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#16 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 03:53 PM

The majority of my parts come from the small engine shop in our closest town.  I have actually found that they are usually a dollar or two cheaper then the on-line prices and there is no shipping.  The added benefit is that I just have to call them up and if they don't have it in stock they order it for me and I just pay when I pick the item(s) up.  Most all the parts I get from them are OEM parts.  Another added benefit, as Tom said, is it is another source of advice and also what the local market is doing.

I have much more of a relationship on that with car parts than small engine stuff.  I priced that coil at the local farm and Fleet but the owner of the only other 2 small engine repair places in the county  still left, knows only how to do 1 thing; and that is to GOUGE for every penny he can and then some He wasn't priced so bad when he only had 1 location!


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#17 Guest_Fluid_*

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 08:53 PM

Globalization boys, get used to it. I grew up in Michigan and the rest of the country bought imports. I watched my home state go to Heck in a handbag because everyone said U.S. car companies made junk, the U.S. worker was lazy. Consumer Reports and the like said the Japanese cars are better, the German cars are better, now its the Koreans and the Chinese that are better then the U.S. Anything that was made somewhere else was way better. Moms & Dads bought their kids first car, Honda Accord, Toyota Camry to name a few. Anything but American because the mass media said so. Americans have become followers. Do You know why everything is made in China or Asia now a days? That is the next big market for all the big companies in the world, And China said if you want to play here in China, you have to make your stuff here. The U.S. will be small potatoes in 5 to 10 years, so why do they give a Hoot what we (U.S.) think. How many of you guys drive imports? And don't give me that "It's not my fault I can't find what I like that is made in the U.S." or "They make them here now, so that's Ok".
When I was a kid we had a saying "I would rather push a Ford then drive a Chevy" Now it is old fashion to drive an American car or truck. It will only get worse. We made this mess by not buying American products for the last 30 to 35 years.

Edited by MH81, February 17, 2014 - 11:38 PM.
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#18 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 09:01 PM

Ok guys, this is getting a little heated, this is a open fourm for every one to read, keep it clean.


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#19 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2014 - 09:57 PM

Ok guys, this is getting a little heated, this is a open fourm for every one to read, keep it clean.

hey it's all good so far  

I, too, am tired of Toyota this or Honduh that...

maybe  I am old fashioned but I wouldn't buy one, I'd consider driving something like that if it was free and I was paid to, besides.

Ford vs Chevy vs Mopar wasn't enough...

funny you bring up consumer reports.... why is it, that my experiences seems to go contrary to their recommendations... them guys and the movie critics must be in cahoots.  the movies they rave about, are usually the ones I think are no good...

yeah this is going in a different direction than I thought it would  but so far so good....  

 

how much exp do you guys out there have with the aftermarket kits for these engines that include rod, piston, gaskets, valves and everything else besides a kitchen sink, for less than an OE piston and rod (at least if you using Kohler as your OE comparison as my last couple rebuilds have been)

 

has there been enough grass cutting, rototillin, snow plowin hours put on an engine that has these parts, to really compare? Or is this one of those, "its OK fo a show pony that gets driven off th trailer, displayed, back on the trailer then into the shed, kind of machines, but no good for a tractor that is used weekly (or more) to mow 3 acres of tall weeds and drive a PTO  powered tiller or snowblower, like they were meant to do?   Or are these the parts you use, when you want to fix something "cheap" to "flip" to make a buck, and let the next guy worry about problems?

My particular case that prompted me to start this thread, had to do with a coil... are internal parts from these aftermarket companies (more dependable, less dependable) than OEM  part, considering  all else being the same (machining or lack of, cleanliness of parts upon assembly, torqueing to spec or lack of)  besides where the parts came from? 

Are electrical parts a better or worse buy from aftermarket vs OE?   Certain aftermarket brands better than others?

 

Or are internal parts OK but electrical parts not so OK (or vise versa) 
At this point I'm likely to worry less about aftermarket gaskets, filters, carb kits etc  being much different/"worse" than OE, than internal parts....  a swelled carb diaphragm is less a "big deal" than a sloppy fitting rod or rings that wear out by the 2nd oil change or valves that "neck" or snap off, if you know what I mean


Edited by dodge trucker, February 17, 2014 - 09:59 PM.

