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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#121 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2014 - 09:43 AM

Looking good, Jim! Thanks for the update and pics!


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#122 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2014 - 04:56 PM

I'm getting really tired of dealing with these hubs especially since I don't know what I have. I'm thinking someone made these for heavy duty use like maybe a fel & done a poor job of milling out the insides. 

 

There is close to a 1/4" difference in the depth of the outside of one hub compared to the other.

hub1b.jpg hub2b.jpg

 

The same difference on the inside milling depth of the area where the bearing race stop is.

hub1a.jpg hub2a.jpg

 

The inside design of these look like their made for another type of axle.

hub1c.jpg hub2c.jpg

 

Because of this difference when I mount the hubs on the axles the shallow one does not give me room on the axle to put the collar on because the bearing & race aren't deep enough. Tomorrow I might try & grind away enough of the inside so these will be recessed enough to be the same. If not I will PM GL to see if he still has the other smaller hubs that everyone else has. I'll have to order the other type of bearings. This GT had two mis matched tires, two mis matched hubs, & two mis matched wheels on the front....just a challenge  :wallbanging:


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#123 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 06, 2014 - 05:15 PM

They appear to be from a different tractor completely but still use the three bolt wheel. Other GTs did use the same wheel. Yours are heavier than the 990 hubs and have the tapered bearing. The hubs I have use the plain pressed in bearings.

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  • Image 01.jpg

Edited by VTXrider, October 06, 2014 - 05:23 PM.

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#124 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 02:34 PM

Thanks to GL I got the smaller hubs yesterday. Since the bearings seem to be in good shape I decided to leave them in. Because of this I chose to wire brush the hubs to prevent SB media from getting into the bearings. I also got some new tie rod ends, drag link ends & a pair of thrust bearings for the spindles. I have not had any me time lately so I'm hoping by the beginning of next week I can start making some good progress. Thanks!

 

hubs1.jpg hubs2.jpg hubs3.jpg



#125 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 04:47 PM

Sorry if this may be a repeat of an earlier post. I am a believer after reading about putting the "poor man's power steering" on the spindles of the 990. If you are going to plow or blow snow, these help. With all the new rod ends and good hubs, hopefully everything is nice and tight. Does your steering box need work?

 

I tried these thrust bearings on one of my Craftsman mowers but did not see much of reduction in steering force.

 

These are from McMaster Carr. 

http://www.mcmaster....earings/=u71oif

5909K33 with two .032 washers 5909K46

 

These fit nicely on the bottom and the shaft collar still locks in place on top. You can see them on the picture above.

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  • Image 01.jpg

Edited by VTXrider, October 17, 2014 - 04:49 PM.

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#126 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2014 - 11:31 AM

I agree on the" Poor Man's Power Steering" by using the thrust bearings. I got mine from a vendor on eBay for a good cost Made in USA. The only problem I had with my steering was a worn pinion gear. I got one from Doug ( DH1 ) that's in a lot better shape than mine. 


Edited by Sawdust, October 18, 2014 - 11:31 AM.

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#127 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 09:50 PM

Well the MTD990 hanging parts racks are slowly becoming bare. I must say for my first rebuild this is coming along very nicely. I only had to do one thing twice....so far  :D  I know this has been mentioned many times & I can't emphasize enough to take plenty of before pics to go back & refresh your memory. I have two complete tractors dismantled & because of not ever doing this before I took plenty of pics to jog my memory. I have most of the frame done. I painted my hydraulic cylinder & valve today but it needs to sit over night to dry. I'm getting a little concerned because of everything being black. The hood, fenders, & grill are normally the only thing that has color. I may also paint the belt cover the same also.  My thoughts on these are the Chevy Camaro Synergy Green or the Dodge Truck Intense Pearl Blue. I'm thinking about going back & painting all the control sticks silver or a gun metal gray....any suggestions??

