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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#181 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 10:15 PM

My thoughts were it had such a very tacky back I coudn't believe using water was an option. I think we both made the right decision.

#182 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2015 - 03:41 PM

Well I think I made the worst mistake so far on this tractor. I don't know why I thought i couldn't use the normal Rust-oleum paint on my dash box. I have used it many times on plastic with no problems. I used their paint for plastic on my dash box & was very happy with it. It covered well, leveled out perfect & had a nice gloss to it.  After two days I got the same paint in a clear to give it a coat for protection. I hung it in my heated basement for over a  week before I touched it. The problem was it scratched very easily by just touching it...looked like scuff marks  :mad2:  I have since sanded the finish down & re painted with the same paint I used on the rest of the metal parts.

 

This is the paint for plastic I used & didn't like. It may be good for other projects but not for me.

Paint used2.jpg

 

I have been wiring a few hours here & there for the last few days. It looks like a mess right now but it's coming along very well. Another thing I found out don't put the fuel tank on before you run the wiring.   :wallbanging:

Wiring5.jpg


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#183 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2015 - 04:01 PM

Looks like some progress is being made!


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#184 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 05, 2015 - 04:01 PM

I've used that 2X paints on a tractor and very easy to have it kind of seperate the colorants or whatever and get whitish in streaks. the whole idea is that you don't need as many coats, it comes out heavy and doesn't work well if you don't make it heavy, but is easy to run on vertical surfaces. DOES take for-ever to dry, even in summer. I've had parts look great, go eat and come back and they look distressed and not equally colored and such.  It also seems to be a little softer, even after long time. My G-daughter washed her tractor once with car soap and it spotted and smeared real bad. Luckily we got it back OK with diff soap. Think it is more of a Hobbie paint really. Does have some neat colors, the reason we used in first place.


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#185 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2015 - 10:52 AM

Made any more progress, Jim?
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#186 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2015 - 08:18 PM

We've had a lot of rain lately so been doing some minor stuff until recently. I never had a Throttle lever knob. I looked around for awhile & thought about my wife's craft stuff  :dancingbanana:

 

I started out choosing from several different sizes. These are hard wood wooden balls that you can get at most craft stores.

Shift knob1.jpg Shift knob2.jpg shift knob3.jpg

 

I wasn't very happy about my step plates because I chose not to fill the rust pits because I was going to cover them with some anti-slip material. I took the paint back down to bare metal filled in & painted. Now I can cover just the area that's needed & not see any pits.

Step plate1.jpg Step plate2.jpg

 

Me & this tool box had a few wrestling matches before I got it back to looking normal. It looked like the PO loved to back into things or he liked to be ram rodded. The whole back end of it was a half round shape. If you notice the middle pic I primed it thinking it was suppose to be half rounded. After seeing a few pics of others I realized it had to be flattened out. You can also see the two wires I ran for a tail light & a back up utility light that will be switched. I will be adding a light bar for this using the factory mounting holes. I have only seen one other tractor with factory lights.

Before 

tt12.jpg tool box.jpg Tool box2.jpg

 

My wiring is complete with the exception of mounting the cig lighter. Since I don't have a use for this I will be installing a power port here. I also ran a plastic conduit for the wires going to the rear. The last pic is some of the other wiring in the head light area. Sorry it fell down on me...I seem to drop a few pics sometime.

shift knob3.jpg Wiring6.jpg

Wiring7.jpg

 

Next up will picking a seat out & the trim around the hood where it meets the dash box. Then I'll have some completed pics hopefully in some sunshine. Thanks again for viewing & your comments & suggestions are appreciated.

 


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#187 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted January 22, 2015 - 10:37 AM

Looking good, Jim! Thanks for the pictures and update! Please do keep them coming!


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#188 mraaaw OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2015 - 05:04 PM

hello folks,new b here first post ,I have a 149-99a mtd I am rebuilding

I got it almost done,  but need a part to finish,and it is the dash panel,it is one

plactic molded piece that is broken and might need a dash plate I believe

this tractor is a1977 thru 1981  just looking for info where to go and buy one  will send pic on another post

when  I know how lol


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#189 mraaaw OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2015 - 05:32 PM

hey sawdust ,if you want to fix another dash,I  WILL  PAY

not good at that sort of thing if interested email me

Robert albin

mraaaw@gmail.com


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#190 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2015 - 05:38 PM

Looking good! Best to leave any cooling fins bare. Paint just impedes cooling effect.
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#191 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2015 - 07:27 PM

hey sawdust ,if you want to fix another dash,I  WILL  PAY

not good at that sort of thing if interested email me

Robert albin

mraaaw@gmail.com

Welcome to GTtalk glad to have you. These dash boxes took a beating & are very hard to find one that isn't damaged. I really don't have the time to do another one. If you follow my thread on how I did mine you should be able to improve it greatly if it's like most. Getting the grille properly aligned with the metal flat bar going to the dash is important. If the grill is loose or sprung forward it puts a lot of pressure on the upper part of the dash box then causes it to break around the flange area on top. 

 

Can you post some pics of yours. Start yourself another thread of your own & we all can follow your progress & help you better.


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#192 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2015 - 01:10 PM

Got my new seat yesterday, awesome seller on eBay. It's a reproduction of a Cub Cadet seat without any logo's. Very good quality, comfortable & quick ship, paid on Saturday & at my door on Tuesday. When I sat my 208 pound butt on it there was still plenty of room near the fenders. Getting off a seat not mounted was interesting though. :D

 

New Seat.JPG

 

I under stand there were two versions of seat brackets, low profile & the extended version. I'm figuring a piece of flat steel plate with maybe 1/2" thick flat bar stock along each outside edge going from front to rear. I could then drill through to match the seat pattern. The flat bar stock would raise the seat in the middle to clear my bolt heads going into the spring.

 

New seat5.jpg


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#193 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2015 - 01:15 PM

That looks very close to the MTD OEM seat, good job finding a replacement.


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#194 mraaaw OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2015 - 03:37 PM

thanks  saw dust I seen your repair on dash .will try to do the same

and will send pictures throught out thanks again


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#195 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2015 - 01:10 PM

I bought a hard to find extended seat bracket. It bolts right up to the seat I got just like factory. I sanded it, primed & finish coated it last night. It's single digits today too cold to install unless I get really bored. I've had this tractor since last spring & it has never had a seat on it so needless to say I'm excited about sitting in the saddle.

 

Seat bracket1.jpg Seat bracket3.jpg


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