I'm ready to start on my next project and I wanted to get this one all posted before I move on to it.
I want to THANK YOU to all of you for the nice comments and questions and I'm glad you enjoyed the project.
I have enjoyed sharing it with you and I've enjoyed reading all your responses.
Again ... "THANK YOU".
Here are the links to the previous post.
With the loader no longer on the tractor, this small cylinder for the 3-point hitch is the only hydraulics left.
The original hydraulic pump had a 3/4" shaft and a wide two bolt mounting flange.
With just that small cylinder on the 3-point, I no longer need that large hydraulic pump.
I have this small pump that has only a 1/2" shaft and a mounting flange with four bolts.
So I made an adapter plate that bolts on where the old pump went and the new pump will bolt to it.
Then I made an adapter for the drive coupling to reduce it down to the 1/2" diameter pump shaft.
Here is the new pump bolted to the adapter plate.
And how the whole thing looks mounted on the tractor.
I've got a small hydraulic valve that I'm going to use for the 3-point hydraulic control.
I made up a angle bracket that mounts to the side of the fender to hold the valve and a bracket that bolts on top of the valve to hold the handle.
Here is the handle and the bracket to hold it.
The valve mounting bracket is mounted to the fender.
Another plate is welded to the inside of the fender to support the valve mounting bracket.
The fender and valve are mounted on the tractor and the hydraulic pressure and return lines are run.
The lines are also run for the pump, cooler and filter.
All the lines run down under the engine and are fastened up between the frame rails.
When I had the FEL on, the hydraulic valve had a float position built into it.
This new hydraulic valve does not have a float position so I need to make something in the lift linkage to allow the implements to float.
Originally the stroke on the cylinder limited the movement of the upper lift arm.
If I make the linkage so it can float, then I need to make a stop on the upper lift arm so it can't over travel and damage the hydraulic fluid tank.
I welded a triangular shaped piece of steel onto the crossbar of the upper lift arm.
The flat end of this piece will rotate up against the face of the 3-point mounting plate and stop the arm from moving farther.
Here it is rotated up into the stop position.
Then I machined a slot in two pieces of steel strap and welded them to the mounting bracket on the cylinder.
This still allows me to use the original pin hole on the cylinder so I can still have pressure up and pressure down.
Or I can put the pin thru the slot and it will allow the implement to float.
Here's how it looks with the pin thru the slot.
This way the outer ends of the lower arms can move a distance of 7 inches with out effecting the cylinder.
If I raise the cylinder so the pin is in the center of the slot when the implement is sitting on the ground, then the lower lift arms would be able to float up or down 3-1/2 inches.
This would allow about three times that amount of travel back on the implement itself.
The hydraulic hoses are mounted on the hydraulic valve. ...
and on the cylinder.
Edited by jdcrawler, January 06, 2011 - 08:05 AM.