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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#166 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 01:36 PM

Jim, that dash looks GREAT, you did a fantastic job on it. Can I sens you mine now to be repaired ?? :rolling:  The tractor is really going to be a very nice show or work tractor when your done.

 

BTW, I edited out the 2 extra photos you uploaded, they were a second copy of the photos you used in the post but because you didn't upload into the post, they showed at the bottom as attachments.


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#167 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 06:55 PM

Nice job on the dash. The reason the other pics showed below is you uploaded them twice, but only used them once. We can delete the extras if you want.

Thanks Kenny post looks better now  :thumbs:


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#168 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 06:57 PM

Jim, that dash looks GREAT, you did a fantastic job on it. Can I sens you mine now to be repaired ?? :rolling:  The tractor is really going to be a very nice show or work tractor when your done.

 

BTW, I edited out the 2 extra photos you uploaded, they were a second copy of the photos you used in the post but because you didn't upload into the post, they showed at the bottom as attachments.

Thanks Brian looks better now



#169 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 07:25 PM

Thanks everyone this thing took me three days off & on to do. I still have to finish coat not sure between gloss black or semi gloss. I have read folks are trying to re fab these dash boxes I sure wished some one would. I would buy one to put on the shelf for my next one  :D

 

I dry fitted everything...not too bad. I need the hood to come back to the dash about 3/8" more where it meets the dash. I think I might have got a little too heavy on the bondo or didn't tilt the flange enough  :D  I have to admit though the corners of the dash look factory. I might grind off some of the grille mounts where they meet the frame. I have about an inch of space between the grille & the starter/generator pulley. I would also have to egg shape the metal hood strap that goes between the hood & dash or I could cut a small section out then weld it back might be the best thing to do. I might play around with the dash box a little to see if I can pull it forward some. I also thought about drilling new mounting holes on the side of the hood, this would be the easiest thing to do I believe....going to sleep on this a few nights. My wife & daughter have a "Ladies Night Out Craft Show" this Friday night so I have some more stuff to build for that until the weekend  :mad2:

 

Body fit1.jpg


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#170 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2014 - 09:17 PM

Made all my adjustments to get the grille, hood & dash fitted correctly. I chose to cut off about 5/16th's of the grille mounting pads. This allowed me to pull the grille towards the dash to give me the space I needed to allow the hood to meet the dash. The mounting pads were touching the engine before. I also egg shaped the mounting holes on the grille to give me the adjustments I needed.

 

grille5.jpg grille6.jpg grille7.jpg

 

The hood fits nice with the dash. My one concern is I wanted to use a piece of the flexible trim that goes around the edge of the hood where it meets the dash. I have only seen a few that have this but it looks good. Since this fits so good I don't think I'll have room for it now...I'll find out later I guess.

dash29.jpg

 

My NOS hood latches fit nicely.

Body fit1.jpg Body Adj.3.jpg Body Adj.2.jpg Body Adj.1.jpg

 

I also sanded & primed my grille plate that holds the headlights. Next up I'll be cleaning my carb & installing it. If you remember earlier I mentioned loosing my four new rolls of wire I bought back in the summer...still haven't found them. I'm going to look once again because next up will be the wiring. I'm going to replace all the bolts that hold the dash on since the old ones were rusted pretty bad. Thanks for looking.


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#171 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2014 - 10:26 PM

Looking good! Thanks for the pics and update! Here's a link for trim and edging at McMaster-Carr (should you decide to add some to your hood): http://www.mcmaster....molding/=v0hlnf


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#172 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2014 - 10:01 AM

The tolerance for the hood fitment is about +- 1".  I put a tapered shim in front of the mounting bolts to tip the grill back. The pressure pulling on the dash tower contributes to breaking it. A piece of thin felt strip glued across the top gives something to wear against.

 

Hood Edge Trim   McMaster Carr 24175K12 (exact replacement). This is the same trim that was used, as Gabriel posted.

 

Attached is my growing file of parts info. FYI

Attached Files


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#173 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 06:01 PM

Thanks guys for the link to the trim.

 

I repaired the inside area where the choke lever fastens. Because of it being cracked it would have allowed the choke lever to sit crooked. Like the other repairs I reinforced the area with metal & fiberglass.

 

I first made a pattern & used it to cut the piece of metal.

dash repair29.jpg dash repair30.jpg

 

I added two layers of fiberglass rosin & mesh. Once this sets up I'll grind away the FG & remove the screws leaving the metal washers.

dash repair32.jpg

 

 I also made a jig to force the area flat while the fiberglass sets up. I used a board on the top side & drove some screws through the mounting holes so the sides of the dash where the choke lever mounts would be flush with each other.

dash repair33.jpg

 

 


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#174 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 09:41 PM

Jim,

 

Things are looking up for you dash. You are pulling ahead of my progress. Cold weather has slowed things down to a snail's pace. Love the pics. Thanks for sharing.


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#175 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 01:30 PM

Yeah Matt its getting too cold outside for me too. I don't think I'll get to the finish coat of the sheet metal because I would have to paint in my basement.

 

I had a problem with the lower part of my dash box. For some reason it was extremely crooked where it meets the tunnel. I started to leave it but I knew I would be looking down at it & kicking myself for not fixing it.

dash29.jpg dash repair34.jpg

 

I knew from experience plywood wrapped in fiberglass makes a good repair or structurally solid. I made a bracket from a piece of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood. I checked for fit & altered it to not interfere with the steering column. I put a heavy coat of FG then set the bracket then clamped to force the joint to normal. I then covered with mesh then another coat of FG.

dash repair35.jpg dash repair36.jpg

 

Looking down at it now is a whole lot better & once again very satisfied with my efforts. 

dash repair37.jpg

 

The dash plate decal is from 

http://www.clickitan...990-dash-decal/   A little pricey but really looks good. I used the dry method. Make sure you clean & remove any dust particles. I got this decal on & everything looked good but this little worm like thing under the ammeter area. I pulled it back up very carefully & found a small beard hair :wallbanging:  I got it out with tweezers & good to go. The material is pretty forgiving. If you have to lift it up do it slow as not to stretch it.

Before & after

ref26.jpg dash repair38.jpg

 

 

 

 


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#176 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 02:33 PM

Great job, once again.
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#177 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 08:57 PM

Very nice!
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#178 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 07:22 AM

Jim, What are you referring to when you state above that you used the "dry method" for affixing your dash decal?

#179 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 02:53 PM

Jim, What are you referring to when you state above that you used the "dry method" for affixing your dash decal?

Matt its basically the peel & stick method. I peeled back about a few inches of the bottom to reveal the lower mounting holes to line up. I got this area on then slowly peeled the rest of the backing off slowly. I have to admit I was nervous to see $16. wasted in a few seconds. :D  I've never used water to put on vinyl before always the peel & stick method. Did you use water?

http://www.clickitan...n-instructions/


Edited by Sawdust, December 21, 2014 - 02:53 PM.


#180 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2014 - 02:57 PM

I also used the dry method. I'm still trying to picture how the wet method would have worked with the decal I received.
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