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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#106 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2014 - 10:13 PM

What's missing in this pic......the drive shaft yoke.

attachicon.gifyoke & shaft.jpg

 

Hallelujah ! I had my torch on the job last week & I brought it home today. I added a little heat, a few taps with my ball joint remover & it came right off.

attachicon.giftool.jpg

 

I also took the brake pedal, the control lever & a few small pieces off. All the roll pins came out without a struggle.

attachicon.gifrestore2.jpg

 

I seen a bearing remover tool at Harbor Freight for about $50. bucks. I think I'll pick that up tomorrow & try that this week. It looks like it would be a good steering wheel remover the way the cups are milled into the plates.

http://www.harborfre...-set-93980.html

Wow I did a steering wheel removal search on here & looks like this tool is very popular. Now I know I'll be getting it. I'll wait until the 4th a big 25% off day for a single item. The mind is a wonderful thing especially with more than one working towards the same goal.



#107 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2014 - 08:56 AM

Good to hear you got the DS off.

Let me know when you buy the steering wheel/bearing tool tool, I may need to borrow it    :rolling:  :rolling:

 

I think the bearing separator may work better using he flat side if your steering wheel has a flat underneath.

I ended up having to cut a slot in the side of the steering wheel on my Sears parts tractor, good thing it was broke already and I didn't need it. 


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#108 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2014 - 07:41 PM

I took the day off for some much needed rest or should I say GTT (garden tractor time). I had never planned on doing a complete dis assembly on this GT mainly because I have my MF12 all apart & primed ready for paint. I can't half do anything so I went for it. Today I took the last piece off which was the Lift Shaft Assembly. Looking at this I started to leave it attached but this prevented me from getting the side plate off. I wouldn't be satisfied leaving this on because of rust creeping around the corners in a couple of years. The assembly came off rather easy to my surprise. I had been soaking the shaft for a few days. I turned the frame on it's side with a 2x6 under the frame next to the shaft so the impact would not be totally on the frame but transferred to the ground. After just a few taps on the end of the shaft it started to slide out. I have been overwhelmed working on this GT mainly because it looks like a rust bucket. The only resistance I have had during this whole job was getting the yoke off as I mentioned earlier & the steering wheel but that's expected. I do need to get the brake disc off so I can remove the plate on top of the tranny. I did some research some say it just slides off & others say use a puller. I'll get to that later this week.  Any suggestions on this? I have a lot of parts to clean & sand blast so stay tuned in. Thanks again for looking.

 

ref37.jpg ref38.jpg


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#109 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted July 10, 2014 - 12:06 PM

It does slide off, there is a half moon key on the shaft. Soak with Kroil or PB Blaster. Use a long heavy screw driver or pry bar on the center hub from behind and drive it off with a hammer.


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#110 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 05:19 PM

Still soaking & waiting on the brake disc. While that's cooking I went to finish sand the hood & tunnel & found a surprise. When I sand blast I normally hit the edges first then the flat areas but for some reason I missed a lot of the edges on the hood. I wire brushed it, sanded again, & brushed some rust reformer on these critical areas. The tunnel was in good shape. I also picked up a pair of 5 lug 1 1/8" shaft Wheel Horse Hubs on ebay & most of you know why a 990 guy wants these. Hopefully soon I'll be shopping for some tires & wheels.

 

wh hubs1.JPG wh hubs2.JPG

 

I also picked up six cans of  black paint but I'm not sure I'll use it. Most of the black I had on the tractor looked more like satin black than gloss. I'm going to hit the underneath of the tunnel to see if it's too shiny.

 

http://www.walmart.c...0#ProductDetail


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#111 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 06:36 PM

Just caught up and read the whole thread.......well done.

 

i used both satin and gloss black on mine and the gloss black would be my choice.

 

I did not need a puller on the brake disk on mine. I soaked it for a few days and heated just the hub section of the disk while placing a large wooded wedge I cut in the shape of a fork behind it and a tap or two ad the disk came free.

 

Nothing at all like the steering wheel and u joint hubs. They fought until the last bit with the pullers on there.


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#112 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 07:12 PM

My choice would be the gloss black also. Looks better.

I buy the Rust-Ole-Um black and red when it's on sale - which is not very often - for the next restore project. I use the Rust-Restore spray as a primer on the rusty areas which are cleaned as best I can. 

 

On another note, I am debating whether to scrap a 73' 990 frame. 


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#113 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 08:14 PM

I'm hoping the gloss looks good too, sometimes on certain areas satin looks like a bad paint job. Another thing I'm debating is the color of the tunnel. I know originally it was black but I have seen some painted to match the fenders & hood. I have two colors in mind & I could go either way. Dodge Pearl Intense Blue or the Lime Green that Daniel painted his Unico15. I think the green is a Jeep color similar to Chevy's Senergy Green. I'm leaning more towards the blue to be different. Thanks guys for your input.

Edited by Sawdust, July 13, 2014 - 08:16 PM.

