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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#91 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2014 - 12:01 AM

Nice work!

Can you tell me about your sand blaster setup?

Kind of primitive but it works great. I like SB outside even though I have a cabinet. For the big stuff I use play sand. I roll out plastic for a floor, then make shift a couple side walls with scrap drywall or plywood whatever I have to keep the sand from escaping. This allows me to re-use it several times until it gets too powdery. I start out with the sand in a bucket with a siphon hose. After awhile when it starts to pile up I just drag the pickup tube along the piles by my feet. I occasionally stop & sweep it closer to me.  For some reason I have always liked limiting the amount of sand to the pickup tube. When it lays in the bucket it draws too much sand & doesn't work as well. Now before everyone starts complaining at me I know using play sand is not recommended. I take all the necessary precautions. I did have a pressure pot but I never could get it to work very well. It was a cheapy from NT, I had to send it back for a refund. Hope this helps.


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#92 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted May 26, 2014 - 08:11 AM

I ordered a new ignition switch & the rubber bushing that goes in the bottom of the fuel tank. I managed to prime what I sb & removing the decals wasn't easy. I heated & scraped as I went but not too hot to melt because it turns into snot rolling around. I still had to clean the glue residue off with acetone because it just loaded up the sanding disc. One side of my hood had several small dings. I used a few different hammers & a splitting wedge to pound them out. I guess I need to invest in some body work tools now. I'll get some pics up later today.
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#93 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 11:20 AM

I did the same thing when I sand blasted the frame from my camaro. I built an enclosure out of plastic then swept up floor and reused a coupel times. I also used play sand and used a very good respirator to prevent the silica dust from getting in. If you can find one, get a "tyvex" suit, the white zip up suits w/hood used in contamination instances. It sure kept the sand outta my under britches! :thumbs:


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#94 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2014 - 04:13 PM

I sand blasted most of the day Saturday. This rust was pitted bad in a few areas on my fenders. I also SB the MF12 wheels the one front was in bad shape but came out pretty good.

 

This is what happens when your bored with SB

hood4.jpg

 

Some dings showed up under the decals

hood1.jpg

 

I hammered them out the best I could then skim coated with Bondo

hood2.jpg hood3.jpg

 

The fenders have some pitting I'll have to deal with next

fender1.jpg

 

I'll probably pull the grille off next & wire brush it since it's aluminum. Next I'll start taking the parts off the frame so I can get it done soon. 


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#95 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2014 - 09:01 PM

Have you made any recent progress on your 990?



#96 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2014 - 10:09 PM

Just what I showed previously above.
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#97 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2014 - 05:59 PM

I had a good weekend as far as time for some me time. I did some more filling , priming & sanding etc.on the fenders. Right when I thought I was done I had to add more spot filler.

fender3.jpg fender4.jpg fender5.jpg fender6.jpg fender2.jpg hood6.jpg

 

I also removed the engine & a few parts to get to the frame. I have two set backs one is the typical problem of removing the steering wheel & the other is getting the yoke off of the shaft in front of the pump. My plastic fan was already cracked so I cut it off to expose the shaft better. I seen a good tutorial on how to remove this so I'll go back & find that to refresh my short memory.

frame1.jpg yoke.jpg

 

 

Another issue are some worn linkages that are egg shaped. I'll weld the holes up & re-drill the holes on these. After having this GT for several months now I recently noticed I have not only two different new front tires the wheels & hubs don't match either.  :hitting_self_roller: Thanks to GLGrumpy he fixed me up with two 3 lug hubs & a pair of 3 lug wheels. 

worn1.jpg wheel1.jpg wheel2.jpg

 

On my fenders I can see some spot welds where the fenders are attached to the sides. I also have a few rivets in these what looks like factory holes. My question is are these rivets factory? If so I'll redo these & if not I'll remove & tack weld. Thanks for watching!

rivets.jpg


Edited by Sawdust, June 29, 2014 - 09:39 PM.

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#98 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2014 - 09:07 PM

Interesting.  My fenders were riveted but had none of the spot welds I see on yours.

 

As far as the driveshaft goes, I just removed the set screw at the front yoke / crankshaft and then knocked out the roll pin holding the shaft in the rear u-joint (shown in your hydro picture.)  Collapsing the shaft back through the yoke until it bottomed on the cross gave enough clearance to get the whole assembly free from the crank end.  The rear yoke just slides off the hydro input shaft.


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#99 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2014 - 09:59 PM

Interesting.  My fenders were riveted but had none of the spot welds I see on yours.

 

As far as the driveshaft goes, I just removed the set screw at the front yoke / crankshaft and then knocked out the roll pin holding the shaft in the rear u-joint (shown in your hydro picture.)  Collapsing the shaft back through the yoke until it bottomed on the cross gave enough clearance to get the whole assembly free from the crank end.  The rear yoke just slides off the hydro input shaft.

