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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#61 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2014 - 10:40 PM

I've been finding out that its best to go over everything before popping a battery in and hitting the go switch. Corrosion can drive you nuts.
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#62 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2014 - 09:53 AM

I've been finding out that its best to go over everything before popping a battery in and hitting the go switch. Corrosion can drive you nuts.

I agree 100% Jim



#63 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2014 - 09:53 AM

Well I got some good news & bad news, good first. I tried pulling & twisting slighty but couldn't get the brass bushing to move at all. I didn't really spend too much time trying because I didn't want to damage or collapse the bushing. I did use the method explained in the B&S Repairmans Handbook & this method surprisingly was simple.  http://gardentractor...-engine-manual/

 

This pic shows the part of the plunger rod I snapped off then I pushed it in to make room for tapping

post-36549-0-17263100-1395104102_thumb.j

 

I used a 1/4-20 tap & threaded 1/2" deep

post-36549-0-51626000-1395104086_thumb.j

 

Make sure you back out to clear the threads even though the brass is soft. I put oil on the tap to hold the shavings in the flutes. I also removed the tap a few times & blowed the tap clean & vacumed the hole a few times as well

post-36549-0-33260400-1395104079_thumb.j post-36549-0-70527100-1395104066_thumb.j

 

I threaded the bolt in all the way then backed it out about an 1/8" then sized up some washers to make a puller

post-36549-0-43351000-1395104071_thumb.j post-36549-0-17362200-1395104059_thumb.j

 

This pic shows how long the tip was that I broke off

post-36549-0-14132600-1395104097_thumb.j

 

The plunger after I removed it

post-36549-0-41130200-1395104091_thumb.j

 

I'm really not sure how this got bent. If you remember my bushing was not pushed in as far as it should have been. I'm thinking the plunger got sloppy because of not enough bushing to ride in & got caught on the cam lobe. Now the bad news. I used a 1/4" dowel rod with a narrow piece of cloth & pushed into the cam lobe & turned the drive shaft slowly to clean the lobe. I looked inside & my cam lobe has a distinctive groove in the center. To me it looks damaged. The edges of the riser looks good but the middle of it has a groove. It dosen't look like friction wear but because of the bent plunger I'm thinking it has cut a groove into the lobe. This looks like a candidate for electronics or maybe a project for next winter. While I was cleaning the lobe I noticed some slop back & forth in the camshaft. I'm not sure what is exceptable but I'm thinking a complete rebuild this winter.   :tapping_fingers:


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#64 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2014 - 03:47 PM

I bought this on ebay today. I know it'll be awhile before I need it but I just couldn't pass it up. 

131130641578_1.jpg



#65 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2014 - 08:38 PM

It ain't that bad, but it's a drag when you're so close to firing it up. Just think about it running and you will get it done. Fixin' these cheap tractors is fun, remember?...HA! Well I finally put an NOS starter in the SS/18 today and it was a bit of a pain. As soon as you touch the key, it fires right up now. I was getting real tired of having to jump the thing this winter.
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#66 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2014 - 09:12 PM

I feel like I'm dressing up the wagon before the horse but I couldn't wait to see the light panel on. I borrowed the headlights from the Massey to see how it worked out. Sure made a difference in the front.

 

tt10.jpg lights.jpg


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#67 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2014 - 09:17 PM

Looks good!



#68 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2014 - 07:17 AM

You are starting to see the beauty in your old girl. By dressing her up, it give more incentive to stick with the project.


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#69 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 07:04 PM

I have been searching for these hood latches. I seen some after market latches for other similar tractors & looked cheap. These are new OEM parts that match what I needed. I got them for a good price including shipping.

 

$_3.JPG


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#70 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 07:01 PM

BIG update guys. If you have been following my MTD adventure you know I had some problems with firing. I did some research on the electronic ignition modules. I figured instead of buying parts & having to change out the cam because of the damage the points push rod did $12.49 including shipping wouldn't be a bad choice. I chose the Nova II. I just did a temporary install because I will be rewiring & it fired right up, nice hot cracking spark. It actually took me longer to get it out of the box & bag than it did to install it. I was so impressed not to mention very happy. :dancingbanana:  I knew this wasn't enough & I wanted to hear this ole girl run. I have been soaking my fuel tank in apple cider vinegar so I had to rig up a fuel system. I couldn't get it to take gas in the inlet nipple so I took a squirt bottle & gave the open carb a shot & it started right up & took off about two feet & I grabbed the brake  :hitting_self_roller:  I forgot to put the brake on & put it in neutral. I took a moment to regroup & gave her another crank & some squirts of gas & it ran so well. I never heard any clacking or seen any smoke at all. I only let it run about three minutes because of the oil coming out of the screw holes under the points case. I took the carb off to inspect & clean that tomorrow, hopefully it's just a stuck float. My first phase was to rewire it so since I know it runs now I'll do that first, I can't stand all them wires hanging everywhere. I'm not sure if my ignition switch works because I have what looks like a kill switch or starter button on the dash where the cig lighter goes. I'll have to trace the wires down to figure this out. My wife says it's a horn button but no horn so that blows that theory  :bigrofl: . A couple thoughts. Has anyone eliminated the safety switches? I'm suppose to have two but only see one, the second plug is there but no switch. The instructions say to mount the module on a good ground. I want to plug all the holes under the points cover & put that back on. I'm thinking using one of the mounting screws for the P cover would be good, any other suggestions.