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#114 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 08:22 PM

Major accomplishment today. I finally got my brake disc off. I have been soaking, heating, tapping, pulling & praying for this thing to come off. I used a three jaw puller but no can do just mushroomed the disc. What made it work was sliding a tapered metal chisel under the disc hub between the hub & housing. Tapping this a few times with the puller torqued made it pop like a rifle. I was afraid to look I could just see my chisel inside the cracked housing but no it popped right off with no damage. I had to straighten my brake disc back to normal. I also don't need the steering wheel off since I dismantled the whole assembly. I will be needing a steering pinion gear since mine is worn pretty bad. Anyone have a good one let me know. I also SB some parts including the frame. I got it primed with two finish coats. I like this paint a lot, nice wide spray pattern, covers fast, dries fast & the can sprays at any angle. I sprayed my tunnel & 15 minutes later it started to rain. It never got wet but when I took it to the garage to hang, it hit my t-shirt & now I have fuzzy lint stuck on one side. I'll have to sand this & repaint. I'm on my phone now but will post some pics tomorrow.
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#115 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 07:46 PM

Major accomplishment today. I finally got my brake disc off. I have been soaking, heating, tapping, pulling & praying for this thing to come off. I used a three jaw puller but no can do just mushroomed the disc. What made it work was sliding a tapered metal chisel under the disc hub between the hub & housing. Tapping this a few times with the puller torqued made it pop like a rifle. I was afraid to look I could just see my chisel inside the cracked housing but no it popped right off with no damage. I had to straighten my brake disc back to normal. I also don't need the steering wheel off since I dismantled the whole assembly. I will be needing a steering pinion gear since mine is worn pretty bad. Anyone have a good one let me know. I also SB some parts including the frame. I got it primed with two finish coats. I like this paint a lot, nice wide spray pattern, covers fast, dries fast & the can sprays at any angle. I sprayed my tunnel & 15 minutes later it started to rain. It never got wet but when I took it to the garage to hang, it hit my t-shirt & now I have fuzzy lint stuck on one side. I'll have to sand this & repaint. I'm on my phone now but will post some pics tomorrow.

Ok as I promised some pics.

I don't think a puller helps much because the disc just bends to the point of warping it. Therefore not much pulling on the hub itself.

brake disc1.jpg

 

Here's how it looked when I got it off

brake disc3.jpg

 

I took one of my old trailer wheels & used it as a anvil. I simply placed it in the hub area then using a block of wood I pounded it several times with a three pound hammer. This worked great because the wheel hub hole gave the brake hub plenty of room to be pounded down back to normal with the edges of the disc held against the wheel.

brake disc5.jpg

 

After a few pounds I placed the disc back on. I turned it measuring where the disc was still high or low.

brake disc4.jpg

 

As I mentioned nothing would work for me until I used a metal chisel between the hub & housing with a few slight taps with a hammer. I drove a hardwood shim next to the metal chisel. This kept the chisel in place under the hub.

brake disc2.jpg

 

I sandblasted the frame then primed it with the Rustoleum Etching Primer. I then painted with Gloss Black.

frame primed.jpg frame painted.jpg frame paint.jpg

 

All I done today was sandblasted some more parts then I primed them. I don't like SB no more than I can prime asap because of flash rust. Be back soon.


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#116 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 09:51 PM

Your frame looks nice! Glad you got your brake disc off!
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#117 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2014 - 05:53 PM

Well I did some painting today with the finish coat. I only have a few pieces left to SB plus the rear axle. I ordered some wheel bearings, thrust bearings, & tie rod ends yesterday. I can't wait to have a rolling chassis on this one.

 

finish paint.jpg



#118 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2014 - 09:46 PM

I can't believe it's been over a month since I posted anything, I hope I'm not boring everyone. I can't help to be a perfectionist. I realized today I missed a big spot under the tranny when I pressure washed. I could have ignored it but I couldn't so I had to hand scrub this area....too cold for PW.

 

Assembly1.jpg Assembly3.jpg

 

I painted my brake disc then I marked with a scribe where the pads would touch & wire brushed the paint off so it wouldn't gum up the pads.

 

Assembly2.jpg assembly5.jpg

 

I had a hard time deciding whether to paint the aluminum parts black or not. It would have been easier but of coarse I chose the harder way. I masked off the aluminum parts so I could paint the pump. Since most of this GT is black I think the aluminum will look good bare.

 

Assembly8.jpg assembly7.jpg

 

If you remember I had mis matched wheels one with lugs & the other with the later version center bearing. thanks to GL I got some matching wheels. I mounted some new Carlisle 16 x 6.50 x 8  4 ply Turf Savers.

 

wheels.jpg New tires.jpg

 

I had a lot of trouble with the hubs I got from GL trying to find out info on them. Everyone said MTD only had one version but these actually have car bearings. I bought the bearings not knowing they had no rubber seals. I contacted Timken & they said the seals were not available without buying them with the bearings.  :wallbanging:  I took some 5/8" washers because they fit good inside the hubs. I drilled the hole to 3/4" to fit the spindles. I think with the washers & maybe a felt washer behind the metal washer will keep the dirt out. I saw a pack of the felt washers that go on top of battery posts & they look like a good fit....something to think about  :tapping_fingers:

assembly6.jpg

 

I got a few parts on along with the frame, it sure feels good putting things back together finally. 

 

Assembly9.jpg

 

Comments, questions, & suggestions are very welcomed & thanks for waiting so long with me.

 

Pic 6  of the hitch plate looks like it has a big rust spot in the middle but it doesn't just a reflection. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Assembly4.jpg

Edited by Sawdust, October 04, 2014 - 09:50 PM.

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#119 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2014 - 08:09 AM

Looking nice Jim! 

 

My question to Timken would've been...." If the seals are only available when you buy the bearings, then why didn't they come with the bearings when you buy them? " 


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#120 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2014 - 01:43 PM

[quote name="TAHOE" post="498703" timestamp="1412514581"]

Looking nice Jim!

My question to Timken would've been...." If the seals are only available when you buy the bearings, then why didn't they come with the bearings when you buy them? " [/quote

Marty I found out the hard way you can buy the bearings with or without the seal. I just assumed what I bought came with the seal.
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