Jim it was Lost Pup that had the same problem I'm having about the joint not sliding off the output shaft. I also read where yours just slid off. I'll soak it for a few days & try again prying gently. Even though my u joints all seem to be solid would you suggest replacing them? I know this tractor looks like a rust bucket but I am very pleased on what I'm seeing. I do think it was maintained but just left outside a lot.  All the hoses & fittings are dry, engine had no leaks, carb was clean, & even though they don't match somebody thought enough of it to give it new tires up front.  :D


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#100 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2014 - 10:05 PM

I had a good weekend as far as time for some me time. I did some more filling , priming & sanding etc.on the fenders. Right when I thought I was done I had to add more spot filler.

attachicon.giffender3.jpgattachicon.giffender4.jpgattachicon.giffender5.jpgattachicon.giffender6.jpgattachicon.giffender2.jpgattachicon.gifhood6.jpg

 

I also removed the engine & a few parts to get to the frame. I have two set backs one is the typical problem of removing the steering wheel & the other is getting the yoke off of the shaft in front of the pump. My plastic fan was already cracked so I cut it off to expose the shaft better. I seen a good tutorial on how to remove this so I'll go back & find that to refresh my short memory.

attachicon.gifframe1.jpgattachicon.gifyoke.jpg

 

 

Another issue are some worn linkages that are egg shaped. I'll weld the holes up & re-drill the holes on these. After having this GT for several months now I recently noticed I have not only two different new front tires the wheels & hubs don't match either.  :hitting_self_roller: Thanks to GLGrumpy he fixed me up with two 3 lug hubs & a pair of 3 lug wheels. 

attachicon.gifworn1.jpgattachicon.gifwheel1.jpgattachicon.gifwheel2.jpg

 

On my fenders I can see some spot welds where the fenders are attached to the sides. I also have a few rivets in these what looks like factory holes. My question is are these rivets factory? If so I'll redo these & if not I'll remove & tack weld. Thanks for watching!

attachicon.gifrivets.jpg

Looking good!



#101 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2014 - 06:57 AM

I like seeing your progress pictures Sawdust. The pop rivets are factory, there should be no welds attaching any sheet metal. Nice of GL to supply you with hard to find wheels and hubs. The steering wheel is a frustration, trying not to damage it. Lots of penetrating oil and careful application of heat worked for me.

 

Soaking the drive shaft with PB Blaster or Kroil should free up the rear coupler. The shaft is keyed. I used a long pry bar from the rear and hit it with a hammer until it started moving. Putting the pry bar into the u-joint and into the space between the pump and coupler, using care when striking the bar. It will eventually come off. The other option is Lost Pup's puller. When re-assembling, Never-Seize on all surfaces will ensure easy removal next time.

 

The u-joints on the drive shaft should be ok if they are tight. They are not that hard to replace if you need to in the future.


Edited by VTXrider, June 30, 2014 - 07:02 AM.

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#102 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2014 - 08:52 AM

Nice progress Jim. I got a couple hoods you can do for me in your free time  :poke:  :poke:  :thumbs:  :D

 

hey, on side note, do you do any router work? I was given one of those router lathe things that you can like make a mirrored table leg from a pattern using a router or just use the router as a lathe. I will never use it and it has to go when I move.....yours if you would want it. 

Still working on removing that Sears front axle, I mushroomed the bolt so now I got cut it out somehow  :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:


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#103 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2014 - 05:36 PM

Nice progress Jim. I got a couple hoods you can do for me in your free time :poke: :poke: :thumbs: :D

hey, on side note, do you do any router work? I was given one of those router lathe things that you can like make a mirrored table leg from a pattern using a router or just use the router as a lathe. I will never use it and it has to go when I move.....yours if you would want it.
Still working on removing that Sears front axle, I mushroomed the bolt so now I got cut it out somehow :wallbanging: :wallbanging:



#104 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2014 - 05:42 PM

[quote name="Sawdust" post="469022" timestamp="1404167816"]

[quote name="TAHOE" post="468901" timestamp="1404136360"]
Nice progress Jim. I got a couple hoods you can do for me in your free time :poke: :poke: :thumbs: :D

hey, on side note, do you do any router work? I was given one of those router lathe things that you can like make a mirrored table leg from a pattern using a router or just use the router as a lathe. I will never use it and it has to go when I move.....yours if you would want it.
Still working on removing that Sears front axle, I mushroomed the bolt so now I got cut it out somehow :wallbanging: :wallbanging:[/quote][/quote


Sorry for the double quote I hate typing on my phone. Thanks Marty I'm in no hurry on the axle. I removed the atv tires I mentioned, I'll bring them to you when I come.

#105 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2014 - 09:34 PM

What's missing in this pic......the drive shaft yoke.

yoke & shaft.jpg

 

Hallelujah ! I had my torch on the job last week & I brought it home today. I added a little heat, a few taps with my ball joint remover & it came right off.

tool.jpg

 

I also took the brake pedal, the control lever & a few small pieces off. All the roll pins came out without a struggle.

restore2.jpg

 

I seen a bearing remover tool at Harbor Freight for about $50. bucks. I think I'll pick that up tomorrow & try that this week. It looks like it would be a good steering wheel remover the way the cups are milled into the plates.

http://www.harborfre...-set-93980.html






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