trailer.  Works great and I made sure when I built it that the hood would still open all the way.  There are no clearance issues at all.

 

DSC03119.JPG


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#10 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2014 - 05:40 PM

So, I got some rear chains for this tractor.
Put them on today. Still a bit loose. Looks like I'll need to cut them down some.
Then I added a brinly lawn aerator frame to the sleeve hitch and put some patio block on it.
That made all the difference! I can climb up snow banks with it now!
I've located some new wheel weights for it. Should have them Monday.
Steering is real loosey goosey! The bolt on the bottom backs right out in five minutes.
And I may be missing some of the shims that belong in there. I'll go though the whole system when the weather improves.
It has a nasty oil leak. I think it's the fittings on the motion control valve. I'll drain the oil and try to fix all the leaks in the spring!

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Joe
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#11 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2014 - 07:06 PM

So, I got some rear chains for this tractor.
Put them on today. Still a bit loose. Looks like I'll need to cut them down some.
Then I added a brinly lawn aerator frame to the sleeve hitch and put some patio block on it.
That made all the difference! I can climb up snow banks with it now!
I've located some new wheel weights for it. Should have them Monday.
Steering is real loosey goosey! The bolt on the bottom backs right out in five minutes.
And I may be missing some of the shims that belong in there. I'll go though the whole system when the weather improves.
It has a nasty oil leak. I think it's the fittings on the motion control valve. I'll drain the oil and try to fix all the leaks in the spring!

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.attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Joe

Should have total of 4 shims then you have regular washer then a lock washer makes no sense to have lock washer they need solid base to catch on. I'd put some medium strength lock-tight on it.


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#12 Jake ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2014 - 02:10 PM

This Is what I did for the front.

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