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Building 3Ph For Bolens Lf But Hit A Snag

ht23 bolens 3ph 3 point hitch

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#1 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 10:48 PM

Ever since we got our big storms in December I wanted to get a 3ph built for my Bolens HT23. I have a large heavy scaper that was mounted on the recently departed JD420.  I'd scrape out driveways with the JD, then scoop up the snow and put it on the parking strip with the Bolens.  Since the JD is gone, I needed to mount the scraper on the Bolens, but it doesn't have a 3 point hitch.

 

I tried mounting the 3ph form my 1886, but the fixed vertical lift links hit the frame.

 

So, I got the drawings for the 18086 hitch and started building it in January.  It's been a typical project--long periods where you can't work on it, interspersed by a day here and there of frantic activity.

 

The major problem right now, which has me totally stumped, is how to connect the tractor end of the lift arms. The Brantly FEL uses the lower, larger pin holes as an anchor for the back of the loader frame.

 

IMG_20140215_124520_542.jpg

 

There's still enough room on the side for the thin, Bolens-specific mount used on the tiller.  The problem came up when I built a set of CAT 0 lift arms using weld-on ball sockets I got from Belarus.com. 

 

With the rear of the loader frame forked over the lower pin, there's not enough clearance to pin the ball socket in the upper hole. 

IMG_20140217_182444_498.jpg

IMG_20140217_182429_866.jpg

 

I went back to the drawing board and found some 5/8" Heim joints female threads online.  I screwed a 5/8" NF Gr 8 bolt into them and cut the head off. I then cut the ball socket off one end of each lift arm and notched it so the Heim Joint would fit.

 

IMG_20140217_182241_771.jpg

 

The body of the Heim joint is smaller in diameter so it allows the lift arm to be pinned in. HOWEVER, now the problem is the loader frame on the lower pin won't let the arms drop below about 8" above groiund.  PLUS, the lift arm tends to catch against the loader frame when it swings from side to side--I'm afraid it will break off one of the tabs on the axle.

 

I tried notching the lower part of the lift arms but it didn't do any good--if I take more off I'm afraid I'll weaken the arm too much and it will break.

 

 

 

So, the options I see at this point are:

 

1. Mount the lift arms to the inside of the tabs like the 18010 hitch on the 1886.  This will put the lift arms in line with the frame and will limit their upward travel. A fairly sharp dogleg in the lift arm to clear the frame may work, but I'm not sure.

 

2. Build a bracket that is pinned through both upper and lower holes on each side of the axle, and extends slightly to the rear.  Put holes in the bracket that are parallel to the axle and mount a shortened lift arm there.

 

3. Cut off the end of the loader frame and weld a dog leg onto each end that will engage a longer pin or bolt and nut on the outside of the lower hole.

 

Or, perhaps,

 

4. Run in circles crying uncontrollably (don't think this will solve anything, but I'm tempted nonetheless).

 

It seems I'm always asking for help, but once again, I seek your suggestions and/or potential consequences to any of the above options.

 

Regards,

 

Smitty

 


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#2 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 11:26 PM

How about welding the Heim joints to the bottom edge of the lift arms, and still put

them in between the tabs.


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#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 01:26 AM

How about welding the Heim joints to the bottom edge of the lift arms, and still put
them in between the tabs.

:ditto: and can you round the loader frame piece's top corners so it doesn't interfere as quickly?

If that doesn't work, I would go with the extension and shorter arms I guess.
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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 06:27 AM

I vote for No 3. That way you are keeping all the mounts in their intended holes. Perhaps a U shaped addition to the loader frame that would pin through both sides of the bracket. Whenever I am working on a JD tractor I always find strangely shaped brackets and odd shaped levers and rods. I eventually figured out that the reason for these things is that a multitude of attachments have to be fit in, some at the same time, and it's a real 3D puzzle to fit it all in. You are dealing with the same issue on your HT. I'm sure you'll figure out a solution that works for you.


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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 06:49 AM

I like Brian's answer above, especially the u-shaped end for the loader frames. That sounds the most feasible for you.



