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Case 444 Lifts In Rear, But Not In Front, Ideas?


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#16 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2014 - 02:58 PM

Pete,

 

Take a look at these diagrams for a J-54 Utility Blade. The following diagrams are associated with the following P.I.N.:

 

PIN .jpg

 

plow j-54.jpg

 

plow j-54 (2).jpg

 

mounting pic.jpg

 

adapter plate.jpg

 

It appears that the plates on our 444s are slightly different than in the diagram above. Notice we have 3 holes on top whereas the diagram only shows 2.

 

post-4216-0-37217600-1391898089_thumb.jpg

 

The hole you have your blade lift arm attached to is the same hole I have the lift bracket attached to for the rear sleeve hitch.

 

j-54 mounted.jpg

 

When looking at the following pics, remember that my snow caster lift arm attaches to the top pin (just out of sight at the top of the pics below).

 

(Bracket with the snow caster in the raised position)

 

raised position.jpg

 

(Bracket with the snow caster in the lowered position)

 

lowered position.jpg

 

 


Edited by Moosetales, February 10, 2014 - 03:29 PM.


#17 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2014 - 04:25 PM

Forget my last post just remembered you had to get rear support bracket so you put pin in to hook it up. You said cylinder moving in and out but nothing moving I don't believe your cross shaft would shear the weld on lift plate. So pin might have come out or possibly sheared bolts off the cylinder bracket on back of cylinder. I think yours is bolted and not welded to frame. I'll  for video see if we can see what is going on.   



#18 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2014 - 06:24 PM

Pete,

 

Here's a link to a video clip of my mid-mount cylinder in use:

 

 


Edited by Moosetales, February 12, 2014 - 05:22 PM.

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#19 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2014 - 04:26 PM

Wow, thank you for all the information guys! I am waiting for the videos to upload now...

 

Here's a photo though and what I think is the problem.

 

In the attached photo, see that triangular wedge below the pipe & above the frame? That wedge moves & blocks the cylinder from going in all the way.

 

When I was making the video, I noticed that. I also just found out that I have another leak on the rear cylinder.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_1362.JPG


#20 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2014 - 04:33 PM

Videos below

 

 



#21 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2014 - 05:16 PM

Pete,

 

I think the problem has to do with your height adjustment rod (see pic below):

 

height ajdustment rod.jpg

 

The adjustment rod exits the dash plate on the left side of the steering wheel. On the face of the dash there should be a decal similar to below:

 

travel adjustment.jpg

 

The height adjustment rod terminates down under the tractor. There's a plate that's connected to the bracket that's connected to the mid mount hydraulic cylinder. The rod allows you to limit or expand the distance that the cylinder arm can travel, thus limiting or expanding the travel distance of your attachment.

 

Crank that travel rod up or down to adjust the amount of lift you get on your plow.

 

Here's to hoping I didn't just confuse the heck out of you or worse yet get it totally wrong.


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#22 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2014 - 07:06 PM

Pete,

 

I think the problem has to do with your height adjustment rod (see pic below):

 

attachicon.gifheight ajdustment rod.jpg

 

The adjustment rod exits the dash plate on the left side of the steering wheel. On the face of the dash there should be a decal similar to below:

 

attachicon.giftravel adjustment.jpg

 

The height adjustment rod terminates down under the tractor. There's a plate that's connected to the bracket that's connected to the mid mount hydraulic cylinder. The rod allows you to limit or expand the distance that the cylinder arm can travel, thus limiting or expanding the travel distance of your attachment.

 

Crank that travel rod up or down to adjust the amount of lift you get on your plow.

 

Here's to hoping I didn't just confuse the heck out of you or worse yet get it totally wrong.

Looks like you solved that one for him  didn't even know they had that control.



#23 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2014 - 07:46 PM

I didn't know that either....got it! The attachment knob I never noticed before was screwed all the way down.

Turned it out half way and noticed some lift....more it went up, more the plow lifted.

The plow lifts slowly, but it holds & Im happy with it. Tomorrows snow storm will test it out.

I learned something new today. Thank you both for your help.

#24 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2014 - 08:07 PM

I didn't know that either....got it! The attachment knob I never noticed before was screwed all the way down.

Turned it out half way and noticed some lift....more it went up, more the plow lifted.

The plow lifts slowly, but it holds & Im happy with it. Tomorrows snow storm will test it out.

I learned something new today. Thank you both for your help.


You're welcome. When the hydraulic fluid is cold the plow will lift slowly. As you run it up and down the fluid will heat up and the plow will lift and lower much faster.

#25 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2014 - 08:36 AM

Thanks for that info, what hydro fluid do you use?

#26 bowtiebutler956 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2014 - 08:47 AM

Thanks for that info, what hydro fluid do you use?

 Titus, I've been told to use 15-40 motor oil,like Rotella, as they called for 20-40 from the factory, but its not available. This is what I'm using in my 222. 

 

Matt



#27 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2014 - 09:04 AM

 Titus, I've been told to use 15-40 motor oil,like Rotella, as they called for 20-40 from the factory, but its not available. This is what I'm using in my 222. 

 

Matt

 

I'll ditto what Matt said; Rotella MOTOR OIL is a great brand for both the engine and hydraulic system. There are some out there still that will attempt to convince you that hydraulic fluid or transmission fluid is what your machine should use but they couldn't be more wrong. Unless your tank has been replaced or the tag fell off there should be some instructions right on the tank. I believe the manufacturer recommends the tank be filled to within 2" of the top of the tank.



#28 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2014 - 04:26 PM

Thank you!

 

We got a lot of snow & rain today. Having that plow lift is a life saver! 


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#29 Rock farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2014 - 06:23 PM

I'll ditto what Matt said; Rotella MOTOR OIL is a great brand for both the engine and hydraulic system. There are some out there still that will attempt to convince you that hydraulic fluid or transmission fluid is what your machine should use but they couldn't be more wrong. Unless your tank has been replaced or the tag fell off there should be some instructions right on the tank. I believe the manufacturer recommends the tank be filled to within 2" of the top of the tank.


I think it says six inches of top!
2" would over flow?
I'd double check that! I used a tape measure on mine. Because the cap has no dipstick.

Joe

#30 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2014 - 10:53 PM

I think it says six inches of top!
2" would over flow?
I'd double check that! I used a tape measure on mine. Because the cap has no dipstick.

Joe

 

Joe,

 

I'll be curious to learn a bit more about your tank (size, positioning, etc.). Is it on a Case 444? Here are a few pics from the tank on my '71 Case 444. I've always read (and followed) the practice of 1"-2" below the cap as being the optimal fill line for the hydraulic fluid. Our tanks must be different since as you can see in my pic below the tank itself on my Case is only 6 inches deep.

 

20140214_204429.jpg

 

20140214_204443.jpg

 

20140214_204540.jpg






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