 

nova II.jpg


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#71 classic ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 08:35 PM

Glad to hear you got it goin'!! You'll be using it before you know it. I'm looking into getting some rolls of the correct color and size wire for the Suburban 12's. Some of the wires crack if you bend them so it's time to rewire before something burns up.
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#72 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 09:25 PM

BIG update guys. If you have been following my MTD adventure you know I had some problems with firing. I did some research on the electronic ignition modules. I figured instead of buying parts & having to change out the cam because of the damage the points push rod did $12.49 including shipping wouldn't be a bad choice. I chose the Nova II. I just did a temporary install because I will be rewiring & it fired right up, nice hot cracking spark. It actually took me longer to get it out of the box & bag than it did to install it. I was so impressed not to mention very happy. :dancingbanana:  I knew this wasn't enough & I wanted to hear this ole girl run. I have been soaking my fuel tank in apple cider vinegar so I had to rig up a fuel system. I couldn't get it to take gas in the inlet nipple so I took a squirt bottle & gave the open carb a shot & it started right up & took off about two feet & I grabbed the brake  :hitting_self_roller:  I forgot to put the brake on & put it in neutral. I took a moment to regroup & gave her another crank & some squirts of gas & it ran so well. I never heard any clacking or seen any smoke at all. I only let it run about three minutes because of the oil coming out of the screw holes under the points case. I took the carb off to inspect & clean that tomorrow, hopefully it's just a stuck float. My first phase was to rewire it so since I know it runs now I'll do that first, I can't stand all them wires hanging everywhere. I'm not sure if my ignition switch works because I have what looks like a kill switch or starter button on the dash where the cig lighter goes. I'll have to trace the wires down to figure this out. My wife says it's a horn button but no horn so that blows that theory  :bigrofl: . A couple thoughts. Has anyone eliminated the safety switches? I'm suppose to have two but only see one, the second plug is there but no switch. The instructions say to mount the module on a good ground. I want to plug all the holes under the points cover & put that back on. I'm thinking using one of the mounting screws for the P cover would be good, any other suggestions.
 
attachicon.gifnova II.jpg

Great news!
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#73 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2014 - 10:30 PM

I like the 990s I tried my best to buy one from a guy last year, but he said he used it too much.


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#74 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2014 - 08:42 PM

I spent a lot of time cleaning my gas tank. I had a lot of skummy residue laying in the bottom only. I soaked with apple cider vinegar for two days wasn't too impressed. It stayed clear the whole time until I dumped about a pound of lock washers & shake & shake & shake. It's clean now  :dancingbanana:

gastank2.jpg

 

I had some trouble with this rubber grommet in the bottom of the tank. It had a small crack not all the way through so I put some clear silicone around the shoulder of it.

 

gastank.jpg

 

I took my carb off to dismantle it to find out why it wouldn't take any gas. The gas line nipple was full of dirt & the inside of the carb was also. I guess the little creatures had a couple of years of storage packed in there. The float bowl was nice & clean & no residue at all.

 

carb2.jpg carb1.jpg

 

I plugged up my holes where the points & breaker use to be. I tapped the brass sleeve in & put a bolt in the threaded hole I made earlier for removal.

 

holeplugs.jpg

 

I want to pressure wash this in a couple of days so I took the sheet metal off or should I say iron pieces. I thought my MF12 was heavy duty but this thing has some steel in it.

 

restore1.jpg

 

I scraped as much dirt as I could & sprayed it down with some Gunk Concentrated mixed with Kerosene as a base to soften up any stuff I couldn't get to. If the weather permits I want to pressure wash tomorrow then I'll put the carb & tank back on & hopefully all goes well. I'm anxious to see if the hydraulics work. My next phase is to start sand blasting the fenders, tunnel, tool box & so on then start taking it down to the frame.


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#75 classic ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2014 - 08:08 AM

Is that muffler original to the tractor? It looks like the same one that should be on some of the Suburbans. Glad to see the project is moving along!
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