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#20 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 12:06 AM

Just wanted to pipe up here and say that while the topics covered here are near and dear to many of our hearts and most probably agree with sentiment, the thread has bordered on political a couple of times and its easy to get passionate enough to be forceful in our language.

The original questions raised are going to vary from answer to answer, experience to experience. The Country of Origin not withstanding, do the aftermarket parts do the same job for less or is there enough of a quality difference to make it a better deal to buy OEM?

I work with appliance parts often. We were looking up a light socket for a Frigidaire refrigerator. The lamp was the next line item and I noticed that they wanted $21 for a standard 40w appliance lamp. Do I think it's 7 times better than the one I have on the shelf from another brand that is $3? No I dont. Is my $3 bulb better than the $2.50 at Wally World? Assuming it handles heat and cold the same, no, I don't.

Car parts, (especiallyBrake Parts) I am tending to shy away from the cheaper ones due to shortened lifespan or lower quality. If the Made in USA ones are in the list, I consider strongly.

Major components or units... If its close I really think about where it came from and who will fix it. Sometimes I can afford the upgrade or different unit, sometimes not.
Case and point, a GE appliance, customer bought it from Home Depot. HD has no service center and rely on A&E to repair the product line. We are a self servicing service center and on some product lines can only warranty service what we sell, so we can't always "In Warranty" repair. Locally, A&E comes from Cleveland and that means a 2 week delay at minimum for the diagnostic trip and more delay to order the part and return. They paid to have service done versus going without a washer for weeks. The customer regrets not buying from a local place and admitted the original purchase price difference between us and HD on similar product was only $27... His repair bill was higher.

I am just saying that sometimes higher prices don't equal better product and sometimes it does, but politics should be kept in check here.

As for the In Law bashing, have a ball... I have some to do too. Just don't tell my wife. :D
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Posted February 18, 2014 - 12:20 AM

Just wanted to pipe up here and say that while the topics covered here are near and dear to many of our hearts and most probably agree with sentiment, the thread has bordered on political a couple of times and its easy to get passionate enough to be forceful in our language.

The original questions raised are going to vary from answer to answer, experience to experience. The Country of Origin not withstanding, do the aftermarket parts do the same job for less or is there enough of a quality difference to make it a better deal to buy OEM?

I work with appliance parts often. We were looking up a light socket for a Frigidaire refrigerator. The lamp was the next line item and I noticed that they wanted $21 for a standard 40w appliance lamp. Do I think it's 7 times better than the one I have on the shelf from another brand that is $3? No I dont. Is my $3 bulb better than the $2.50 at Wally World? Assuming it handles heat and cold the same, no, I don't.

Car parts, (especiallyBrake Parts) I am tending to shy away from the cheaper ones due to shortened lifespan or lower quality. If the Made in USA ones are in the list, I consider strongly.

Major components or units... If its close I really think about where it came from and who will fix it. Sometimes I can afford the upgrade or different unit, sometimes not.
Case and point, a GE appliance, customer bought it from Home Depot. HD has no service center and rely on A&E to repair the product line. We are a self servicing service center and on some product lines can only warranty service what we sell, so we can't always "In Warranty" repair. Locally, A&E comes from Cleveland and that means a 2 week delay at minimum for the diagnostic trip and more delay to order the part and return. They paid to have service done versus going without a washer for weeks. The customer regrets not buying from a local place and admitted the original purchase price difference between us and HD on similar product was only $27... His repair bill was higher.

I am just saying that sometimes high prices don't equal better and sometimes it does, but politics should be kept in check here.

As for the In Law bashing, have a ball... I have some to do too Just don't tell my wife. :D

This is the outcome of the afforementioned problem.....


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#22 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 06:40 AM

I often chose oem if prices are close , who wouldn't , but if the job is a pita I would rather spend more hoping to fix it once unless someone recomended the aftermarket as good as oem .


