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Picked Up A Mtd 990


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#136 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2014 - 09:56 AM

That looks real nice, Sawdust! I like that color also!


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#137 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 02:07 AM

The past few days I have been cleaning the engine & PTO. The engine was actually pretty clean so I just sprayed some concentrated gunk on it & let it sit for awhile. I sand blasted the aluminum head. I'm thinking about not painting that.

Assembly23.jpg Assembly24.jpg assembly25.jpg Assembly20.jpg Assembly21.jpg

 

 

The PTO had a lot of build up like dead grass & old oil.

Assembly16.jpg Assembly15.jpg

 

I got my hydraulics hooked back up along with my new fan. I also installed the drive shaft. I have a few repairs to be made with a couple of the linkages on the PTO like egg shaped holes etc. I will probably take some of these off during the winter & weld them closed & re drill.

Assembly18.jpg Assembly17.jpg

 

I started to clean the old decals off of the engine cover & decided to take it down to bare metal along with the air cleaner. I'm not sure about putting new decals on because a bit pricey right now. I can always do that later.

Assembly26.jpg Assembly19.jpg Assembly22.jpg

 

I made a mistake putting the wrong woodruff key in the output shaft for the brake disc. I installed the small one & realized the larger one that I had left won't work on the engine shaft for the drive shaft yoke :wallbanging:  The larger one on the left is for the brake disc & the smaller one on the right is for the drive shaft yoke.

Assembly14.jpg

 

Next up I'm debating whether or not to remove the black paint off of the carb since it's chipped pretty bad. I would like to leave it bare aluminum. I still need to remove the steering wheel from the shaft. I'm going to let the engine dry for a few days before installing it. I've been excited about getting all the parts back on & seeing all those parts bags empty.  I appreciate any comments & suggestions. Thanks again for looking.


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#138 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 06:25 AM

That's looking real nice!


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#139 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 07:41 AM

When I was putting all the "new" parts back onto the frame, I would stand back and look at each piece. Much of it is covered up, never to be seen again. The satisfaction you feel doing a restore is nice, knowing it will be a working tractor for another 30 years.


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#140 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 09:58 AM

Looking good! Thanks for the pictures and updates, and please keep them coming!


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#141 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 06:46 PM

Wow did it get cold today with rain, I moved like a slug today. I tackled my grille today & this lime green was meant to stay. I tried wire brushing but no go on that. I ended up stripping it twice with wire brushing in between. These are aluminum cast & the surface is kind of rough. I like the way Moosetales turned out. I sent him a PM to see if he sanded his smooth. I may go with a metallic color & I'm concerned if I should leave it rough or sand it smooth. I will probably paint the inside first to see how it turns out on the rough surface.

 

tt10.jpg Grille4.jpg Grille2.jpg Grille3.jpg


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#142 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2014 - 06:59 PM

You could use a high build filler primer and sand that to smooth the cast. That stuff has helped with some pits and is easy to work with. Also the oval holes you were talking about. I repaired some on my truck by welding washers where the original hole should be. Brought it down to the original size and doubled the thickness in that spot. Great work so far! Its gonna be a gem when done.

Eric
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#143 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2014 - 10:05 PM

Jim,

 

You are light years ahead of me. It's getting cold around these parts and I have a ton of painting left that may not get done till Spring. Your project is coming along really nicely. How was Gatlinburg? It's hard to believe I was on my way to Van Buren still last week at this time. BTW, the charcoal color gives a nice contrast to the black. Thanks for posting pics of your project.


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#144 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2014 - 08:03 PM

Made any more progress, Jim?
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#145 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2014 - 08:40 PM

Not a lot, set the engine on the frame. I got to pick up some grade 8 bolts. I did get my steering wheel off. Got my new Kevlar Red pto belts on.

 

I have been trying to get this off for a long time. Even though I pulled the whole steering assembly out I still needed to get the wheel off. This way I can mount the steering assembly without having to put the dash back on because it still needs repaired. I took two pieces of 1 1/4" angle iron longer than the shaft & sandwiched them together with some duct tape. I heated the top end of the shaft slightly after soaking it in PB blaster. I then took an old socket slightly smaller than the shaft end & set it on top of the shaft. I gave it two good sharp whacks with a 3LB sledge hammer & it popped right out. 

Steering wheel1.jpg Steering wheel2.jpg

 

I should be back in a few days with some more progress.  :wave:


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#146 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2014 - 09:00 PM

Thanks for the update and pictures! Glad you got your steering wheel off!

#147 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2014 - 01:53 PM

Not a lot, set the engine on the frame. I got to pick up some grade 8 bolts. I did get my steering wheel off. Got my new Kevlar Red pto belts on.
 
I have been trying to get this off for a long time. Even though I pulled the whole steering assembly out I still needed to get the wheel off. This way I can mount the steering assembly without having to put the dash back on because it still needs repaired. I took two pieces of 1 1/4" angle iron longer than the shaft & sandwiched them together with some duct tape. I heated the top end of the shaft slightly after soaking it in PB blaster. I then took an old socket slightly smaller than the shaft end & set it on top of the shaft. I gave it two good sharp whacks with a 3LB sledge hammer & it popped right out. 
attachicon.gifSteering wheel1.jpgattachicon.gifSteering wheel2.jpg
 
I should be back in a few days with some more progress.  :wave:


Now that's what I call good olé Yankee ingenuity.
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#148 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2014 - 09:34 PM

Thanks everyone I appreciate all the good responses, comments & suggestions. I'm trying to show every little detail as I go hoping it helps to encourage others. I know I spent many hours on here soaking up all the info & expertise from others my self no matter what the badge I like them all especially the rusty ones  :D

 

Yesterday was mostly family day. I wanted so bad to get my coil on so I could put the shroud back on. I want to install my Nova II module next to the regulator so that means I have to add longer wires. This wouldn't be a problem if I could just find my wire. I bought several rolls different colors back in the summer  but I can't find them anywhere :wallbanging: . I did install the coil, my two new Kevlar Red PTO belts, & gas tank brackets. Just a word of caution before you install the drive shaft put the belts on first...it works out better this way  :(   I also ordered a new PTO idler pulley. The old one was in good shape but had just a tiny bit of slop. I figured I might as well replace it now.

 

I used four layers of masking tape to gauge the coil for right now.

Assembly28.jpg

 

I was so happy just sitting the engine back home. My old bolts are worn bad so I'll stop at TSC to get some grade 8 bolts.

Assembly29.jpg Assembly30.jpg

 

We're going to have our first snow storm tonight so tomorrow I'll probably clean up some small parts, prime, paint & drink coffee all day. Thanks for looking!


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#149 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 06:28 AM

Heck, I use a business card for the gaps lol. Never went back and checked it. Still works great! Great work. Its gonna be a beauty when done.

Eric
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#150 VTXrider OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2014 - 07:50 AM

I would not spend the extra money on grade 8 bolts. The frame breaks before any bolts will. They really are not needed anywhere on a small garden tractor unless it is for your own peace of mind. It is like buying "monster wire" for your sound system or $50 gold plated hdmi cable for your video setup. Not needed. The plain Jane grade 5 will work just fine.

I bought the materials for use in a machine building shop for 17 years. Used mostly socket head cap screws. Grade 8 and titanium hex head bolts were used only in demanding applications. 

 

I have to smile about the PTO belts, I did the same thing.


Edited by VTXrider, November 17, 2014 - 10:12 AM.

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