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Picked Up A E12S Today


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#31 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 11:00 AM

The on board charger is too powerful for 12 volt batteries , especially sealed batts . Charging them individually is best . Good luck - this has been stored in above average conditions .


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#32 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 11:37 AM

Factory charger is a manual charger with a timer, would be easy to overcharge or cook 12volt batteries.

 

Good Stuff on getting it working, that's the biggest risk in buying without batteries.

Do you have all speeds working, can test by raising the rear wheels on jack strands.

 

The stuck motor is not a big deal, can be fixed or replaced, they are available.


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#33 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 02:03 PM

With me using the two 12v batteries in the back box where do I connect the lift and light wires? I am thinking on the negative on the back battery (basically replaces B5 and B6 battery location) that right? Figuring only 12 volts at that connection.

Edited by sacsr, March 02, 2014 - 02:04 PM.


#34 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 02:32 PM

The lights 12 volt only.

For the lift you can use 12volt but the lift won't be as fast or strong, I hear guys use 24volts and have no problems.

The lift motor only runs for short periods of time when needed.

I have no personal experience with using 3 - 12volt batteries but from what I hear that's whats done.

Hope the picture helps.

back_box_voltages.jpg

 


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#35 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 02:43 PM

I am going to put the lights at 12 and the lift at 24. I was thinking I had heard that before. Thanks


One more question, in the picture above the light and lift wires are attached to the positive. In the diagrams in the manuals, they are attached to the negative? So light wire on the furthest back battery's positive post and then lift wire would we on the furthest front battery positive post in the box, right?

Edited by sacsr, March 02, 2014 - 02:55 PM.


#36 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2014 - 03:32 PM

To keep things simple , using 12 volt batts  - connect both light and lift power to  + 12 volts in relation to the shunt resister ( most negative part of power pack ) . Seems to work for me . 

 

   The lights and lift could have been designed for 36 volts  . The problem was that surge currents and regen power would blow fuses 

   or worse .


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#37 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2014 - 08:41 PM

Got it off the trailer an into the shed last night. Man that creeper gear really worked well when I was trying to back into a tight space in the shed. Made something hard pretty easy.

 

Anyway for some reason the reverse switch does not seem to want to work every time.......the lever goes into the position but it does not activate it.....then after several attempts it works.....any tricks here that I need to know??

 

I also notice if I over steer it...I am hearing a pop in the steering gears....like it has gone to far and it is jumping the last stop.......raining tonight and then got a call that said my delivery I had scheduled to a customer may not make it....of course it is too late to contact my customer, spent 30-40 minutes trying to get it resolved......so I will be calling at 7 am hoping they will understand.....

 

Anyway...no tractor time tonight....will try again tomorrow evening.



#38 Sparky OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2014 - 09:31 PM

If the throttle is stock , there should be a spring in the crossover to reverse . That spring throws a switch that routes 36 v to the right side relay on panel ( small relay ) looking to front with panel down . Corroded or broken wires could be a problem . Alighment of relay on lever movement may be needed . Sometimes relays become voltage sensitive or just plain weak . A little something to go on .


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#39 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2014 - 06:39 AM

Few things to work on. It sometimes does not want to go into reverse and the steering when turning far right gets out of sync with the gears and it "jumps" a gear trying to make the hard turn.

 

The shifter works well in all forward gears, but seems to be hitting something and stopping going into reverse- the wire moves- I hear the click....but the shifter will not go any farther down......after several attempts ..it finally will go into reverse. What would be blocking it??


The steering gear is jumping the last 2 or 3 gears on a hard right turn. I opened the panel and you can see where the gears on the shaft are not matching up with these outer gears and the gear on the shaft jumps in place when you hit this point. I don't think a shim is going to fix what I am seeing. Any suggestions?
 



#40 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2014 - 07:52 AM

The shifter control may be just stiff from lack of use.  ???

004.JPG E15 Alltrax 024.JPG

 

The steering gear may be worn a bit and out of adjustment, parts are available to fix that.

 

On one of my tractors some of the teeth on the shaft gear were broken.

EHT200 041.JPG

Was able to get a good used shaft to repair it.


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#41 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2014 - 01:29 PM

Figured out why the shifter was getting held up in reverse- pulled it out and the tiny piece on the outside small switche that compresses was getting hung up on the rotation and not compressing.....little electrical grease and it works again!

 

Now on to the steering gear........


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#42 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2014 - 07:52 PM

Well - I must have killed it- started right up when I moved it out of the shed this morning - I had charged the batteries last night - when the reverse went crazy and went forward. I had remembered in reading on the other site that low batteries can cause this. Well after I charged them last night it ran fine when putting it up last night. When I push forward the shifter I hear some knocking- I laid on the floor and moved the gear forward- the motor acts like it is trying to go but just doesn't have enough. I am going to have to find a electrician that can teach me how to read and test with a multimeter. Bummer..............l

#43 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2014 - 08:39 PM

Sorry to hear but stuff happens.

How to fix it myself I don't know, but the guys on the GE sites do, some of them know these things inside out.

Or maybe Sparky. ???

 

edit

The best manual to look at to fix anything wrong with any GE tractor is the

 

ELEC-TRAK HOME OWNERS SERVICE MANUAL

http://www.myelec-tr...OPS-74-4035.pdf


Edited by DH1, March 09, 2014 - 09:00 PM.

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#44 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2014 - 09:10 PM

Doug I have the manual....and I scan over it regularly- will see what I can glean out of it tonight. I will figure it out....just hope it is sooner rather than later! :D  I will be glad when my learning curve on these GT is to the point I can figure it out or have already done that and can fix it!! Heck I figure this out, I may start back on the E12!



#45 sacsr ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2014 - 09:12 PM

Oh......and I found out why the Bush Hogs and Elec-Trak look so good together. Looking at the key for the E12 I noticed the key and switch manufacturer is out of SELMA, AL.  What a coincidence!


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