#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 07:50 AM

I vote for No 3. That way you are keeping all the mounts in their intended holes. Perhaps a U shaped addition to the loader frame that would pin through both sides of the bracket. Whenever I am working on a JD tractor I always find strangely shaped brackets and odd shaped levers and rods. I eventually figured out that the reason for these things is that a multitude of attachments have to be fit in, some at the same time, and it's a real 3D puzzle to fit it all in. You are dealing with the same issue on your HT. I'm sure you'll figure out a solution that works for you.

 

Other than the cutting up of the  Brantly FEL mounting arms, this is probably the best way to go.

I suppose you could keep the cut off parts, and rebuild to OE if you ever wanted to.



#7 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 08:58 AM

Might be a little late unless you want to start over, but I posted a complete set of plans that I got from a friend who designed and built 3 point hitches for his large frame. They are here somewhere but I'm not sure where. (Sorry) if you search they are here tho.

#8 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 10:49 AM

Found it but it's the early style large frame 3 point.
http://gardentractor...post__p__313129
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#9 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 11:53 AM

Found it but it's the early style large frame 3 point.
http://gardentractor...post__p__313129

Thanks, Ken.  I used a set of drawings I got from this forum along with some pictures posted by others who had built the hitch with variations on the blocks for the rock shaft. 

 

The problem isn't the drawings, it's that my particular tractor has a front end loader with braces running to the rear with forked ends that slide into the lower pin holes. Even though the hitch uses the upper pin holes, the brace interferes with the movement of the lower hitch arms... 

 

I think I may just modify the loader bracket, although that may require me to remove the loader (not an easy task from the looks of things).

 

Regards,

 

Smitty


Edited by Utah Smitty, February 18, 2014 - 11:53 AM.


#10 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 11:58 AM

I vote for No 3. That way you are keeping all the mounts in their intended holes. Perhaps a U shaped addition to the loader frame that would pin through both sides of the bracket. Whenever I am working on a JD tractor I always find strangely shaped brackets and odd shaped levers and rods. I eventually figured out that the reason for these things is that a multitude of attachments have to be fit in, some at the same time, and it's a real 3D puzzle to fit it all in. You are dealing with the same issue on your HT. I'm sure you'll figure out a solution that works for you.

 

 

I like Brian's answer above, especially the u-shaped end for the loader frames. That sounds the most feasible for you.

 

 

Other than the cutting up of the  Brantly FEL mounting arms, this is probably the best way to go.

I suppose you could keep the cut off parts, and rebuild to OE if you ever wanted to.

 

Thanks, guys.  I think this is the best solution, as it will free up the pin holes for their intended function.  I hope I don't have to remove the loader to do it, though.

 

I'll hang on to the ends of the arms, and probably get a piece of 1/4" bar bent up.  Put some slots in the uprights of the "U", then cut off the end of the loader brace and weld a "U" on each one.  My welding skills are improving, as shown by some of the other components I've had to cut apart and re-weld.  Now just need to work on the aesthetics.

 

Thanks again,

 

Smitty


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#11 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 01:22 PM

Smitty, on my kubota, the bottom arms slip over some cat 1 pins as if it was an attachment.  

3%2520PH%2520012-M.jpg

 

That maybe an option, plus it would allow for quicker removal of the arms (if needed) plus you would have little to modify for your loader frame.

Lets meet up and look it over.  I have some cat 0 pins as well, I think, well if I can find them in my garage :rolling:


Edited by Pager450n, February 18, 2014 - 01:43 PM.

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#12 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 02:01 PM

Smitty, on my kubota, the bottom arms slip over some cat 1 pins as if it was an attachment.  

3%2520PH%2520012-M.jpg

 

That maybe an option, plus it would allow for quicker removal of the arms (if needed) plus you would have little to modify for your loader frame.

Lets meet up and look it over.  I have some cat 0 pins as well, I think, well if I can find them in my garage :rolling:

That's another option I was looking at, though it would require shortening the lift arms...

 

I have some Cat 0 and Cat 1 pins-we have a Cal Ranch Store in Layton and they have that stuff there, plus ball socket ends for Cat 1 and larger.  The cheapest place for ball socket ends and hitch parts I've found is Belarus Ag Supply http://www.belarusag...Hitch_c_18.html

 

Don't know if they're part of the Belarus tractor brand or not.

 

Smitty.


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