 

Some new front end parts

New parts1.jpg Thrust Bearings.jpg

 

Bolts all categorized 

Bolts.jpg

 

A little before & after pic of the tranny. That jack stand holding the tranny up was my first welding project in the 7th grade metal shop class in 1967. I have used these my whole life.  I totally winged the design & got an A  :D

ref38.jpg Assembly8.jpg

 

Assembly11.jpg Assembly12.jpg Assembly13.jpg

 

I got a few Honey to do things to do for tomorrow morning. I'm not sure what to do yet on my rear tires & wheels. I recently bought some Wheel Horse 5 lug hubs to convert but chose not to for right now. I think I'll go ahead & clean these wheels & use the original tires for now...their in bad shape but hold air. I also really need to get my steering wheel off so I can go ahead & put the steering back on leaving the dash box off. I was planning on doing that during cold weather. Your thoughts & suggestions are very much welcomed. 


Edited by Sawdust, October 22, 2014 - 11:33 PM.

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#128 mrmr56 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2014 - 10:05 PM

Looking good. I bought a set of 670/15 implement traction tires for the rear of mine along with new tubes. I am going to get them mounted in the morning and I will let you know how they work out. Switching out hubs, finding new wide wheels, and then buying new tires was going to be in the $400 to $500 range so if these work, it will be much cheaper. My old original tires hold air fine but they are so hard that they have no traction.


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#129 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2014 - 07:11 AM

Nice to get a rolling chassis and the steering will help in the shop. The brake disc and pad holder looks very good and the trans cleaned up great. There is a bolt head behind the disc that can rub on the disc if it slides on the shaft (anti-seize or grease needed on the shaft). I ground that down so it would not damage the disc more.

 

A suggestion I give a lot is to put anti-seize on everything. If not that, at least oil the threads. I put grease on every moving part as it is assembled. Try to get grease into the steering rod ends also. 

 

The wheels are a lot of work. I saved them for last. I changed my mind about them several times. Ended up taking the tires off all the rims and painting them. A lot of elbow grease was needed. Sand blasting would have been easier but cost too much.


Edited by VTXrider, October 23, 2014 - 07:18 AM.

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#130 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 09:45 PM

Looking good! Thanks for the update and pics!


Edited by Gabriel, October 26, 2014 - 09:46 PM.

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#131 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2014 - 11:16 PM

I kind of went backwards a little on Saturday. Like I mentioned I didn't like all the black. I took all the control levers off & painted them Metallic Charcoal...pics of these when they dry. I really like this color it's not too loud & blends good with the black.

 

 I took VTXrider's advice on the bolt behind the brake disc. The lower bolt is very close to the disc & will damage it when the disc wears down.

brake disc6.jpg brake disc7.jpg

 

I removed the lower bolt, ground it off with a right angle grinder & I also switched out the factory split type lock washer with an internal star type lock washer. This like he said will prevent the disc from hitting the bolt as it wears.

brake disc8.jpg

 


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#132 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2014 - 04:36 AM

The inner brake pad is what wears. I don't know why the pads wear, it is only a parking brake. Over the years, it seems to. 


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#133 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2014 - 09:49 PM

Today I put all the parts back on that I removed Saturday so I could paint them with the Metalic Charcoal. I also cleaned the rear wheels up & painted them black. They cleaned up pretty easily. I normally sand blast but these weren't too bad.

 

These are some of the levers I painted...let me know what you think & be honest  :D

 

Charcoal paint1.jpg Charcoal paint3.jpg Charcoal paint2.jpg Charcoal paint4.jpg

 

I'm not sure how this spring works at the bottom of the lever. I know it's suppose to keep pressure on the lever but mine is different than the one in the manual. This one seems to do nothing because the lever has a lot of slop moving it sideways. 

Charcoal paint5.jpg

 

We will be leaving for Gatlinburg this week so I won't be doing anything for awhile. Be back soon!

 

 


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#134 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2014 - 04:24 AM

If you notice the wear mark above the bracket, that is where the spring used to contact the speed control lever. Your spring is broken as are most.

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  • spring.jpg

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#135 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2014 - 09:36 AM

These are some of the levers I painted...let me know what you think & be honest  :D

 

 

Your levers look nice! I don't think the color you painted them detracts from the tractor.


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