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#23 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 10:32 AM

We have looked at this problem from many angles here. In another thread we talked about the cheap rebuilding kits. I've got a K301 apart that needs rebuilding. I've honed the cylinder to 0.004" over. I'll grind the seats, polish the crank and clean it today or tomorrow. I'll mic up everything. Somebody needs to take point, so I quess its my turn. I'll order the cheap kit, carefully inspect it, and assemble the engine. I'll put an hour meter on the LGT125 and give her a  good work out. I'll report back with a sitrep at various points. Mine won't be a full test because I normally baby engines but it should give us an idea if the stuff is junk. As my favorite sage(Red Green) says "we are all in this together". Good Luck, Rick

 

As a side note, we should all be looking at doing a better job at cannibalizing off machines to be scrapped.


Edited by boyscout862, February 18, 2014 - 10:34 AM.

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#24 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 11:59 AM

I have to agree with Alan, It all just depends on what part you are talking about and the aftermarket item.  Case in point the starter clutch went out on my Harley just after it went out of warranty (go figure!)  I put a new (OEM) on in and it didn't last so I replaced the starter with an aftermarket one and that one didn't make it 6 month.  All the Harley guys were recommending the All-Balls brand and low and behold I haven't had a problem with it and it has been in there for a year. 

 

As far as where they were made,  so many times I have gotten OEM parts only to see they were made in another country. B&S is one of those,  I'm sitting here looking at a B&S OEM parts box which says "Made in China" so the question is do you pay $70 or $80 for the Chinese made part that just happens to have the B&S logo on it or get the other Chinese made part for $20 or $30?  The only thing I think you are guaranteed is that the OEM part will bolt right up.

 

Also catching up with this thread I can see some replies getting a bit heated and hedging toward becoming political.  Even though some of us may share your  feelings on these issues we all still have to follow the rules of the forum.  So let's keep it cool.


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#25 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 07:31 PM

Just wanted to pipe up here and say that while the topics covered here are near and dear to many of our hearts and most probably agree with sentiment, the thread has bordered on political a couple of times and its easy to get passionate enough to be forceful in our language.

The original questions raised are going to vary from answer to answer, experience to experience. The Country of Origin not withstanding, do the aftermarket parts do the same job for less or is there enough of a quality difference to make it a better deal to buy OEM?

I work with appliance parts often. We were looking up a light socket for a Frigidaire refrigerator. The lamp was the next line item and I noticed that they wanted $21 for a standard 40w appliance lamp. Do I think it's 7 times better than the one I have on the shelf from another brand that is $3? No I dont. Is my $3 bulb better than the $2.50 at Wally World? Assuming it handles heat and cold the same, no, I don't.

Car parts, (especiallyBrake Parts) I am tending to shy away from the cheaper ones due to shortened lifespan or lower quality. If the Made in USA ones are in the list, I consider strongly.

Major components or units... If its close I really think about where it came from and who will fix it. Sometimes I can afford the upgrade or different unit, sometimes not.
Case and point, a GE appliance, customer bought it from Home Depot. HD has no service center and rely on A&E to repair the product line. We are a self servicing service center and on some product lines can only warranty service what we sell, so we can't always "In Warranty" repair. Locally, A&E comes from Cleveland and that means a 2 week delay at minimum for the diagnostic trip and more delay to order the part and return. They paid to have service done versus going without a washer for weeks. The customer regrets not buying from a local place and admitted the original purchase price difference between us and HD on similar product was only $27... His repair bill was higher.

I am just saying that sometimes higher prices don't equal better product and sometimes it does, but politics should be kept in check here.

As for the In Law bashing, have a ball... I have some to do too. Just don't tell my wife. :D

yeah when it comes to appliances I have a local mom and pop place I deal with.... like when I had to buy a washer a few months back, Sears and Menards don't even carry Speed Queen....

but on this coil deal fo the snow blower even if I wanted OEM Briggs or Toro I cant justify another $30 for the local guy... (and I don't hafta pay tax on stuff I buy from outta state-- yet anyway so that's a little more off the local price.


