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#31 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2011 - 10:40 AM

Daniel I was wondering if you could update us on how the EZ-Slide worked on your deck. I would be interested in trying this if it worked for you.
I also have one of those Kubota snow blowers. I've thought it might be easier to use an electric winch on the front to lift it rather than plumb in the hydraulics.
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#32 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2011 - 12:08 PM

I haven't taken any pics of the underside since, but I just jacked it up in the front to clean & there was still a coating on 75% of the deck. Stuff still sticks, but not near as hard to clean off.
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#33 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2011 - 04:46 PM

OK thanks for the report. This year it seems that every time I mow the grass is damp and these decks tend to deteriorate (rust out) pretty rapidly. Who ever designed the stamping dies for these decks did a poor job. Some areas are thick and some very thin. Other than that no complaints.

#34 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 11:04 AM

Got the deck wire brushed, then washed with soapy water to remove residue. In this heat, it only took 5 minutes to dry completely. Then I coated with the "EZ Slide". Couldn't believe I could not find a paint brush, but had one of those foam brushes, so had to make do with it. This stuff goes on thick & starts drying almost immediately, especially the last part of the can if not kept mixed well prior uses. So it went on a bit smeary, but will be fine anyway. After it cures several hours, you burnish it to smooth & slick it further. I'll likely just use a broom. On the truck beds I use a short piece of pine 2x4. I get EZ-Slide at TSC. I will try to keep up with pics of the underside to see how it holds up this time.





Daniel I was wondering if you could update us on how the EZ-Slide worked on your deck. I would be interested in trying this if it worked for you.
I also have one of those Kubota snow blowers. I've thought it might be easier to use an electric winch on the front to lift it rather than plumb in the hydraulics.


I will soon be able to do a good check on the EZ-Slide coating, as my deck belt is in need of replacing. I was mowing heavy grass today & could smell it slipping. When I checked it, chunks are missing all over the inside of the V. Gotta run to town this afternoon, so I'll stop & get a new 5/8 x 90" belt & put it on in the next day or 2. I was cleaning the underside of the deck of buildup when I seen the chunked out belt. I also could still make out a lot of the coating, but I have to remove the deck for the belt replacement, so I'll give it a good cleaning, then take pics of how well the coating did or didn't hold up. This will make 2 mowing seasons on the coating.

Here is the deck the day of application:

Attached Thumbnails

  • Kubota Deck.jpg


#35 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 12:43 PM

Not left for town yet, as I took the deck off & well....got into working on it. I'll tell you one thing for darned tooting sure......to redo the deck underside, ya have to have a air chisel! I "thought" my welding chipping hammer was doing a good job getting rust chips off, and looked that way. Then I remembered the air chisel Meangreen gave me a few years ago & never had used. Due to having one many years ago, and the recoil spring breaking the 1st time we went to use it, that just left a bad taste in my mouth for them. I'm sure glad I gave them another try, as they are the bomb for rust removal. Where it looked like I got it all....went back over with the air chisel & man was I wrong! You don't need full pressure, so I set my regulator on 85 to 90psi and went to work. I'll take pics later of the results. Having "thought" 2 years ago I got the rust layers off, today I found rust layers still below the "EZ-Slide" coating, so the job was half done. When I get my new V-belt, I will also get an aerosol can of "rust converter". After I finish with the air chisel, I'll wire brush any remaining loose crud, then spray the converter on. After that cures, I'm going to lay a heavy coat of paint. After the paint cures, I "might" recoat with EZ-Slide if I have enough already around. I believe a good coat of paint is best, as in all the high impact areas, all the coating was gone. The coating remained in most non impact areas though, but so would a good coat of paint. I think the only thing that really works is to take the deck off once a year & give it a thorough going over.
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#36 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 01:35 PM

I think the only thing that really works is to take the deck off once a year & give it a thorough going over.


I have given up on miracle treatments. In the fall I remove the deck, wire brush it, prime and paint. In the spring I wax it before I put it on the tractor.

#37 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 07:58 PM

The trip to town wore me out with all the traffic & throngs of people, not to mention humidity. Came home & just started yacking with you guys. Much more fun when one is tired, than bending over a lawn mower deck. :smilewink:

#38 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2012 - 09:36 PM

I wouldn't be out there in that humidity either. My projects really came to a halt the last couple weeks because of that. Hope your weather cools off for you.

#39 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2012 - 10:34 AM

Turns out Dad had bought a can of Rust Converter for spots inside the silage wagon. So after milking this morning, I finished air chiseling the rust layers off, vacuumed the crud, wire brushed, then vacuumed again to get all the loose stuff. Not yet wire brushed in pics below.

DSC06166.JPG DSC06167.JPG

Then I coated with the rust converter. I'll let it cure the specified 24hrs at least before shooting over it with a thick coat of paint. I will use 1/2 the normal rate of hardener so the paint won't be as prone to chipping, but will still cure out quicker.

DSC06169.JPG DSC06168.JPG

#40 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2012 - 04:24 PM

Finally have the time, and felt like it, so got some paint shot on the underside of the deck. I just used some "IH White" that I had on the shelf. Figure a light color will easier show any rust that comes around. I used 1/2 rate of hardener so the paint won't chip as easily, but still have some measure of hardness. I have a fan blowing on it to speed curing as the humidity is over the moon right now. Need to sharpen the blades & install the new belt, then she'll be back in business. I really need to give this deck 3 or 4 days cure time minimum.

DSC06172.JPG

#41 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 02:22 PM

That looks great, Daniel! Should give many more years of service. Yes, spots will show back up, but will be easier to fix.

#42 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 02:30 PM

Still not put the deck back under the tractor. I got the new belt slipped under & onto the gearbox, and checked the gearbox oil. Still up to the fill line & oil looks like new still. I mowed ther yard with my Massey 1010 while this one is out of service. I'll get the deck back under the Kubota this weekend sometime.

#43 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 02:57 PM

Wow Daniel,that turned out nice.

#44 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 04:16 PM

Wow Daniel,that turned out nice.

It sure did. I'd like to do that to mine but the soil here would have it sand blasted off in no time. I have to mow along the hi-way and gravel drive way. That sand would undo the work in no time.

#45 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2012 - 05:48 PM

What I did will likely not last a season, but it will extend it's life if done once a year. I wish they would mold a thick industrial grade tough plastic liner about 1/8" thick to the undersides of these mower decks. It could be done, but they would never do it.




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