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#26 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2014 - 07:44 PM

As a side note, we should all be looking at doing a better job at cannibalizing off machines to be scrapped.

 

yeah I do more than my share there too 

I have not worked on or owned a machine yet, that I can say I wish I had a Honduh or harbor Freight engine on, as opposed to a 20-30-or-more yo  Kohler or Tecumseh or Briggs

 

I have had a few experiences with honduh... the one I had on my 1st TB Horse (installed buy the guy I got it from) makes OEM Kohler parts downright cheap.  it was a late 70s G80.... Yeah it was easy to start but  I got tired of replacing bowls on the shutoff/filter... what ever plastic they were made from every other time I used it, I had to replace the bowl as it would shrink within the nut enough to leak from the chemicals in gas (and that was when has was better than what we can buy today, still) ... $13 each time.,   If I shut the gas off and took the fuel bowl off and wiped it dry every time I used the thing it would last a little longer.     A new petcock/filter, an air filter, an extra bowl and a needle and seat fo the carb addd up to $130 and I had to go almost 40 miles to the nearest honduh dealer to get the  stuff... 2 round trips, 1 to pay and order and another when they called to say it was in to pick it up... 160 miles and $130 fo a pittance of maintenance parts... the last time that bowl started leaking I put an HH 60 on that tiller and put the Honduh motor on the table to sell at a garage sale.  good riddance, Honduh

I replacd that sediment bowl at last a half a dozen times.

 

when I worked for the fertilizer plant they went to all honduh's on the tender truck pumps.  they were certainly more troublesome than the Briggs' that they replaced.  

Nothing "political" about that. Just real world, in the field experience


Edited by dodge trucker, February 18, 2014 - 10:13 PM.

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#27 TomLGT195 ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2014 - 04:00 PM

well dodge, have you asked the local guy to match the internet price? my small engine dealer gets pretty close and almost always gets the sale just for that reason.  but when my newer lawn mower needs repair ( cuz the owner ran over a chunk of steel) it gets quick VIP service. Just another reason for me to go local.  Tom


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#28 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2014 - 06:28 PM

This is the outcome of the afforementioned problem.....

well, that $23 Ebay coil showed up in the mail today   No branding at all, no part number just a plain white box with "MADE IN CHINA" rubber stamped on that white box.  just great.   not even enough pride in the workmanship to put the brand name on the box.... the last rebuild kit I got that was so marked I put right back into the mail and returned to sender.....



#29 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2014 - 10:20 PM

We have looked at this problem from many angles here. In another thread we talked about the cheap rebuilding kits. I've got a K301 apart that needs rebuilding. I've honed the cylinder to 0.004" over. I'll grind the seats, polish the crank and clean it today or tomorrow. I'll mic up everything. Somebody needs to take point, so I quess its my turn. I'll order the cheap kit, carefully inspect it, and assemble the engine. I'll put an hour meter on the LGT125 and give her a  good work out. I'll report back with a sitrep at various points. Mine won't be a full test because I normally baby engines but it should give us an idea if the stuff is junk. As my favorite sage(Red Green) says "we are all in this together". Good Luck, Rick

 

As a side note, we should all be looking at doing a better job at cannibalizing off machines to be scrapped.

.004?  never heard of o/s parts available in that increment.... are you using parts meant fo a Kohler or is this some custom build using a Briggs or clinton (or some other brand) piston in a kohler block?


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#30 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2014 - 05:50 AM

I'm going to try to go with standard size. The manual says the limit is 0.005" for standard size. In the late 60s and early 70s, my brother and I were living at home and building Chevy street racing cars. My 64 Chevelle, his 57 2dr, other brothers' 69 Chevelle SS396. I prefer to put engines together a little loose because I've had no failures that way. My brother prefered at the tight edge of specs and had problems from it.

Unfortunately, I put a big effort into getting snow off my roof because of the rain coming so I am behind schedule. I'll fill out the Kohler inspection form after I've cleanned it and then will order the parts. I still may hone it the rest of the way to +0.010" depending on the full inspection. The basic kit is $80 but I want new bearings and a few other things. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, February 21, 2014 - 05:54 AM.





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